ABS and Servo removal

husqvarnapete

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I am pretty good with the spanners and fancy having a go at the removal myself,
Has anyone got a what how when where instructions of what needs to be done.
Sorry if this has been posted before.
 
Try a google search,

I'm sure one has been done on there

As to piping / routing, look at real OEM for the pipe differences

Mart
 
Mate its not complicated

Number repipe the brakes front master cylinder to Front brakes

Rear to Rear

When you have removed the Servo unit

CAREFULLY remove the Electronics box off the side of the unit and seal it up

I used old number plate silicone sealer and a couple of bolts

Plug it back into the loom and secure it back to the bike with a dod of rubber mat and cable ties (Firm but not rock solid)

Split the Instrument panel and black out the LED's

JOb Done (Well after you bleed the brakes it will be! )

# HINT I suggest changing rear pads to Ferodo platinum They are a bit softer than the HH grade and have more feel

# HINT IF you do NOT cut the plugs off that connect the Electronics box to the main unit, it could be reconnected to a replacement unit should one become available in the future ??
 
Bloody Hell that's expensive :eek:

I have ordered these parts from Motorworks:

BRA95966 Brake pipe
BRA73768 Adaptor
BRA50965A Splitter

for doing my Servosectomy and I thought they were expensive at about £80.

But looks like it's all going to be straight forward when they arrive. I'll post pictures of the work I do once the bits arrive if it helps?

Also that unit above doesn't look like it will save too much work either - you still have to get the old unit out, split the electronics etc.
 
Hunda67 said:
Bloody Hell that's expensive :eek:

I have ordered these parts from Motorworks:

BRA95966 Brake pipe
BRA73768 Adaptor
BRA50965A Splitter

for doing my Servosectomy and I thought they were expensive at about £80.

But looks like it's all going to be straight forward when they arrive. I'll post pictures of the work I do once the bits arrive if it helps?

Also that unit above doesn't look like it will save too much work either - you still have to get the old unit out, split the electronics etc.
Click to expand...

You only need the rear solid non abs brake pipe. About £25 from BMW. The front brake you can rotate the splitter and attach both brake lines to one channel. Or buy 25mtrs of copper brake pipe and a brake pipe flaring tool ( £15 for both) and make your own front brake line by-pass link .
 
I'm confused now :confused:

I've just gone out and looked at the bike again and if I follow you all correctly:

I need this:

which is coming from motorworks to link out the rear brake.

At the front the brake line is split on top of the front mudguard:

and that comes from here (where the lower connection goes to splitter and upper connection goes to handlebar):


I have this coming from motorworks which I assume just links the above out:


I assume that's all I need to do with brake lines?

Motorworks also said I needed this:

which motorworks call an ABS brake pipe link adaptor. I don't see where this goes or what it is for or am I missing something?
 
how much is a second hand working pump worth. I might remove mine and sell it to fund a gearbox fix.
 
So got it sussed now that Motorwork bits have arrived:

Need this to link out front brakes:

BRA50965A at £12.90 from Motorworks.

Need this to link out back brake:

BRA95966 at £28.02 from Motorworks.

Didn't need the other part they said I needed for my bike (2006GSA) so have returned to for a refund meaning I only need £41 worth of parts for the Servoectomy and not the £80 I originally mentioned.

Will fit the parts this week and then hopefully no more brake problems :D
 
:beerjug:ok so I've done the servo removal very easy job as been said on here ,
but the brake lights are not working, so I take it that I have to put the electrics back on?
how do I unscrew the electrics from the servo what kind of tool is this I need ?

Also the two front pipes join together on the top fitting attached to the frame,
I removed the lower joint with a hack saw works fine and don't need another piece of pipe to join.
In time I am going to get a pipe made so that its all one pipe no joins.
Front brake bled up and tested and I think that the braking is better than before .
 
husqvarnapete said:
:beerjug:ok so I've done the servo removal very easy job as been said on here ,
but the brake lights are not working, so I take it that I have to put the electrics back on?
how do I unscrew the electrics from the servo what kind of tool is this I need ?

Also the two front pipes join together on the top fitting attached to the frame,
I removed the lower joint with a hack saw works fine and don't need another piece of pipe to join.
In time I am going to get a pipe made so that its all one pipe no joins.
Front brake bled up and tested and I think that the braking is better than before .
Click to expand...

As I understand it, the electrics have to be retained.
 
The electronic module needs to be split from the abs unit.

The two large connectors plug back into the electronic module.

this retains all electronic functions - speedo etc..

The downside is it throws an ABS fault everytime you run the bike, as it cannot complete the abs self testing etc
 
Santa-2512 said:
The electronic module needs to be split from the abs unit.

The two large connectors plug back into the electronic module.

this retains all electronic functions - speedo etc..

The downside is it throws an ABS fault everytime you run the bike, as it cannot complete the abs self testing etc
Click to expand...

I wonder if it's possible to spoof the self test. Something along the lines of resistors to emulate the ABS motor sensors (maybe).
 
Canbus - in short no .

But ... And i havent been able to verify

The ABS bikes have A ZFE BASIC module fitted -

Non ABS bikes have a ZFE LOW module fitted

Pin 32 if i recall is the data line from the ABS

So So ZFE basic is looking for a signal from the ABS module on pin 32 (remember canbus - transmitter and reciever in each CAN enabled module)

When ZFE basic gets an error signal it sends the error message round the bus.

Now if the ZFE low was fitted, its not looking for a data feed on pin 32, as pin 32 is empty ... so it dosent get an error flag from the ABS, and therefore dosent send an error message on .

that might work.

however as i doint have a ZFE low, i cant test it
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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