Cutting into the main beam circuit.

KP100

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After replacing the bulbs to LED for both dip and main beam, I still find the main beam to be lacking.

Im guessing it's simply a terrible reflector in the light housing..

As I do 50% of my comute in the dark, I bought 25w 4 led spot lights.

I would like to wire them to come on with bikes main beam switch.

I understand this will require a relay just like the fog lights I have already installed.

Is there a best way to go about this on the GS? Is there any aux sockets that would activate the switch on the relay? Or do I have to get the Stanley knife out.


Thanks.
P1030012.jpg
 
Take a trigger wire off your exsisting supply to your main beam to switch the relay and then run the power for the nrw lights directly from the battery with the appropriate in line fuse.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
You could use a positap on the headlight main beam wire to enable activation of the relay but Id suggest installing an in-line switch on the handlebars prior to a direct fused feed from the battery.
 
If you are using LED lights the original supply should be man enough, standard headlight would be 60 watt, so supply to it would be able to provide a bit more to give a margin.

How much will the LEDs draw? I guess a lot less than 60 watt, so a relay is not needed, just feed from the main beam original supply.
 
If you are using LED lights the original supply should be man enough, standard headlight would be 60 watt, so supply to it would be able to provide a bit more to give a margin.

How much will the LEDs draw? I guess a lot less than 60 watt, so a relay is not needed, just feed from the main beam original supply.
You are forgetting he has a headlight to run as well as the 2x 25w spots he stated he had bought.

You will need a relay and possibly a switch for MOT time.
 
Use a 4 pin relay wired as follows

Terminal 30 live supply from the battery via a fuse fitted close to battery
Terminal 87 supply to your additional lights
Terminal 86 from existing main beam to trigger relay (could be put through a switch)
Terminal 85 earth for relay.
 
You are forgetting he has a headlight to run as well as the 2x 25w spots he stated he had bought.

You will need a relay and possibly a switch for MOT time.

My bad. Didn't read the fact that the spots were 25 w each (I had a man look as she indoors would say).

25 watt units are quite a lot.. Should be able to light up the moon...
 
Cheers. I was wondering, BMW has spots available as an accessory.. Are they plug and play? Is there a socket somewhere that triggers the relay on the their lights? Without tapping into the loom.

I have just wired one on the lights into the Aux socket with a fuse just to see. The results in the underground carpark are beyond expectations. One spotlight is more powerful that the stock headlight. Cant wait to get to two fitted.
 
The BMW fog lights have an additional switch on the left switchgear along with an additional loom and it all plugs in under the tank. I can't remember if software needs to be turned on or not for it all to work.
 
Is this thread not about asking where the best place to take the main bean on trigger from?

KP100 I use by GSA year round on unlit back roads and I keep a halogen in the dip beam which gives a better cut off allowing you to set it as high as possible.

I then bring the standard fog lights up to match that cut off

Doing this means the main beam which cannot be adjusted independently is pointing as far forward as possible

I then just use an LED in the main beam which also means I have no on all the time heat issues with the LED in the dip

Not only does this set up give you good range it also means you don't get (a result of lights having to be aimed to low) is to much distracting bright light in the foreground.

I occasionally think about some narrow beam spots that I'd want to come on with the main beam, which is why I'd like to hear where a trigger is best taken from, but in reality it's rare that I now think I don't have the light I need
 
The spots you have look a lot like the 30 degree cone beam that I first fitted. They had no range and at least half of the light was going into the sky.

These give a powerful narrow beam that will easily support main beam. Videos on YouTube show how to disable the crappy flash mode.

s-l300.jpg


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Motor...0a461aaf2e6bf878b8044a&pid=100508&rk=1&rkt=1&

I wired mine with a relay triggered from the main beam power wire. Its easy enough to add to the patch lead you'll have used with the LED bulbs.
 
Yeah they do spread about 30 degree. Center is bright though. I might buy those one you suggested and add them to the relay as well. 5 lights on the main beam . Would be like a sunny day at night.. How many watts do you think i could get away with
 
Headlight are supposed to be no more than 50 watts halogen, but double brightness halogen is not illegal. The ones I quoted are said to be equivalent to 125 watts. In total lumens they probably are but the blue end of the spectrum is not much use to human eyes so while they are very bright they are not quite that good.

I also fitted angel rings around mine. They work with dipped beam so I still have a three lights triangle without the dazzle.
 
I ordered a set of those ones. They are as little as 7 quid each if you hunt around.. How many watts can the altanater handle .. I wonder. I think with a set of 25watt fogs and 2 120w spots, im on dangerous ground.
 
The alternator is more than up to the job. The lower spec version is at least 500 watts.

Don't forget to check YouTube to take out the silly multifunction chip that dims and strobes the light.
 
Finally my second light and loom arrived from Alli expresso.

Im using a switch and relay at the moment but these lights I got are worth a look at.

I have LED headlights in the standard halogen reflectors. Which are ok , big improvement. But get a look at the main beam now with the new spots.

They could do with a little more of a narrower beam, and I have another set of those narrow beam flashing type to fit yet, but the results are good so far.
1st pic. Dip beam LED bulb
beam1.jpg

2nd pic. full beam LED bulb.
beam2.jpg

3rd pic. new spot lights
beam3.jpg


I can see a lot more than the pics show because my eye are better than a phone cam lens , but you get the point.

Awsomeness .. back road night time commuting is great fun.
 
The OEM main beam angled too close to the dip beam. When you get the dip set correctly, main beam offers hardly any more range. When you get a useful main beam, dip beam is dazzling other road users.

Decent bulbs (HID, LED or otherwise) help enormously, but main beam is still disappointing.

I spliced in a wire to the main beam bulb power supply and used that to trigger a relay. The relay drives the narrow beam LED spot lights. The Adv has a fuse for each "auxiliary headlight" (OEM speak for spotlight). I use one fuse to power both LED spots.

The second adventure fuse drives a pair of LED angel rings that fit around the spot lamps. That way I have daylights and long range spots in one package.

The Adv spot lights switch is rubbish, so I have a simple illuminated toggle switch on the beak top by the wind deflectors.

I would like to fit an LED dimmer so the LED spots could be on all of the time with a dimmed setting with dip beam, switched to full power with main beam. So far, Ive not been able to make that work.
 
LED s use next to fuck all power, your alternator will handle it no probs. Take the trigger wire for the relay off the main beam wire INSIDE headlight unit its easy.
 
To fit LED bulbs you will need a patch lead to connect the headlamp 3 pin connector (on loom) to the two H7 bulb connectors. Take relay trigger wire(s) from the patch lead. There is a thread somewhere that shows the correct type of three pin connector to use.

You can splice into the OEM loom just before the headlamp connector but the wires are short making it really fiddly to do. I did this before I discovered the three pin connectors are available. It works but really not the best way to go.
 


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