Outex tubeless conversion

Sooty09

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The Outex spoke sealing method seems to be the cost effective route to tubles conversions, however I'm not sure how an insurance company would see things in the event of an accident. I am wondering if it's possible to fit the sealing rim tape and fit a tube in a tubeless tyre (with a rubber sealing gasket under the valve) after a puncture the air will leak out of the tube but be retained in the tyre making an emergency repair easier. Any thoughts?
 
Why not write to your insurance company and see what they say about it?
 
If what you are doing is approved for road use you shouldn't have any problems. However there are loads of horror stories of people telling their insurance company's and getting ridiculous quotes. I had a 800gsa and fancied tubeless. Of course the tyers are tubeless but the rims aren't. I sealed up the spokes with clear sicoline and taped with a very heavy sticky tape called denso. I finished with a few layers of duck tape used a screw in valve with threads on the body so I could make a air tight seal. The back wheel worked a treat and stayed up. The front was less successful. I could not get the front wheel to become airtight. Also there is a difference in the rims. The back rim has a safety bump running around each edge which tends to keep the tyer seated on the bead whare as the front did not. While it worked on the back I wouldn't chance the front. In my opinion it was the only downside on the 800. I think the new replacement model has tubeless rims. JJH
 
What's wrong with tubes? If it's only to ease puncture repair, it seems a lot of effort and risk to go to. Decent set of tubes (heavy duty if needed) and quality tyres should mean a puncture us extremely unlikely.

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What's wrong with tubes? If it's only to ease puncture repair, it seems a lot of effort and risk to go to. Decent set of tubes (heavy duty if needed) and quality tyres should mean a puncture us extremely unlikely.

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Unfortunately that was not my experience. 4 punctures in 2 years. JJH
 
On. Used mostly for comuteing. Total pain. I've had a fair few punctures in my time and of course tubeless is a breeze to fix on the roadside. Maby it's just me getting old because punctures years ago were a simple fix sometimes without even removing the wheel of course tyers were smaller on the 125s 175s and 250s of the 70s and early 80s. I cannot understand why BMW manufacturer bikes that require tubes in this day and age. JJH
 
I cannot understand why BMW manufacturer bikes that require tubes in this day and age. JJH[/QUOTE]

Me neither..
the AA do a decent recovery service for unlucky riders though..
 
Because it was designed for off road use where you may need to lower pressures, and if you rip a tyre on rocks you can easily bung a new tube in and ride on.
The 650 cast wheels were the ones designed for on road use.

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Because it was designed for off road use where you may need to lower pressures, and if you rip a tyre on rocks you can easily bung a new tube in and ride on.
The 650 cast wheels were the ones designed for on road use.

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Yes but there is nothing to stop you putting a tube in. If it's a tubeless you have that option. The way it is you must use a tube. How come the new one has tubeless tims? JJH
 
A tubeless tim!? :-D
Someone in marketing figured it was time to switch to tubeless as most bikes never get further than the verge?

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Well I don't know if it was marketing or finance. How long ago was the R100gs available with tubeless spoked wheels? 30 years? JJH
 
It always struck me as daft too. Mind you, the rims are very soft and easily damaged, so I suspect they were cheap and outsourced rather than expensively built in house. Bit like the chain and wheel bearings!

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What's wrong with tubes? If it's only to ease puncture repair, it seems a lot of effort and risk to go to. Decent set of tubes (heavy duty if needed) and quality tyres should mean a puncture us extremely unlikely.

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A decent set of tyres are fitted, the local tyre specialist told me heavy duty tubes are for off road only and are only good at preventing compression punctures at low pressures, makes no difference on a road bike. Unlikely or not punctures happen, luckily when I punctured my rear a few weeks ago I managed to ride a few wiles into Wrexham and sat in a McDonnalds for 4 hours until rescue came. I realised that a similar event on a wintry evening in a more remote area could leave my freezing to death. A few years ago this almost happened, my friends 1200GS broke down and BMW assist told us we must stay with the bike, after two hours the main group of us were so cold we had to carry on leaving one poor soul with all our extra cloths in the freezing drizzle for another 2 hours. I'm to old for all this crap and if I could limp home or to a warmer safer environment by adding a bit of air I would. I cannot imagine these days anybody not on a massive round the world tour getting a set of tyre levers out and fixing a puncture at the side of the road. Its not only hard work but the bike falls off its stand if you remove the front wheel, you need to take the callipers off so make sure you have all the torx drivers, don't forget the ABS sensors etc and don't loose the spacer in the dark. Then make sure you don't cause lots of scratches and dings in the very expensive soft rims.
Finally many off road bikes now are running tubeless tyres, most trails bikes are tubeless, off roaders in the USA and some here are fitting the sealing rim tapes, tire balls or the tubeliss conversion. Stans no tubes have been used on mountain bikes and road bikes for years, my Cube MB is tubeless ready and this will be the bicycle norm in a few years.
 
Don't need to take the wheel off to fix a puncture on a tube. Just pop one side off the rim and hook the tube out. 5 minutes to patch, 5 to refit the tyre on the rim. Pumping it up depends how fit (or smart!) you are.

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Incidentally, I always travel with a puncture repair kit for exactly those reasons. Must have brought me luck as in 150,000 miles of biking I've only ever had two punctures. And that includes rides round Morocco, much of Europe and the USA.

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Odd that BMW assist, the AA and the RAC find it more cost effective to transport a bike 150 miles home than take 10 minutes to repair it.
 
Don't need to take the wheel off to fix a puncture on a tube. Just pop one side off the rim and hook the tube out. 5 minutes to patch, 5 to refit the tyre on the rim. Pumping it up depends how fit (or smart!) you are.

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Did it like that years ago. Might manage it on the front of a gs800 but no way on the back. Mending a tubeless is soo much simpler. Actually in most cases leaving the nail or whatever in and pumping it up will usually get you home. That has been my experiences. My 1200 gsa had a small nail in it for a month before I changed the tyer. Loosing 3 or 4 psi a week it wasn't worth fixing. Try doing that with a tube. JJH
 
Oh I completely agree a tubeless is easier. With the right technique even the rear of an 800 GS comes off with 6inch tyre levers. Problem for most folk is they don't practice when it doesn't matter, so screw it up when it does. Have a go when it's a sunny day and there's a beer to hand...

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