Pain in the neck

stratblue

stratblue

genoQian
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My very own recording studio! (South Wales).
Get some serious discomfort when I ride so i was thinking of trying some Rox Risers because they seem to offer a degree of adjustability on the road. I thought about bars with different degrees of sweep and height too but I'm guessing that there is a limited range of adjustment with all this before the bars interfere with the screen and winglets. I was going to try the lowest option and the highest option and see which is best, anyone got any suggestions for risers with a large amount of 'on the road' adjustment? It's a 2011 with a Givi AF330 and winglets if that makes a difference.

Cheers.
 
Last edited:
It could be your posture on the bike as opposed to how things are positioned. I was riding with my shoulders hunched up and got neck pain. Just a thought.
 
I bought the £23 chinese Rox copies on ebay and I have to say they are fine. Had to source my own allen bolts but thats all. Also got an allen cut down as access to bolts is a bit tight and keep it in the tool kit so I can adjust the bars for on or off road riding.

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I have just finished revising my set up for similar reasons. Have ended up with bars with less sweep and shortened by25mm each end. In addition I have risers which move bars up and back. This means hand guards just touch screen on full lock but they are pretty flexible so not a problem. GSA screen, standard guards and renthal 827 bars. Not necessarily going to work for you but shows what can be done.
 
Definitely agree about posture. Take a little time while riding to check your posture. Are your shoulders hunched up around you ears, are you sitting up right and not slouching.
You can buy farkles, but if your posture is wrong it will only mask the problem. Spend some cash on yoga or Alexander technique. Both worked brilliantly for me. No more pain, relaxed riding position.
Good luck hope you sort it out.

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Many bikers have round shoulders and forwards head posture cause buy the effects of holding against wind pressure. Pilates is great to help you rework posture patterns that will have developed over years.

Bar risers just allow you to sit with the same posture shape but leaning back eases strain on your neck. They don't solve the problem and don't stop you ending up looking like a hunchback. They also put more pressure onto your low back so problems then begin there instead.
 
stratblue said:
Get some serious discomfort when I ride so i was thinking of trying some Rox Risers because they seem to offer a degree of adjustability on the road. I thought about bars with different degrees of sweep and height too but I'm guessing that there is a limited range of adjustment with all this before the bars interfere with the screen and winglets. I was going to try the lowest option and the highest option and see which is best, anyone got any suggestions for risers with a large amount of 'on the road' adjustment? It's a 2011 with a Givi AF330 and winglets if that makes a difference.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

I bought my '63 TB TC GSA 2 years ago and had the same problem.
I have, relatively, short legs for my height but a long back so I sit tall in the saddle. I bought, and fitted, someone's risers that were, I'm sure, 50mm up and 25mm back and I've never had any pain since!
I'm just back from a 6000 mile tour around Europe, no problems whatsoever.
I've also got the Givi AF330 and it works brilliantly for me; the standard screen wasn't high enough.
 
I have rox risers and grip puppys.

Rox risers on there own did nothing that i could discern, i get numbness in both hands... (As Bendy can confirm due to my unique circumstances)

Grip puppys have helped the LH no end, they stop me from over gripping the bar and causing the numbness.

The RH is my Nemesis however. I have found there is a sweet spot in the twisting of the throttle which allows me to ride with no numbness whatsover.

Unfortunatly this means i'm on almost zero throttle. any other movement ( ie opening throttle. cruise , acceleration where i have to push against the "detent" wil

result in numbness within a few miles. ive yet to find a cure for that

Mart
 
Matt, Have you tried one of those clip-on throttle levers

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...809377?hash=item20d09b9021:g:um8AAOSwZtJW8nKL
mSLrLHEV7YXiMzQLRxhVgHQ.jpg


One of the lads from this parish makes something that works well
 
U ride with a Kidney Belt? ... helps my posture a fair bit ... zero back fatigue / pain


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Pilates is a very good way to learn posture improvement techniques. What I do also helps (a lot) but gets some "interesting" comments from some people.
 
Just back from a Scottish tour and I suffered a little from lower back ache, was going to try a kidney belt.
 
I used to get wrist ache and back ache before I fitted the Renthal McGrath bend handlebars with risers. They don't raise the grips height but the sweep angle is more comfortable. I'm leaning forwards (rather then OEM bolt upright) but actually much more comfortable.
 
For some reason, BMW want the rider sat bolt upright like a statue which I find hard on the low back.

I already had some Rox ant vibe risers. They drop into the bar clamps. The Renthal FatBars fit the risers but you might find some plain (parallel) bars with same bend for the less money.

There are two issues.
(1) Fitting the LHS grip and switch block which is tapped (M4 I suspect) into the handlebar - getting that wrong is all too easy especially if you have the aux lights switch. Get the clutch lever where you like it then position the grip/switch assembly and mark the hole with a Sharpie pen.

(2) The bar end weights have a a solid steel spigot about 30mm long which effectively widens the bars. You can cut that off or cut the new handlebars. Initially I used concrete anchors wrapped with thin alloy sheet to attach the cut off end weights. Later I tapped the bar ends M14 and screwed in some M14 sleeves tapped internally with M12. I used a jig made from 25mm angle iron and jubilee clips to keep the M14 tap in line.
 
Bendy toy said:
There are two issues.
(1) Fitting the LHS grip and switch block which is tapped (M4 I suspect) into the handlebar - getting that wrong is all too easy especially if you have the aux lights switch. Get the clutch lever where you like it then position the grip/switch assembly and mark the hole with a Sharpie pen.

(2) The bar end weights have a a solid steel spigot about 30mm long which effectively widens the bars. You can cut that off or cut the new handlebars. Initially I used concrete anchors wrapped with thin alloy sheet to attach the cut off end weights. Later I tapped the bar ends M14 and screwed in some M14 sleeves tapped internally with M12. I used a jig made from 25mm angle iron and jubilee clips to keep the M14 tap in line.
Click to expand...

That sounds like 'engineering' to me!
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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