What do I need to look for?

My mate is gonna buy this if its as described, he's hit the buy it now button but the seller isn't back in country till tomorrow so no money has changed hands, the listing is still visible so any pointers would be welcome.
 
It's worth asking about the shocks,if they are original then they will be tired imho
 
Ok....here we go....these bikes are pretty robust but there are a number of expensive items.

Brakes - ABS units can fail and cost a fortune to replace. Most don't bother and remove the unit....brakes work fine but just no ABS.
Final Drive - this can/will go at some stage but relatively easy to fix. Grab the rear wheel at the 3-9 oclock and then 12-6. Wiggle it aound...if the wheel moves by more than 1mm you will need to replace soon at a cost of about £300.

Rear shock - fronts go on for ages but rears give up eventually....budget for a rebuild of about £150.

Cam chain tensioner - a weak point as it had a design fault. New improved ones easily sourced and fitted and will quieten things down...allot.

Ignition - the cables were zip tied to the head stock very tightly and cases wiring to eventually break...many have just cut the zip tie.

Throttle bodies - the shims wear in the butterfly valves causing them to rattle....comes across as a very load ticking. Won't affect the bike performance too much but makes balancing the throttle bodies harder. Can be cured with a ticker killer kit which is a bit of a bodge but does the job.

Stick coils - these go and cause all sorts of running problems when on the way out. If the bike is running fine then so are they.

I think that's the main stuff....otherwise go on condition....if it looks good then probably is good.

One mod I would recommend is an AF XEID unit from the USA ...it plugs in and adjusts the fuel air mixture....transforms the bike into something much smoother and punchier.


Hope this helps
 


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