Planning on Purchasing a GS1200

Waynec777

Registered user
Joined
Jul 4, 2017
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Boston, England
Hi all,

After some advice from you.

I am considering the purchase of a GS1200.

I would be grateful for advice on the best buy`s, Looking at around a 2011 - 2014. bike, whats to look for whats to avoid etc etc. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Wayne
 
2011 - 2014 spans two distinctly different machines. The Twin Cam air cooled GS (2011-2012) and the Liquid Cooled latest version (2013-2014). Of these regular GS's (not GSA's) I would advise on the 2012 Triple Black Twin Cam. A lovely machine, last in the line and pretty much bullet proof. Of the later ones, 2014 got the option for Gear Assist Pro (GAP) which is a wonderful addition to the bike as well as the integrated Navigation / Computer and LED lights etc. Expect to pay around £6.5k for a 2012 Twin Cam with around 25k miles and £8.5k for a 2014 LC with 20k miles. Just like any bike, both can corrode if not looked after.
 
+1 the stoned circular one speaks sense, I'd take a late twin cam over an early WC all day.
 
+1 on a triple black. Looks mean and bullet proof!

If you can, see if you can have the potential bike scanned by either your favorite mechanic or a BMW dealer (specially if you're buying from a private without warranty).

Good luck with it, you'll love every second of it.

Cheers,
Rami
 
Can't see what all the fuss is about: fuel strips, fuel pump controllers, final drives, clutches, corroded engine front covers. Don't read too many threads. My 2012 TC has been completely trouble free and still rides like new, though the Wilbers help. Go for it, probably hard to find one without all the toys.
 
The TC is the best sorted and there's plenty of clean ones around.
If it has 25-30k miles on it, be ready to think about changing the suspension units or getting them rebuilt.
If it hasn't already been done, consider getting a Hilltop remap or fit a pair of AF XiED units. It makes it so much nicer to ride. Smoother and more flexible.
If it has a sports exhaust, make sure you get the standard one with it. They can get tiresome over a distance but whatever turns you on. At least you can go to stock if you get tired of it.
Incidentally, the top sports silencers, such as an Akro, will give you the same power as stock. Most of the cheaper ones will actually reduce power. The stock silencer may be ugly, but it's very well designed. Loose the flappy valve, though.
My TC now has 43k miles on it, 30k in the last two years that I've had it, and it just seems to get better all the time.
 
There is a fantastic TC Adventure in the for sale section at the moment.
I'm starting to have an inkling of a thought about it myself!!

Sent from a OnePlusX.
 
It is Boston bike night tomorrow. We will be there and no doubt a lot more TC GS owners. Do the rounds and have a good natter.
Given the option of a new LC or the last of the Twin Cams, I went with the TC and would still make the same choice today.
 
Welcome wayne
ive a triple black tc could pop over with it or meet if you wanted
Any excuse for a ride out !!!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
The fancy exhausts do not increase power UNTIL you have it remapped or fit a Power Commander, etc. You then appreciate what a 1200 can really do.

Wilbers require a service at 15000 to maintain the warranty so even standard suspension will be well past it's best at 25,000 miles. You can get them rebuilt for +£200. A brace of Wilbers will transform the bike.

Get it warm and pull the clutch with box in neutral. If a rattle comes and goes with the lever - its excess clearance in the gearbox. It wont stop the bike, but by 50,000 the racket will be getting on your t*ts.

Check the front cover for corrosion. They can rot badly enough under the alternator cover to cause oil leaks. It's easily enough repaired but not cost-free.
 
Cheers Guys, got a 2011 triple black. Hope to see some of you at Boston bike night tonight. Thanks for all your help.
 
thinking of buying a 1200 gs,i dont know anything about them, the redg is YP 56 KWR, dont know the model, or serial no, it is for sale at a dealer in warrington, full b m service history uo to 27000 mls now has 31000 on it,good looking machine,in blue/silver,looks very diferent to most ive been to look at,any one any info that would be of use,that would be great,thanx S
 
At 31k miles you'll need to budget for a suspension rebuild or changes in the near future. Costs from around £4-500 doing it yourself. Could be a price negotiating point.
Don't let the dealer tell you that it will run forever because it's a BMW. They have their faults.
If it's clean, looks like it has been looked after and has a history, it should be fine. Depending on price, of course.
You may find it a bit different from other bikes you've ridden, but give it time.
Don't be in a hurry to 'improve' it, exhausts, etc. Take your time and decide what you want. Pretty much everything you can do has been discussed on the forum at some point.
 
thinking of buying a 1200 gs,i dont know anything about them, the redg is YP 56 KWR, dont know the model, or serial no, it is for sale at a dealer in warrington, full b m service history uo to 27000 mls now has 31000 on it,good looking machine,in blue/silver,looks very diferent to most ive been to look at,any one any info that would be of use,that would be great,thanx S


Bear in mind that if it has ABS its likely to be a servo operated system if its a 2006 bike, they fitted servo ABS at that time to solve an issue that never existed..... and the servo can pack up ......
 
Personally I would go for a later model but they also have their problems.

Up to 2008, the frame paint is crap and will almost certainly have to be repainted.

Before 2008 the final drive has weak bearings inside. When they start to leak replace the drive rather than rebuild. Costs about the same.

Up to 2009 they all have the dreaded fuel strip.

If you have the cash get a 2010 onwards when (most of) the issues were sorted out.

They all suffer with front engine cover corrosion. Its caused by the mega hard coating cracking and letting the weather in.

They steer the same as all bikes but will hardly steer at all by the rider shifting bodyweight on footrests. You have to counter-steer the bars into and out of bends.
 


Back
Top Bottom