GS LC topping up coolant

Nice 'n' Fat

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So I've removed the four screws that hold the right hand side panel on and the fifth which is a plastic body bound rivet is putting up a bit of a fight :mad:

Now I can see that it has a push fit insert which clearly expands the rivet to hold the panel in situ but there is no fucking access to the back of the rivet to push the insert out of the body :blast

I'm sure if I persist I will end up snapping the mounting point off the panel

Has anyone got any wise words or suggestions as to how I can get the rivet out without snapping the side panel?
 
Forget it ........... I've just found this vid and the rivet pins push straight through rather than push back out :blast

Thanks Jim :thumby:

 
Without the screws there should be enough room to move the panel outwards and get the top off the reservoir. Then use a funnel with a coupe of inches of tube on it to fill up. Works for me.
 
I wasn't prepared to take the chance of damaging the panel and once you have a small enough screw driver to hand pushing the pin through is a piece of piss :thumb2

Finding the pin again when it's fallen to the ground on a driveway covered in small grade pea shingle however is another story :blast
 
Why BMW use that body bound rivet instead of a fifth screw is beyond me :nenau

Penny pinching fuckers :blast

Totally agree with you on that. Just spent an hour trying to work out how to get it out without breaking the side panel. It’s like a bunch of crazy BMW engineers were drunk, and decided to play a trick on us. “Lets put a tiny body bound rivet in a place where it’s hard to see and get at”. Thank goodness JVB is still on the job.
Cheers,
Bill
 
Yep, I had to phone my local dealer - ‘How to’ - how embarrassing :D
 
How often are you guys having to add coolant ?
Not added to mine yet but only covered 3k.

Not had a watercooled bike for years (all oil cooled only).
 
So I've removed the four screws that hold the right hand side panel on and the fifth which is a plastic body bound rivet is putting up a bit of a fight :mad:

Now I can see that it has a push fit insert which clearly expands the rivet to hold the panel in situ but there is no fucking access to the back of the rivet to push the insert out of the body :blast

I'm sure if I persist I will end up snapping the mounting point off the panel

Has anyone got any wise words or suggestions as to how I can get the rivet out without snapping the side panel?

This type of rivet is locked by a center-tap. However, unlike most of this kind of fasteners that only use a straight pin that may be pushed through, BMW have chosen a type of lock-pin which is T-shaped.
It is easy to pull it out by the head using a small end-cutter that is able to get a grip under the head of the pin. The head of the pin is nearly flush with the head of the rivet, so a tiny tool is preferred.

I guess forcing the pin through is possible, but then the head will be damaged. On the other hand, if you the cut the damaged head off and push the pin back in, next time you do this job the job will be easier. :D
 
Totally agree with you on that. Just spent an hour trying to work out how to get it out without breaking the side panel. It’s like a bunch of crazy BMW engineers were drunk, and decided to play a trick on us. “Lets put a tiny body bound rivet in a place where it’s hard to see and get at”. Thank goodness JVB is still on the job.
Cheers,
Bill

I can assure you no automotive engineer / planner is crazy or drunk. You need to understand how moderns assembly process's work... Time is everything - Everything is planned around
assembly and that is the key.

You dont plan to disassemble a car or bike, you plan for assembly - the quicker you can assemble something the more time you save & the more units you can build - on average each

assembly step. In a modern car or bike factory is around 20 seconds, so if you can drop 5 seconds out of an assembly process step, that's a big chunk of time your saving to build a car or

bike. (5 secs form each assembly step, can save over 2.7 hours of time) Some steps take longer, but the priority is time

Also when a lot of components are built into a car or a bike, there built early on in the assembly process. so lots of other components are built over the top. - Again built to assemble

So while you think something is odd or why did they do that - from the brief there given - they did what they were asked to do.

Thats why repair times are so long now

A Passat cambelt is fitted in 2 minutes during the assembly phase but over 7 hours labour to change it due to how much of the car has to be removed for access

Nissan use 1 size fixing for all the door panels on a Primera - that way the person assembling the door panel cant pick up the wrong fixing and have to loose time looking for the right one

When i did some work for a tier one supplier, we were packing repair kits - we were shown how to build and fill the kits using both hands one, two, three, four, as opposed to the one, one

,one, one pick method . You build twice as much in the same amount of time
 
How often are you guys having to add coolant ?
Not added to mine yet but only covered 3k.

Not had a watercooled bike for years (all oil cooled only).


2014 bike with 50k, never needed topping up yet, but it just approaching the minimum....
 
How often are you guys having to add coolant ?
Not added to mine yet but only covered 3k.

Not had a watercooled bike for years (all oil cooled only).

I had 2 water pumps fail on a 2016 GS, (noticed weeping from the engine hole) and so I wanted to check how much fluid was lost.
 
Which was the same for me and the reason I needed to top up the system :thumby:

I’ve just checked my coolant level and it’s just below the minimum mark, as we never ever get a frost down here, I’m thinking of just topping up with distilled water, is there a reason why I shouldn’t or something I’ve missed.

Thanks in advance.
 
I can assure you no automotive engineer / planner is crazy or drunk. You need to understand how moderns assembly process's work... Time is everything - Everything is planned around assembly and that is the key.

You dont plan to disassemble a car or bike, you plan for assembly … .


This man speaks the truth…
 
I’ve just checked my coolant level and it’s just below the minimum mark, as we never ever get a frost down here, I’m thinking of just topping up with distilled water, is there a reason why I shouldn’t or something I’ve missed.

Thanks in advance.

Distilled water has no impurities which that means there are no protective buffering components and makes it particularly aggressive with no pH (acid/alkalinity) buffering, so a balanced inhibitor is a wise addition. This is particularly when aluminium may be present. Aluminium has a very tight band of pH stability and can dissolve when not protected.

Inhibitors also usually include antifreeze which provides frost protection and increases the boiling temperature of the coolant.
 
Thanks Dane, antifreeze it is then. I’m glad I asked.....:beerjug:
 


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