Drilling Centre Engine Bolt any tips

waybehind

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So only one week into having the GS and already in trouble, ordered some SW-Mototech bars, trying to remove the centre engine support pin and the Torx head rounded off in an instant.

Anything to watch out for when drilling these out, cant believe i have having to take a drill the bike this soon
 

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waybehind said:
So only one week into having the GS and already in trouble, ordered some SW-Mototech bars, trying to remove the centre engine support pin and the Torx head rounded off in an instant.

Anything to watch out for when drilling these out, cant believe i have having to take a drill the bike this soon
Click to expand...

It's amazing how many manufacturers seem to have moved over from steel to cheese on the bolts.
Rather than drill it and use an easy out I would go slightly bigger than the thread size and just cut the top off then get the mole grips on the stub once the bar is out of the way (assuming the bar will move)
 
Before you drill it, are you sure it's really rounded badly ? You may be able to crack it with a decent torx bit and an impact driver ? It doesn't look that bad to me

Of course once it's out replace it with a new one
 
Don't drill yet, that looks like it has lots of meat on.

1. Are you using a good quality bit?
2. Try a hex bit and a tap from a hammer
3. Try the next Tory size up and hammer it in.
4. Buy a gator socket and give that a try.
5. Get your drill out.

And 2&3 are better with a impact gun if you can get one.

:thumb2
 
Would significantly heating it help, to melt any threadlock? If so, I have a heat gun you can borrow, I'm in Reading.
 
Nothing wrong with that torx bolt, I think you need to check that your using the correct size bit. A 27 will fit a 30 bolt but will slip when applying a bit effort.
 
I am on the, you have used the wrong size bit on it side. Nothing wrong with torx if you use decent bits the right size
 
You are using the wrong size torx bit. Try the next size up.
 
You also need a deep 18mm socket on the other end IIRC


From the dark side this was sent
 
Kenny Rodkiss said:
Nothing wrong with that torx bolt, I think you need to check that your using the correct size bit. A 27 will fit a 30 bolt but will slip when applying a bit effort.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, i tried an impact driver, different hex and torx head, the challenge is there is only about 2mm in depth of the Torx head. It looked and felt suspescously shallow when i first put the torx fitting in the head of the bolt, there just did not feel like a substantil satisfiying grip. The other challnge is the bolt end is well and truely thread locked on managed to get the bolt to move enough to lossen the entire pine from the frame and then the head went on the torx end, so i now have i nice loose spinning locked tight engine bolt.

So out with the drill bits and lets loose a few pounds sweating my bits off
 
Have you tried tapping the larger torx in with a mallet. I also have motech bars and recall having similar issues myself. Let me go take a pic of the bolt out of the bike for you.

IMG_1323.jpg


It's T55 by the way.

IIRC you need to release the nut on the right hand side first and you just use the torx to hold the bolt still when doing this.

It sounds like you have the threadlocked nut removed so can I suggest something to support the engine weight then use the motech bolt to drive out the original?

It's a lotveasier second time around.
 
waybehind said:
So only one week into having the GS and already in trouble, ordered some SW-Mototech bars, trying to remove the centre engine support pin and the Torx head rounded off in an instant.

Anything to watch out for when drilling these out, cant believe i have having to take a drill the bike this soon
Click to expand...

Just take it to your dealers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
oddshapedballs said:
Would significantly heating it help, to melt any threadlock? If so, I have a heat gun you can borrow, I'm in Reading.
Click to expand...

heat and the correct size tools would have been so much easier,if you dont know what you are doing ask first re threadlock etc or pay someone who does know what they are doing so you dont fuck up your new bike
 
autogs said:
heat and the correct size tools would have been so much easier,if you dont know what you are doing ask first re threadlock etc or pay someone who does know what they are doing so you dont fuck up your new bike
Click to expand...

You put in text, I thought it but wasn't gonna upset anyone by putting it in text.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Solution.!
I did the same myself the other day, I used a T50 Torx which rounded the corners, I then got a bigger T55 & hammered it fully home, result no slippage..
At first it appeared the T55 was too big, but it's a really tight fit & needed hammering home.
The nuts are heavily coated with loc tite, making it hard to remove.
I didn't but poss should have softened with WD40..

Please give this a try before drilling..
 
wd 40 will have bugger all effect on the bm threadlock you must use heat,a hot air gun is perfectly suited
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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