Ready for my first question yet?

cugsy

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Here goes lads and lasses. First, let me say that I've allowed this weekend to sort out valve clearances, throttle bodies and plugs. So this might seem a little arse about face.
The bike has a Remus can and y piece - no cat or O2 sensor connected. I don't know what else is lurking. I asked the seller about the can and had the bike been tweaked to suit. His answer was to show me a chip in a small case (I assume it's the old eeprom?) and a couple of pages of 1- german and 2- gibberish (translated from german to gibberish) from Wunderlich. When I took the exhaust off to get to the rear shock bush I noticed it was sootier than sooty. The bike is sluggish when cold (and I was told not to warm it up, just get on and ride it) and gets better with 3/4 bars on the temp gauge. Ok so far in the first 4 gears but there's nowt but a fart at 4000rpm trying to overtake - a huge flat spot. Hence the weekend fettling. Trying to accelerate in 5th from 4000rpm is rubbish. I assumed that this 850 had enough torque to rattle me teeth. But, it just runs out of breath unless I welly it through the gears.
Also....still with me?....should I have a relay in the space in the fuse/relay box. I have jumper leads in there and they look home made. I'll have a look tomorrow what they are (or take a pic) - bikes in garage asleep now. The wunderlich sheet shows a variety of arrangements for the jumper leads for different end cans, rpm restriction and whether theres a cat etc. So, you've all been there before and I'm waiting and eager to hear some clean suggestions and advice.

Ta lots John
 
first up, yep, as Steptoe says, model and year will help.
Also pictures of the fuses / relays will help as well.
You mention no O2 Sensor fitted. I wonder where it is or what happened to it.
 
first up, yep, as Steptoe says, model and year will help.
Also pictures of the fuses / relays will help as well.
You mention no O2 Sensor fitted. I wonder where it is or what happened to it.


I'd put money on it being an R850GS. No lambda probe but a co2 pot. After market chip with a y piece, Remus exhaust and a coding plug link.

:D
 
Sorry, thought I'd mentioned those unimportant leedle details senor... 2000/2001 (W reg) 850gs. Got man flu so I'll drag myself to the garage weeping to get those details.
 
I'd put money on it being an R850GS. No lambda probe but a co2 pot. After market chip with a y piece, Remus exhaust and a coding plug link.

:D

Well a year would be a good idea.
As the later bikes had a lambda and seeing as it's got a Y piece and remus the lambda could've been removed as all the Y peices and remus cans o've seen for the 850/110 models haven't the means to fit a lambda . :D

First thing i'd do is fit a standard exhaust system and chip. Then you have somewhere to start from.
People do all sorts of shite to these bikes in the belief it'll make their bike faster and better and just to be "different" as they can't bare the thought of having a standard bike.
Mostly all they do is feck them up and gain nothing.
 
Can you post a picture of the chip in the case please unless your sure its the OEM chip.

Did you get the OEM cat and end can with bike?

If you can get the bike back to standard as much possible, that would be helpful.

Don't forget to check the throttle position sensor on the nearside pot as well.
 
Ok, as far as I know the chip is original. I don't have the original end can....but I don't know if it had a cat or not. I read that most UK ones were cat free..true or not? Its not an import. I could be buying Gordons exhaust or just get one from Motorworks.
Heres a pic of the jumper lead and it looks like 5 and 6 are connected with the free one tucked away. That ties in with the description from Wunderlich for stage 2,after market muffler and without cat/lamda. The bizzarre thing is the flat spot in fifth at 4000rpm and a surge at 2500-3000rpm in 2nd/3rd. It does amaze me that people buy a bike and fiddle with it. Just buy a different bike...
Anyway, let me know if you need more info. The mpg is about 40-45 and I don't cane it - you can't! bmw relay little.jpg


did the pic attach? 5 and 6 connected
 
If I were you I would put the OEM chip back in first. I doubt the end can and y section is the cause of the woes, more likely the chip.
At 40-45 the fuel economy is okay so its not in a bad state of tune.

Roger04RT is done an awful lot of on Cat coding plugs but I dont think any on the R850 so I can't tell you what the default setting is for your bike.
see here http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/coding-plugs-r1100-r1150-decoded.765242/#post-26886395
You could try and source an oem CCP from a dealer. We do know that the CCP does have an effect on running and seems to vary so it is possible that the wunderlich setting doesnt suit your bike....just a thought have they actually installed the wunderlich chip? perhaps pop the ECU open and see whats in there.
 
Do I deduce from Rogers thread and other opinions that the original chip is best? If so, should there be a proper relay in there instead of the jumper leads? And have any of you used the wunderlich tuning chip?
 
Just had a quick fiddle with the air screw on the throttle bodies. I was looking for the difference between them - LHS is less than one turn fully closed and RHS less than 1/4 turn fully closed. I'm due to balance them but wondered if those settings seemed a bit extreme..
 
Do I deduce from Rogers thread and other opinions that the original chip is best? If so, should there be a proper relay in there instead of the jumper leads? And have any of you used the wunderlich tuning chip?

The weird reality with CCP's is as yet there is no definative list of what year bikes with what specs with what engines from what countries have what CCP settings.
So in that regard its a little bit of suck it and see or stick to OEM.

You dont know how well that chip has been programmed and what it was programmed for. For example that chip could be for an 1100 or an 1150 and put in ignorance...you just dont know....


Just had a quick fiddle with the air screw on the throttle bodies. I was looking for the difference between them - LHS is less than one turn fully closed and RHS less than 1/4 turn fully closed. I'm due to balance them but wondered if those settings seemed a bit extreme..

Thats normal. There is a procedure for the 850/1100 engines called zero-zero do read this with care.

The BBS screws set your idle speed and balance with the throttle cables fully loose, at around 2-3k or more you then set the throttle balance with the cables.

It helps to take the Big Brass Screws (BBS) right out and clean them they get gunged up.

There is a tweek you can do on the 850/1100 mototronic whereby you can set the throttle postion sensor to stock then slightly advance it, this has the effect of richening the mixture...worth while free tweek.
again this procedure is documented online and shown on youtube.
 
I'm getting the feeling 'if it ain't broke...'. Mine runs rich anyway judging by the sooty exhaust. I might take it for a good run out saturday. Funny thing is that Motorworks still have that wunderlich tuning chip on their site. Small steps then. Clearances first
 
Small steps then. Clearances first and throttle balance

Corrected for you.

BTW, there is document online which details doing the gaps in pairs 2xinlet then 2xexhaust concurently using 2 feeler gauges. You are after equality in each pair of ports.

See where you are once you have done the basics. But flatspots isnt normally an issue with the 850/1100 engine, I found it a much nicer engine that the 1150 THB. especially once the TPS was tweeked but my 1100 had an OEM chip and exhaust system.
 
Do I deduce from Rogers thread and other opinions that the original chip is best? If so, should there be a proper relay in there instead of the jumper leads?

This is what's inside a BMW cat code plug, or a "relay" as you call it.

A jumper lead in a pretty box that sells for silly money.





 
This is what's inside a BMW cat code plug, or a "relay" as you call it.

The "magic" is knowing which pretty box you need though. I agree it can be fabricated up for pence but by atleast enquiring with a dealer he might be able to determine which colour CCP if any is needed if reverting to an OEM chip. I would speculate that the current jumper will be selecting a specific ignition and fuelling map on the wunderlich chip.
 
This is what's inside a BMW cat code plug, or a "relay" as you call it.

A jumper lead in a pretty box that sells for silly money.






Just a quick one steptoe; on a 95 GS 1100 ; if you put a y piece on , and a can; would you have to alter the relay, and would a quick plug chop be enough to give you an idea?
 
So...if I get the clearances, throttle bodies sorted and original exhaust /chip fitted what are my options for that little yellow relay? Whats the original bridging if no relay exists (or costs too much). Basically, what's standard for a 17 year old 850gs? easy peasy:p
 


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