Roadlok issues

Zoton · Apr 3, 2019

As there is no instructions for the roadlock, you don't have to take the bracket off the caliper to remove the barrel .I did here but just in case as its not obvious for the non mechanically minded :blagblah

To remove the lock
barrel (lock cylinder):
1. Turn the key to the fully unlocked position.

2. Insert a small allen key into the crosshole on the lock body, and press
it into the deadbolt, which will force the deadbolt to push inside the
lock cylinder.

3. Pull on the key, and the entire lock cylinder should slide out of the lock
body.

4. Clean and replace.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/45423127055/in/dateposted/" title="20181216_091214"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4865/45423127055_7c724591db_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091214"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Just alen key for removal

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/46335711571/in/photostream/" title="20181216_091158"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4860/46335711571_676d29840a_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091158"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/46285201532/in/photostream/" title="20181216_091240"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4814/46285201532_905e4e0dac_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091240"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

ShakeyBMW · Apr 3, 2019

The face of my lock barrel has gone black! Roadlock say they’ve never hear of this before (I can’t believe I’m the only one - anyway, I quite like it).

My lock became hard to use too so I removed it from the bike, sprayed the lock with brake cleaner, gave it an oil bath, repeated the rinse, dried it, lightly oiled it and replaced.

Previous advice about graphite dusting worked to a point but the first spraying came out very black!

Thanks for your post Zoton, it’ll be a lot easier in future although I do put a disc of Helicopter tape over the wee hole to stop crud ingress which I’ll obviously need to remove first.

There’s no substitute for regular, preventive maintenance.

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

Zoton said:
As there is no instructions for the roadlock, you don't have to take the bracket off the caliper to remove the barrel .I did here but just in case as its not obvious for the non mechanically minded

To remove the lock
barrel (lock cylinder):
1. Turn the key to the fully unlocked position.

2. Insert a small allen key into the crosshole on the lock body, and press
it into the deadbolt, which will force the deadbolt to push inside the
lock cylinder.

3. Pull on the key, and the entire lock cylinder should slide out of the lock
body.

4. Clean and replace.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/45423127055/in/dateposted/" title="20181216_091214"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4865/45423127055_7c724591db_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091214"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Just alen key for removal

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/46335711571/in/photostream/" title="20181216_091158"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4860/46335711571_676d29840a_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091158"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

No you don't understand what happened here.

The pin you are pushing back in your pictures with the Allen key, had jammed and wouldn't move. So you can't remove anything to get access to it.

You can't release the plastic dust guard, or the locking pin (whichever was in situ at the time).

You can turn the lock barrel with the keys inserted (full lock rotation left and right), but that pin does not move - it's jammed. Thus locking the whole unit to your bike !!

In normal operation, when you turn the key in the barrel, it retracts that pin so the dust guard or locking pin can be removed. If it corrodes over a couple of weeks that pin jams :nenau

As it did with mine. Luckily I only had the dust guard in situ, and was able to unbolt the whole unit without further damage.

But even then, you have NO ACCESS to that jammed pin to release it... unless you drill out the dust guard (if you were lucky enough to only have the plastic dust guard inserted)

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

Smogbob said:
As has been said already, give it a clean and lube every now and again......

I did Shaun. Not after every single ride but I did clean it with water and compressed air.

I never used any lubricant as it was suggested by Roadlok not to.

But I seriously think during winter you should take it out and give it a good clean. Especially if there are any signs of rust in the barrel.

Problem is it is very exposed where it sits to all the crap being thrown up on the bike.

Really needs a neoprene (or rubber innertube) cover for the actual lock mechanism, or something similar during winter use to keep the crap off it.

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

I just had an idea.....

I've cut up an old inner-tube from my Africa Twin front wheel (had a puncture last week).

It's stretchy but robust.

Use that to cover the lock while it's on the bike in winter and when washing it.

Maybe?? :nenau

Zoton · Apr 3, 2019

Warlord said:
No you don't understand what happened here.

The pin you are pushing back in your pictures with the Allen key, had jammed and wouldn't move. So you can't remove anything to get access to it.

You can't release the plastic dust guard, or the locking pin (whichever was in situ at the time).

You can turn the lock barrel with the keys inserted (full lock rotation left and right), but that pin does not move - it's jammed. Thus locking the whole unit to your bike !!

In normal operation, when you turn the key in the barrel, it retracts that pin so the dust guard or locking pin can be removed. If it corrodes over a couple of weeks that pin jams

As it did with mine. Luckily I only had the dust guard in situ, and was able to unbolt the whole unit without further damage.

But even then, you have NO ACCESS to that jammed pin to release it... unless you drill out the dust guard (if you were lucky enough to only have the plastic dust guard inserted)

I can assure you I understand. the original post asked for maintenance suggestions to which I have replied with one.

Deleted account 211025001 · Apr 3, 2019

Zoton said:
I can assure you I understand. the original post asked for maintenance suggestions to which I have replied with one.

You beat me to it :thumb2

Warlord stop, as ever, over complicating shit. Just give it an occasional clean/lube and it'll be fine.

Andres

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

Oh... ok

Andy B · Apr 3, 2019

Warlord said:
I just had an idea.....

I've cut up an old inner-tube from my Africa Twin front wheel (had a puncture last week).

It's stretchy but robust.

Use that to cover the lock while it's on the bike in winter and when washing it.

Maybe??

That makes a lot of sense.

Roadlock Mk2 needs a fixed rubber or plastic cover for protection when not in use.

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

Andy B said:
That makes a lot of sense.

Roadlock Mk2 needs a fixed rubber or plastic cover for protection when not in use.

The irony is, that's what the plastic guard is supposed to do.... but they forgot about protecting the actual key barrel

ShakeyBMW · Apr 3, 2019

Have fun fitting the bit of inner tube when the Roadlok is mounted on the bike

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

ShakeyBMW said:
Have fun fitting the bit of inner tube when the Roadlok is mounted on the bike

indeed

Deleted account 191119001 · Apr 3, 2019

Outtomunch said:
You beat me to it

Warlord stop, as ever, over complicating shit. Just give it an occasional clean/lube and it'll be fine.

Andres

Would that ACF50 stuff I have, and never used yet, be handy, at the moment, I have just been cleaning it with a rag and a smidgeon of wd40, making sure none of it gets near the disc.

Deleted account 191119001 · Apr 3, 2019

Zoton said:
As there is no instructions for the roadlock, you don't have to take the bracket off the caliper to remove the barrel .I did here but just in case as its not obvious for the non mechanically minded

To remove the lock
barrel (lock cylinder):
1. Turn the key to the fully unlocked position.

2. Insert a small allen key into the crosshole on the lock body, and press
it into the deadbolt, which will force the deadbolt to push inside the
lock cylinder.

3. Pull on the key, and the entire lock cylinder should slide out of the lock
body.

4. Clean and replace.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/45423127055/in/dateposted/" title="20181216_091214"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4865/45423127055_7c724591db_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091214"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Just alen key for removal

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/46335711571/in/photostream/" title="20181216_091158"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4860/46335711571_676d29840a_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091158"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/123588855@N08/46285201532/in/photostream/" title="20181216_091240"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4814/46285201532_905e4e0dac_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20181216_091240"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Thanks for that tip, I might try and see if I can come up with something that will protect the barrel, with the 3d printer.

Deleted account 211025001 · Apr 3, 2019

Smogbob said:
Would that ACF50 stuff I have, and never used yet, be handy, at the moment, I have just been cleaning it with a rag and a smidgeon of wd40, making sure none of it gets near the disc.

I'm not keen on using anything greasy or with a residue that can attract dirt on locks so if it was me, no I'd not use it. The stuff I mentioned in my post at the beginning of this thread does the job perfectly.

Andres

Deleted account 191119001 · Apr 3, 2019

Outtomunch said:
I'm not keen on using anything greasy or with a residue that can attract dirt on locks so if it was me, no I'd not use it. The stuff I mentioned in my post at the beginning of this thread does the job perfectly.

Andres

I should have read the whole thread again... :blast

ta for that makes sense

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

Outtomunch said:
Mine used to get clagged up but since giving it a squirt with this every few weeks I've had no issues

Andres

Ok thanks Andres.

Just bought some of this, give it all another chance once fitted.

Zoton · Apr 3, 2019

Out of interest a new barrel lock is £23 + £5 for new mounting bolts KTM specific from the states (purchased a new one in December)

Warlord · Apr 3, 2019

I sent off my inner-tube pictures to Ian at Roadlok. He thought it was a good idea as well.

Watch this space

Deleted account 191119001 · Apr 3, 2019

Warlord said:
I sent off my inner-tube pictures to Ian at Roadlok. He thought it was a good idea as well.

Watch this space

Inner tube cut in half, and stitched to some velcro, so you can remove at will, without taking Roadlok off, also not to thick as to not rub on the top of the disc.......... :rob

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