OK here goes:
First of all my bike is a 2006 Adventure - whether or not there are any subtle differences on other bikes I cannot say.
I bought these two parts from
Motorworks:
Part numbers: BRA50965A and BRA95966
First job is to remove fuel tank to access ABS unit under tank:
I then started with the rear brake by attaching a pipe and bottle to rear caliper bleed nipple opened the nipple and pumped out as much fluid using the servo motor as would come. This was repeated for both front calipers. I then disconnected the brake pipes going into the top of the servo unit - the pipes are held in by a small clip that can be levered out with a small flat blade screw driver - just slide the rubber boot up the pipes and you'll see the clips. Pipes then just pull out but have rags ready to catch spilt brake fluid. The pipe on front left goes to front master cylinder and pipe on rear left goes to rear master cylinder. Fluid in the can be pumped out of these now open pipes using the brake levers with a suitable container to catch the fluid. I didn't take any pictures of this stage but basically you are trying to empty all the fluid out of the system.
ABS unit can now be removed from the bike. Disconnect battery (just in case to protect electronics unit on ABS unit as this is required to be kept). Disconnect the big plug from top of ABS unit and also two smaller plugs on top of ABS unit (smaller plugs can be taped up and cabled tied out the way as they will not be reconnected again - they are connected to the float sensors in ABS unit). ABS unit can be removed by undoing two torx bolts underneath - one is accessed on right hand side of bike underneath rear of ABS unit (very close to frame so tight squeeze) and the other is accessed from laft side of bike underneath front of ABS unit. Takes a bit of wriggling unit around but it does then come complete with its mounting underneath it.
Next I disconnected the pipes from the connections here by the headstock:
These pipes can then be removed and the connecting piece from
Motorworks fitted in their place:
Next remove the two pipes by the rear brake lever (one is screw fitting and other is a small clip like on ABS unit):
These pipes can then be removed and the other connecting piece from
Motorworks fitted:
That's it for the pipework.
Next I took the electronics off from the ABS unit. Undo the four 5 pointed security torx type bolts holding the electronics part to the ABS unit (I bought some suitable security bits from ebay - Silverhill 5 point star torx security bits). Fold the electronics unit forward:
The two small plugs are disconnected first:
Just lever off with a small screw driver. Next disconnect the servo motor wires - I pulled off with a pair of long nosed pliers:
Electronics unit is now free from ABS unit:
The electronics unit now needs to have the exposed electronics sealed from the elements. I cut a piece of aluminium sheet to size and shape and covered the exposed electronics using some long bolts:
I then covered the lot with self amalgamating tape. I took the mounting bracket off the bottom of the ABS unit and using a piece of flat aluminium bar, a couple of right angle brackets and some nuts and bolts made a new bracket to hold the electronics back in place on the bike. I attached this to the electronics via the previously fitted long bolts:
I then fitted the electronics unit back into the bike and connected the big connector:
I could have just cable tied the electronics in place and not faffed around with the bracket but I had bits lying around and decided it would be neater.
Next was dealing with warning lights in clocks. The clocks had to be removed from the bike which in my case involved removing screen and headlamp:
Clocks were opened up to access the warning LED's (just undo screws on back of clocks and prise apart). Watch you don't lose the trip meter reset push button pieces as it comes apart. I used insulation tape to cover the LED's - completely blank out brake failure warning and the red LED's on the general warning triangle:
Re-assemble the clocks and put them all back together and plug back into bike. Next refill the brakes with fluid and bleed them as you would do with any normal set of bike brakes. Reconnect the battery (check warning lights in dark and that red warning triangle and brake failure lights can't be seen but that amber warning triangle can be seen) and put the bike back together and that's it job done
Take for a test ride and enjoy your new servo-less, ABS-less bike
The electronics unit is required for the speedo to work. It gets the speed from the rear wheel ABS sensor (mounted in final drive). I have been told if this sensor fails it then gets the speed from the front wheel ABS sensor and ring - I don't know if this is correct or not but I left my fron wheel sensor and ring in place. I had no problems with recent MOT.
I think the brakes are good without the servo - more feel to them and not so sharp. Yes you've got to bear in mind you have no ABS but then this is the only ABS equipped bike I've ever owned so I can live without the ABS - just ride a bit more carefully to avoid needing the ABS
I still get a slight shock when I don't hear the servo motors when first turning on the ignition because I've heard it for 10 years but I'm sure I'll not notice soon enough
Anyway hope the above is of some help and OK to follow.
or even have just dreamt of reading it 
