little end on its way out.....
- Thread starter aeronut7
- Start date
It sounds fucked ! .......... I'll give you £500 for it
ive just washed it....gotto be worth more then that....
thanks for an amazing offer but think ill keep it for now....
Bendy toy
Registered user
Bad news - Mine just stopped and had to be recovered.
Good News - It's not rattling.
Good News - It's not rattling.
flatdog
Registered user
Perhaps he used the wrong type of screwdriver to listen ...
In your considered opinion, how many types of 'listening screwdrivers' are there?
Are they different to detect differing issues?
Bendy toy
Registered user
Big hammers are far more effective. Keep hitting it until the rattle stops. 
Would I need an insulated screwdriver to listen for an Alternator problem? Thanks for listening
Bendy toy
Registered user
Would I need an insulated screwdriver to listen for an Alternator problem? Thanks for listening
Silly boy of course not - it's only 12Volts (ok, 14.2). But for coils you would need marigolds, wellies and insulated screwdriver. Can't be too careful.
I worried over a rattle that started around 60,000 miles. Tried a few things like rocker end play, valve clearances, cam chain tensioners with little long-term success. Somedays it could sound like a bagful of spanners, others it would run ever so sweet.
At 140,000 miles I had not traced it. It had not got worse, nor better.
An idea to repaint the rusty subframe ballooned into a complete strip down, refurb and powder coat. Engine and gearbox got new bearings throughout, new pistons and rings and all 3 cam chains replaced. I did not do the small ends.
The small end bearings are not listed as a separate item by BMW, you have to buy a whole 'rod. I tried a local engineering firm to see if they would make new ones bearings and push them in. They checked the new gudgeon pins that I had and the existing small ends, the radial clearance was 0.02 mm. That is well within spec from new. The wear limit is 0.06mm. They recommended not doing the work; the fit was perfect and there would always be a degree of risk that they not be as good.
After the rebuild all rattles and odd noises are gone.
There was some debate on ADVrider about the front timing chain being the cause of a lot of noises throughout the valve train. The exact location being difficult to pinpoint.
The front timing chain is relatively easy to get at and replace, along with new sliders and tensioner. The cam chains on the other hand are a mare. They require a complete strip down
IMHO, check the small ends and gudgeon pins to be sure but do not be surprised if they are fine. BTW, when you remove the conrods, put the big-end caps straight back on and torque them lightly. They are made by bursting the metal, reassembling then machining. Keeping the rod assembled will stop any distortion.
Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
At 140,000 miles I had not traced it. It had not got worse, nor better.
An idea to repaint the rusty subframe ballooned into a complete strip down, refurb and powder coat. Engine and gearbox got new bearings throughout, new pistons and rings and all 3 cam chains replaced. I did not do the small ends.
The small end bearings are not listed as a separate item by BMW, you have to buy a whole 'rod. I tried a local engineering firm to see if they would make new ones bearings and push them in. They checked the new gudgeon pins that I had and the existing small ends, the radial clearance was 0.02 mm. That is well within spec from new. The wear limit is 0.06mm. They recommended not doing the work; the fit was perfect and there would always be a degree of risk that they not be as good.
After the rebuild all rattles and odd noises are gone.
There was some debate on ADVrider about the front timing chain being the cause of a lot of noises throughout the valve train. The exact location being difficult to pinpoint.
The front timing chain is relatively easy to get at and replace, along with new sliders and tensioner. The cam chains on the other hand are a mare. They require a complete strip down
IMHO, check the small ends and gudgeon pins to be sure but do not be surprised if they are fine. BTW, when you remove the conrods, put the big-end caps straight back on and torque them lightly. They are made by bursting the metal, reassembling then machining. Keeping the rod assembled will stop any distortion.
Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
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