R1150GS Rear Wheel Play

mattgirv

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Hey all, I recently picked up a 2003 R1150GS with only 29,000 miles on the clock. Seems pretty sweet overall, and no major issues, but giving it a proper checkover led to a couple of niggles.

I have a very small, about 1mm, amount of play at the 3 to 9 position on the rear wheel. This play disappears with the rear brake actuated so I'm guessing it's likely to be an issue with the final drive bearing? I had a quick look at the final drive and pivot pin whilst I was giving it a proper look over and there were flecks of fine silver metal inside the pivot pin bolt, which seemed really odd. No idea if someone had either done a half-arsed job with it previously or tried to get it off and shredded something inside of it. I cleaned it out and it looked okay, but this is the first GS I've owned so I'm clueless of the quirks and inner workings.

Anyway, can anyone recommend someone honest to look this over in the Kent or London area? I don't really have the tools or confidence pulling this bike apart having just bought it, and would much rather someone honest had a look over it and diagnosed the play and make sure I didn't buy a death trap. :D
 
Pivot pin? Not 100% clear of what you mean?

If you've got rear wheel play while the rear brake is applied, then more likely is the paralever bearings that need attention/adjustment. Not a big job if you're OK with the spanners.

For the FD. drain it and check the fluid. While you're at it, do the gear box fluid as well. You'll some have a good measure of how things are
 
Slipperyeel said:
Pivot pin? Not 100% clear of what you mean?
Click to expand...

Sorry, my mistake. I mean the 12mm hex bolt with locking nut that joins the swingarm and the final drive unit (no. 7/8 on the microfische). I ended up pulling a clump of shredded silver bits out of there when I was looking over things, I have no idea whether it was just from someone mashing their tools to bits or from the bolt itself.

First thing I did when I got back with it was drain the FD and Gearbox oils, I didn't see anything alarming but according to the previous owner it was changed less than 1000 miles ago so I guess I will take that diagnosis with a grain of salt. :rolleyes:
 
Those Paralever bolts (the big allen bolt) are made of aluminium alloy, so not difficult to mash up if you're a bit ham fisted (not you, I mean whoever was in there last). Maybe the previous owner tried, unsuccessfully, to take up the slack play you've found?

Good news about the fluids looking good though .

It's pointing to those Paralever bearings...rather than the FD
 
Depending on where you are in Kent, Steptoe might be a bit of a slog to get to (easy enough access via A3, but it is SW London). Another alternative, who's very good, is Brian Giles BMW in Pembury, Kent.
 
mattgirv said:
Hey all, I recently picked up a 2003 R1150GS with only 29,000 miles on the clock. Seems pretty sweet overall, and no major issues, but giving it a proper checkover led to a couple of niggles.

I have a very small, about 1mm, amount of play at the 3 to 9 position on the rear wheel. This play disappears with the rear brake actuated so I'm guessing it's likely to be an issue with the final drive bearing?
Click to expand...


Correct diagnosis.
A lot of people forget how to differentiate between paralever bearing and final drive bearing play. By locking the rear wheel to the final drive casing using the rear brake. Any play remaining is likely to be paralever bearings. In your case the play disappeared so the likelyhood is your final drive bearing is worn.

Having said that, it is low mileage to expect final drive bearing play, I'm wondering if the bearing pre-load set at factory is not correct.

mattgirv said:
I had a quick look at the final drive and pivot pin whilst I was giving it a proper look over and there were flecks of fine silver metal inside the pivot pin bolt, which seemed really odd. No idea if someone had either done a half-arsed job with it previously or tried to get it off and shredded something inside of it. I cleaned it out and it looked okay, but this is the first GS I've owned so I'm clueless of the quirks and inner workings.
Click to expand...

You are right to be cautious. The pivot pins are secured at manufacture by loctite 1701 which is strong stuff, and needs the application of heat to soften it before the pivot pins can be undone. There is a danger of stripping the threads if any attempt is made to loosen the pivot pins before softening the loctite. Swarf around that area could point to some form of thread damage. As you have no idea how the bike was previously serviced, it's worth getting it checked by a professional.
 
Ian J Hartley said:
Correct diagnosis.
A lot of people forget how to differentiate between paralever bearing and final drive bearing play. By locking the rear wheel to the final drive casing using the rear brake. Any play remaining is likely to be paralever bearings. In your case the play disappeared so the likelyhood is your final drive bearing is worn.

Having said that, it is low mileage to expect final drive bearing play, I'm wondering if the bearing pre-load set at factory is not correct.


You are right to be cautious. The pivot pins are secured at manufacture by loctite 1701 which is strong stuff, and needs the application of heat to soften it before the pivot pins can be undone. There is a danger of stripping the threads if any attempt is made to loosen the pivot pins before softening the loctite. Swarf around that area could point to some form of thread damage. As you have no idea how the bike was previously serviced, it's worth getting it checked by a professional.
Click to expand...
This was my mistake, I went out earlier and wedged something on the brake to properly get at the wheel, and the play does still exist. I was doing a half arsed check last time, and was leaning down with my foot on the brake so I missed it.

Either way, I agree with being cautious around that pivot pin. Interestingly, the mess was actually inside the bolt itself, that's why I found it so strange. I stuck a 12mm hex in there to make sure the fit was still snug and it seemed okay so hopefully it was someone just destroying a cheap hex bit or something. I'm going to try and get a heat gun on it tomorrow, loosen it off and see if I can take the play out. I'm not going to force it though and if it doesn't let go without a fuss, I'm taking it to a pro. :thumb2
 
I stand corrected. I misread (well, I read to quickly) that the play disappeared when you applied the rear brake.

So Ian is correct

But if you now reckon it is the paralever after all, then it's the inboard locking ring and nut you'll need to adjust, so it's s wheel off job. And it takes a lot more heat than you might expect.

Apologies if I've misread again and that's the side you were referring to!
 
Doubt it personally, at least not without sitting there for absolutely ages. I'm going to try with a heat gun (two modes, 300C/600C) but even then I'm not holding out too much hope. I have enough room to get it in there and not burn anything else, but if I need more heat with a torch or whatever, I wouldn't risk it without stripping everything around it.
 
I used a hot air gun. You should be fine with that. But as said, give it a lot longer than you might expect. You might smell the thread lock compound which will be a sign you're close.
 
Slipperyeel said:
I used a hot air gun. You should be fine with that. But as said, give it a lot longer than you might expect. You might smell the thread lock compound which will be a sign you're close.
Click to expand...

Took me about 20minutes with a hot air gun i think. Clamp the gun handle somehow if you can or stack woods to point close enough to the centre of bolt. A sign to know when is enough, which i learnt (and enjoyed doing it) is to give a spit on the bolt, if it sizzles, it is time.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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