Bean-can

Redboots

Redboots

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I have a problem with the bob weights sticking in my bean-can and when the motor gets hot, shutting the throttle only slows to 2000 rpm unless I let the clutch drag it down.
Later in the year I'm going to swap it for one of these, but in the mean-time I need to keep it going with the original.

I have cleaned it out with a goodly dose of contact cleaner. What should I re-lube it with?
Silicone spray do the job for a couple of months or something else?

Ta.
 
Search function to the rescue :blast

Motorworks sell it apparently. None to hand, cant wait, used a bit of chain oil:augie
 
Try opening up your valve clearances a little? This was suggested to me by a gentleman I respect and indeed stopped my own problems in this area.
 
I used a spray grease once, a wonder product which would run through a brake cable and then set into a thick tacky grease.
Only problem was that the solvent / carrier took a couple of hours to evaporate off, and was extremely flammable - not what you want if you have a points system!
Luckily it was on a B44 Victor and the motor vents through the timing chest and it blew the flames out in a plume about two feet long for a few seconds, but as it was the first start after a long and costly rebuild it was an anxious moment!
 
Beemerboff said:
I used a spray grease once, a wonder product which would run through a brake cable and then set into a thick tacky grease.
Only problem was that the solvent / carrier took a couple of hours to evaporate off, and was extremely flammable - not what you want if you have a points system!
Click to expand...

Wurth do a spray grease just like that. Penetrates like a thin solvent and then thickens into a grease. Good stuff
 
It was the Wurth product, I didnt want to single it out as it is an excellent product apart from that and most other spray greases are probably the same -------------.
 
Beemerboff said:
It was the Wurth product, I didnt want to single it out as it is an excellent product apart from that and most other spray greases are probably the same -------------.
Click to expand...

I've never found another type of grease like the Wurth product.

All the others are just the normal spray grease.
 
Fuchs Silkolene range had a wet chain grease It was excellent for way more than chains

It sprayed on quite thick and bubbled and after 3 or 4 minutes it was a film of grease
 
The link to the safety sheet confirms that, like the Wurth grease, the Morris grease is is extremely flammable when spraying and for a unspecified period after, so the same caution is required, give the solvent plenty of time to evaporate off, and have plenty of ventilation to disperse the flammable propellant and solvent!
 
There is a little lid on the side of the bean can, so you can spray something in easily without disturbing the timing or anything else, which is the attraction of the spray lube.
Not saying it is the best solution, but if you are chasing a elusive fault it ticks an item off the list.
And once it dries the Wurth stuff is the stickiest grease I have found , so it is less likely to migrate to somewhere it isn't wanted too.
 
B Murr said:
Is this the grease ye are talking about? https://eshop.wurth.ie/is-bin/INTER...=CS008&RecoId=categorytopseller@categorypageA
Click to expand...

I think the actual one is Wurth HHS 2000 (at least thats what I have - sprays thin like a very light oil then thickens to grease). There is also HHS fluid, which is even thinner on the initial application. The one you link to looks like a more common spray lube. The HHS 2000/HHS fluid does specifically mention excellent creep properties, which is what you are looking for.
 
Yep, HHS 2000, penetrates well enough for most.
The solvent/carrier is extremely flammable and takes a fair while to fully evaporate, so don't fire up the ignition too soon - DAHIK!!!!
 
Redboots said:
I have a problem with the bob weights sticking in my bean-can and when the motor gets hot, shutting the throttle only slows to 2000 rpm unless I let the clutch drag it down.
Later in the year I'm going to swap it for one of these, but in the mean-time I need to keep it going with the original.

I have cleaned it out with a goodly dose of contact cleaner. What should I re-lube it with?
Silicone spray do the job for a couple of months or something else?

Ta.
Click to expand...

I have the same issue......I was thinking I needed to overhaul the carbs. It only occurs after the bike is very hot or ridden at over 5,000 revs.
 
Greasing the springs on the beancan really is not a big deal. If you mark the position of the beancan and crankcase with a sharpie before you remove, then you can align it when you put it back on the bike, and timing will be pretty much exactly the same.
Remove the little inspection window on the beancan, and with a dentist type probe, move the spring around a bit, and apply grease with a tiny screwdriver or similar. Move the springs around a bit more,rub the grease well into the springs and pivot points, and that's it really. Align up your marks on the beancan/case, and you're done.
I do have a couple of spare beancans that I keep greased, so if one plays up, it's easy to swop over.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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