Do I need to remove exhaust to replace rear disc on R1200GS (2005)

Greybeard

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Just wondered if anyone can tell me if I need to remove the exhaust silencer when I replace the original rear disc (which after 35000 miles is worn well beyond service limit, as pointed out at a recent annual service) with a Brembo disc from Motorworks.

My Haynes manual says it should be taken off before removal of the rear wheel, but I've removed the rear wheel several times before without having to take off the exhaust.

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who has replaced the rear disc.

Cheers, Paul
 
Just wondered if anyone can tell me if I need to remove the exhaust silencer when I replace the original rear disc (which after 35000 miles is worn well beyond service limit, as pointed out at a recent annual service) with a Brembo disc from Motorworks.

My Haynes manual says it should be taken off before removal of the rear wheel, but I've removed the rear wheel several times before without having to take off the exhaust.

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who has replaced the rear disc.

Cheers, Paul

Soooo you've removed the wheel several times without removing the exhaust in the past, but now you're asking whether you need to remove the exhaust before removing the rear wheel ?
Am I missing something here ?
 
What you will need to remove the disc from the FD is an extended torx to remove the torx bolts holding the disc to the FD.
There's a small indentation in the FD casing to allow access to the bolts but a regular torx generally won't fit.
Take your time and give them a bit of a soak with WD40 or similar. Bit of heat if necessary.
 
What you will need to remove the disc from the FD is an extended torx to remove the torx bolts holding the disc to the FD.
There's a small indentation in the FD casing to allow access to the bolts but a regular torx generally won't fit.
Take your time and give them a bit of a soak with WD40 or similar. Bit of heat if necessary.

Hmmm, I have just ordered a new disc for my 2011 GSA (75,000 dirty miles). I wasn't planning on removing the exhaust either. But , If a bolt is tight or stuck I can bugger it right up VERY easily. How difficult am I going to find undoing these bolts? I just know 4 of them will come off ok and the 5 th will either round or snap off.
 
For what it costs to drill out a sheared bolt you are better getting it to a professional.

I do most of my bike repairs but things like this get left to the Pros.
 
Hmmm, I have just ordered a new disc for my 2011 GSA (75,000 dirty miles). I wasn't planning on removing the exhaust either. But , If a bolt is tight or stuck I can bugger it right up VERY easily. How difficult am I going to find undoing these bolts? I just know 4 of them will come off ok and the 5 th will either round or snap off.

As already mentioned, use plenty of heat and take your time and you should be OK.

The first time I did mine I rounded a bolt off. I ran the bike round to a mate who is a truck mechanic who said "go for a walk for 15 minutes and when you come back it will be done" :eek: I'm still not 100% sure how he did it and I don't really want to but now I let a professional do it :thumb
 
Look ladies, this really isn't rocket science.
Leave the bloody exhaust alone and drop the wheel out.
You'll see the 'spider' that holds the disc, think there's five bolts and if I remember correctly, the holes in the spider are open so you can see the ends of the bolts and threads. Spray plenty of your favorite easing oil into the holes and around the area and, if you can, leave it overnight to soak. Then spray more.
For clarification, the bolts are removed from the right side of the bike. If you look at the outer part of the FD, you'll see a cut out on the casing and you can spot each of the countersunk bolts on the disc passing the cut out as you rotate the wheel/disc.
This is why you need something like this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trident-T121040-Long-Torx-Bit-Socket-3-8-Drive-T40-Length-100mm-/321406053378?epid=1922950736&hash=item4ad54b2c02:m:mbYuI1H8Ef-sfTDfUongvlg
Can't remember if it is a T40, on holiday at the moment, so check before ordering.
When you go to loosen the bolt, use an extension piece and give it a couple of sharp taps with a hammer first, keeping it square with the bolt.
Recommend using a T bar rather than a ratchet when loosening, less likely to twist out and damage the bolt head.
Did mine at about 30k miles and the bolts came out with no problems at all.
If I can do it, anyone can. If you are really that nervous about doing it, then that's what dealers are for.
You will get that glow of satisfaction if you do it yourself, though. Women will want to have your children, etc. :D
 
My MOT man said if a worn disc has no signs of cracking its ok. He looked at mine VERY closely but passed it. The disc was renewed before the next MOT when Mikey rebuilt the final drive.
 
3.2mm doesn't sound like a lot.
I would replace it if it was mine. They don't just think of a number when deciding what the recommended minimum should be.
Especially if it's my ass that's being used as brakes if it broke up.
 
Heat is your friend - get hold of a fine flame plumbers torch.
ACF50 is a great releasant.
 
3.2mm doesn't sound like a lot.
I would replace it if it was mine. They don't just think of a number when deciding what the recommended minimum should be.
Especially if it's my ass that's being used as brakes if it broke up.

To be fair that sounds like about 50% has worn away.
 
Quick look at Mr Haynes publication says rear disc is 5mm, service limit is 4.5mm. Interestingly fronts are thinner at 4.5mm and 4mm limit. Just for comparison my car has front discs 32mm and limit is 22..
 
Hmmm, I have just ordered a new disc for my 2011 GSA (75,000 dirty miles). I wasn't planning on removing the exhaust either. But , If a bolt is tight or stuck I can bugger it right up VERY easily. How difficult am I going to find undoing these bolts? I just know 4 of them will come off ok and the 5 th will either round or snap off.

Heat, a hot air gun is sufficient.

My rear disc is 3.2mm thick, oops:blush

That's thick.... some of my customers rear discs are as thin as a biscuit tin. :D
 
OK, thanks for all the helpful advice, it's all done and dusted - just come back from a test ride and the braking all felt smooth and positive. :)

The video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrOrjSy41_g was quite useful, it reminded me to tie the rear brake lever to prevent it accidentally activating the brake while it was held off the disc.

I used some WD40 on the 5 disc retaining bolts and left them while I had a coffee, they came undone without me needing to use any heat. I had already got a long T40 hex / torx as part of a set [ https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I6J6NGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - seems reasonable quality to me].

You will get that glow of satisfaction if you do it yourself, though. Women will want to have your children, etc. :D

So, just need to relax and savour the glow of satisfaction and prepare to spend some of the beer tokens I've saved. :beerjug:

Oh, hang on - there's someone at the door, probably one of those women... must go!
 


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