Twincam front wheel removal"

MattW · May 26, 2017

Ok - numpty question...

Getting new tyres fitted to my GSA in advance of my hols in June.
I've never had the front wheel off my 1200 (although had my 1100 in bits regularly). Is it necessary to remove the front calipers when dropping the front wheel out? I've not got round to buying a manual (I know - shoot me)...

I've also not got the correct spindle tool but a trip to Halfords will sort that (what is it with the on-bike tool kits? The old 1100’s was much better. Bah, grumble etc...

).

Delboy777 · May 26, 2017

Yes you need to remove and tie them up out of the way with a bungie or similar.

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Tractors are go · May 26, 2017

Yes, rock them back/forward against disc to give you clearance to remove calipers, support with bungy cord or similar.

There is also a pinch bolt on right fork, then large hex key to unscrew spindle. It shows you sequence in owners manual, plus torque settings.

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MattW · May 26, 2017

Thanks chaps :thumb2

unibar · May 26, 2017

I'm about to do the same, all in owners manual? No mention of greasing thougg, would it be good practice to do so?

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comberjohn · May 26, 2017

MattW said:
Ok - numpty question...

Getting new tyres fitted to my GSA in advance of my hols in June.
I've never had the front wheel off my 1200 (although had my 1100 in bits regularly). Is it necessary to remove the front calipers when dropping the front wheel out? I've not got round to buying a manual (I know - shoot me)...

I've also not got the correct spindle tool but a trip to Halfords will sort that (what is it with the on-bike tool kits? The old 1100’s was much better. Bah, grumble etc... ).

I have the spindle removing wotsit now but first time I removed it I was able to use one of those cheapo box spanners that most of us have lying around. Fitted in perfectly.
Be careful with the ABS sensor when removing and make sure it's fully home when you refit it or it will bring up a fault. Don't ask how I know. :banghead:

Tractors are go · May 26, 2017

Whilst training as an engineer (a proper one) we were always taught torque setting's are dry.

However, in the real world, at sea, you used appropriate grease.

I would use either a LM or acf50 grease on spindle, but caliper and pinch bolts dry.

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Alan R · May 26, 2017

unibar said:
I'm about to do the same, all in owners manual? No mention of greasing thougg, would it be good practice to do so?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

No, don't grease the calipers! Yes grease the spindle but not the spindle threads. First thing to do is remove the abs sensor and tie it out of the way. Put a big chunk of yellow tape on it to remind you how important and fragile it is. The sensor clearance to the timing ring is about one mm and the disk will shear it as you remove the wheel if you forget to remove it. Putting the sensor back is the very last job to be done after replacing the wheel and calipers. The torque setting for the small locating screw is hand tight only, with a tiny dab of loctite on it.
Alan R

MattW · May 26, 2017

comberjohn said:
I have the spindle removing wotsit now but first time I removed it I was able to use one of those cheapo box spanners that most of us have lying around. Fitted in perfectly.
Be careful with the ABS sensor when removing and make sure it's fully home when you refit it or it will bring up a fault. Don't ask how I know.

Yeah l I tried my box spanners - none fitted

ABS sensor? When you say fully home are you meaning the wheel or the sensor?
Ta

MattW · May 26, 2017

Alan R said:
No, don't grease the calipers! Yes grease the spindle but not the spindle threads. First thing to do is remove the abs sensor and tie it out of the way. Put a big chunk of yellow tape on it to remind you how important and fragile it is. The sensor clearance to the timing ring is about one mm and the disk will shear it as you remove the wheel if you forget to remove it. Putting the sensor back is the very last job to be done after replacing the wheel and calipers. The torque setting for the small locating screw is hand tight only, with a tiny dab of loctite on it.
Alan R

Great - thanks Alan :thumb2

comberjohn · May 26, 2017

MattW said:
Yeah l I tried my box spanners - none fitted

ABS sensor? When you say fully home are you meaning the wheel or the sensor?
Ta

The sensor. If it's not completely in, the clearance to the ABS ring can be too great and bring up a fault. You're inclined to get a bit of corrosion in the hole where it sits and it can feel like it's all the way home.

Alan R · May 26, 2017

Tractors are go said:
Whilst training as an engineer (a proper one) we were always taught torque setting's are dry.

However, in the real world, at sea, you used appropriate grease.

I would use either a LM or acf50 grease on spindle, but caliper and pinch bolts dry.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

I understand the engineering wisdom of dry torqued caliper bolts, but I nevertheless loctight mine for one simple reason: In 1977 I was riding my Suzuki GT 380 through the center of town doing about 25 mph and put on the front brake only to hear a loud crack and feel a complete loss of braking. The caliper, mounted on the leading face of the fork slider had snapped the top mount off the slider. The bottom bolt had come loose and fallen out. So, I loctight caliper bolts and enjoy peace of mind!
Alan R

MattW · May 26, 2017

comberjohn said:
The sensor. If it's not completely in, the clearance to the ABS ring can be too great and bring up a fault. You're inclined to get a bit of corrosion in the hole where it sits and it can feel like it's all the way home.

Great - thanks :thumb2

Alan R said:
I understand the engineering wisdom of dry torqued caliper bolts, but I nevertheless loctight mine for one simple reason: In 1977 I was riding my Suzuki GT 380 through the center of town doing about 25 mph and put on the front brake only to hear a loud crack and feel a complete loss of braking. The caliper, mounted on the leading face of the fork slider had snapped the top mount off the slider. The bottom bolt had come loose and fallen out. So, I loctight caliper bolts and enjoy peace of mind!
Alan R

Yep - I'm with you. I usually blue loctite brake fasteners - only has a minimal effect on torque settings and prevents corrosion.

Tractors are go · May 26, 2017

Whatever works for you !

You know they're thread locked and will take that into account.

Often, the incorrect grease is used ie coppaslip with everything.

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MattW · May 26, 2017

Tractors are go said:
Whatever works for you !

You know they're thread locked and will take that into account.

Often, the incorrect grease is used ie coppaslip with everything.

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Can't stand Coppaslip - I usually use Duralac if I'm concerned about corrosion.

Alan R · May 26, 2017

Tractors are go said:
Whatever works for you !

You know they're thread locked and will take that into account.

Often, the incorrect grease is used ie coppaslip with everything.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

That's a good point, I do my own servicing and no one touches my brakes but me. I'd never make any money at it as it's a labour of love and everything get cleaned meticulously as I strip and rebuild. I don't want an apprentice learning his trade against a clock on my bike. There is nothing better than riding a bike that you know is 'right' because you can remember doing it.
AlanR

Delboy777 · May 27, 2017

MattW said:
Can't stand Coppaslip - I usually use Duralac if I'm concerned about corrosion.

Funny that, I use copper grease on every single bolt i remove before its replaced. Never in all my years of doing it have i ever had a bolt come loose, or seize. Each to his own eh ?

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MattW · May 27, 2017

Delboy777 said:
Each to his own eh ?

Indeed.
I could say just the same about Duralac. We learn from our experiences. My experience was mainly from taking sea going boats to bits. We all use use what we know works.

Delboy777 · May 27, 2017

MattW said:
Indeed.
I could say just the same about Duralac. We learn from our experiences. My experience was mainly from taking sea going boats to bits. We all use use what we know works.

Yup i too agree, my experience tells me coppaslip is good therefore i use it. Not used much else on bolts

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Santa-2512 · May 27, 2017

MattW said:
Indeed.
I could say just the same about Duralac. We learn from our experiences. My experience was mainly from taking sea going boats to bits. We all use use what we know works.

But then again you usually have a sodding great sacrificial anode bolted somwhere on the hull

Another one for coppaslip, unless specified otherwise.

Twincam front wheel removal"

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