Hi, changed from a 1150gs to a 1200gs 2006, whats a permissable drive backlash , ie on and off throttle you can feel the drive take up, my 1150 wasn't like this , the 1200 has 43,000 miles, is this a sign of rear drive oblivion
2006 r1200gs final drive backlash
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Backlash is huge on the 1200 and something I never really got used to. I can't say for sure that yours is right because I haven't felt it but it probably is OK. More common problem is the wheel bearing side play where you can grab the wheel at 9-3 or 12-6 and feel play.
Mine got to be quite bad, turned out to be the U/J on the shaft was about to let go at the gearbox end, it was truly fucked, Mikeyboy can rebuild these as well as the final drive if it is that.
jogo
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Backlash is not what you need to be concerned about. Check the following on your FD:
- play in the rear wheel (3-9 and 6-12 position)
- check for visible oil leaks
- drop the FD, drain the oil and watch out for any particles in the oil or on the speed sensor
- check the FD input shaft for play
Beside that it might be a good idea to pull the driveshaft while the FD is out of the way and check the U-joints.
If all that is fine, you should stop worrying. Beside that do not pressure wash the FD (some will disagree) and change the oil regularily with correct amount and quality.
If all goes bad, send it to Mikeboy for overhaul
- play in the rear wheel (3-9 and 6-12 position)
- check for visible oil leaks
- drop the FD, drain the oil and watch out for any particles in the oil or on the speed sensor
- check the FD input shaft for play
Beside that it might be a good idea to pull the driveshaft while the FD is out of the way and check the U-joints.
If all that is fine, you should stop worrying. Beside that do not pressure wash the FD (some will disagree) and change the oil regularily with correct amount and quality.
If all goes bad, send it to Mikeboy for overhaul
Thanks everyone, checked for axial movement on the rear , but seems ok, got a feeling its a UJ , when I move the rear wheel while in gear the drive before take up is about 30mm, when the clutch is pulled in there is a clunk, so just going to splatter it apart, then I will get a better look at whats fucked. 
Backlash at the rear wheel will depend on which gear is selected. The lower ratios have more backlash through the drivetrain, first gear feeling horrendous.
Round 2, checked the oil in the drive, bit dirty, when I dropped it to drain I left the plug in slack, noticed oil coming from the rear before I took the plug out, is this a breather its came from ?, what I did feel was slight play in the pinion shaft as the driveshaft enters the diff, any thoughts.
jogo
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From what I know (others might correct me), the small needle bearing on the inner end of the pinion shaft is what often fails in the FD's. Mine had a slight play when I checked it last winter and I sent it for overhaul to Mikeboy. It probably would have gone for some more km, but as I want to keep the bike and did not want trouble in the riding season I did that a preventive maintenance if you like.
If a needle bearing has developed play that you can feel, it will not stop there, how fast it goes from there is a different question.
If a needle bearing has developed play that you can feel, it will not stop there, how fast it goes from there is a different question.
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a small amount of play on the pinion nose bearing can amount to quite a lot of backlash between the meshing gears of the pinion and crown wheel.
when new it is highly unlikely that any play will be felt at all.
the bearing can deteriorate quite fast once the hardened surface wears.
at the age and mileage your bike has id be looking to remove the rear drive,swing arm and drive shaft,primarily to give the shaft a proper check but also to inspect the gearbox output shaft seal and replace if needed.
mike 07786 340692
when new it is highly unlikely that any play will be felt at all.
the bearing can deteriorate quite fast once the hardened surface wears.
at the age and mileage your bike has id be looking to remove the rear drive,swing arm and drive shaft,primarily to give the shaft a proper check but also to inspect the gearbox output shaft seal and replace if needed.
mike 07786 340692
Bendy toy
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Lateral play at the FD input shaft = worn bearings. Talk to Mike or Steptoe.
Clunk could be the UJ but mine has always had enough backlash to clack the FD gears if I'm a bit quick finding the clutch biting point.
Oil leak from speedo sensor = worn O ring.
If you want to do a really good maintenance job, strip the paralever needle rollers and pack with grease.
Coarse vibration at speed through footrests could be a UJ failing.
At 50K I needed a gearbox output oil seal and a new rear UJ, along with an FD rebuild.
The paralever bearings were also goosed. They could have been saved I'd opened and greased them at 15K intervals.
NZRalphy
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All of my gs's have had around 70mm slack the edge of the tread in first gear up on he main stand
Hi, only wear I can see is the pinion on the rear hub, very slight play, UJs all feel good no movement, rear output gearbox seal looks good, , so will pack the drive hub up and send it to mike for refurbub, thanks everyone, very helpful. Only problem I got was the bearing cap on the right side above the brake lever, very tight to get off, tried a home made slide hammer, no chance, made up a heavy plate washer with a hole for the 6mm central hex cap screw, and pulled it against the frame, tight but came out, cheers tam.
Bendy toy
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BMW say to use a slide hammer. I used a flat plate crowbar and piece of scrap aluminium to protect the paint. Plus an old M6 screw of course.
I think I used a 3ft length of stud bar and a hammer, passed through the swingarm to knock mine out when I replaced my swingarm bearings.
Bendy toy
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That's how I got my bearings out of the swing arm. Though I happened to have some 1/2" diameter smooth steel bar.
Ideally measure the gaps between frame and wing arm at each side so you can shim it the same when you rebuild.
The 2008 uses a 17 x 40 x 13.25 taper roller with 2 seals. Don't bother with aftermarket bike brand bearings they usually send the wrong type.
I ended up with 17 x 40 x 12 2RS taper roller bearings with a 1mm shim each side. They're very low cost and so far have done 16,000 miles with no signs of trouble. The original bearings were well shot at 50K miles.
Bendy toy
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Just noticed the Real OEM parts finder shows that SAF-XO is no longer used. Quote -
20 Final-drive gear oil SAF-XO OSP, 1000ML X 33117695240 ENDED
20 BMW Synthetik OSP 1L X 83222365987
I use 75w140 full synthetic Millers or Castrol in gearbox and final drive.
20 Final-drive gear oil SAF-XO OSP, 1000ML X 33117695240 ENDED
20 BMW Synthetik OSP 1L X 83222365987
I use 75w140 full synthetic Millers or Castrol in gearbox and final drive.
I ordered Syntrax 75/90 for mine. but when it gets rebuilt, it will get 70/140
Just need to get a price on a rebuild
i think it's on its way out, i have play in the 6/12 position
Bendy toy
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The wheel bearing can be replaced. But the job costs 1/2 as much as a rebuilt FD which was why I went to Mikey.
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