1200GS High Speed Weave

Right there is one thing you can adjust and get right, after which other adjustments are done.

Set preload to 1/3 available travel when you are sat on the bike.

Get a friend to help, be mm accurate!, do the test a couple of times to average the measurements. You may need appropriate new springs if you are heavier or lighter than BMW "normal"
 
Assuming the suspension is not totally sha99ed, front ball joint and bearing in the steering triple clamp are my first places to look. Stiff/knotchy steering bearings will cause a weave.

My steering bearing was replaced when I had the front end stripped for powder coating. The bearing was surprisingly lumpy (considering the ball joint should take the hit). The bike felt lighter to steer with the new bearing but it had never got close to weaving under any provocation.

Get some gear oil into the front ball joint. If the problem improves you may still need to replace it but also check the headstock steering bearing.
 
My previous 1150 GS had a duff ball joint. After replacement I was very surprised how precise the handling was. After that I concluded that this joint is responsible for a lot. I didn't get any of the weave your describing, but it was the winter months and mostly commuting, so sub-60mph. Mine had a split gaiter, not sure how long for. The old ball joint looked Ok on removal, but obviously it was knackered.

In short, Steptoe may well have homed in straight to the issue if the other, more obvious details check out Ok
 
Mines very stable up to 80Mph
Then it feels like its hit a brick wall, very little instant grunt just progressive acceleration from then on in...
 
Mine was like that until I fitted a decat header and even better the it had a Power Commander. A remap IMO far beats the PC but I got mine at very reasonable cost.

Standard bike has a big flat spot from 4000 to 5000 rpm and generally runs weak. A decat header helps but something to reprogram the fuel/air mixture is the only way to go
 
With AF units, mine pulls from 80 like you've lit up the afterburners :)

And getting back on topic, it doesn't weave at any speed solo, two up loaded, anything.
Don't just add a steering damper, fix the problem.
 
Mine does not weave at OMG HOW FAST? speeds even with TKC-70 tyres.

Loosen the ball joint from the swing arm. Replace the rubber boot if necessary, clean the ball joint and refit the cover. Squirt in some gear oil before reassembling.

If the joint is loose replace it.
 
Turned out to be nothing more than rider error ;-). Tweaked up the front shock pre-load a couple of notches and also wound up the rear damper to medium setting the weekend and gave the damper screw another half a turn. Suspension set up was a bit soft for my style of riding and the roads out my way (Teme Valley, Worcestershire, aka Germany). Now handles like it should. Might lose a few fillings now, but a trip to the dentist is cheaper than new suspension!
 
You got the ride with 48000 and now has 55000 that is 7000 miles on the tyres, I would bet on 2 things either the tyres are breaking down, high possibility, or +1 on what Steptoe said, I come from a Harley background and as soon as the tyres start getting used a little many weird things happen in curves, I bet if you got a new set of tyres it would be rock solid again.
 
grahamf505 said:
Turned out to be nothing more than rider error ;-). Tweaked up the front shock pre-load a couple of notches and also wound up the rear damper to medium setting the weekend and gave the damper screw another half a turn. Suspension set up was a bit soft for my style of riding and the roads out my way (Teme Valley, Worcestershire, aka Germany). Now handles like it should. Might lose a few fillings now, but a trip to the dentist is cheaper than new suspension!
Click to expand...

With me & Mrs Reg aboard & FULLY LOADED panniers & Top Box Me 18 stone her 14 stone we had that bike set up for the trip down to Spain, at mega speeds and also tootling about it was as good as it should have been, never a worry. So pleased it turned out to be adjustment, I worry myself sick when I sell anything on!
 
grahamf505 said:
Turned out to be nothing more than rider error ;-). Tweaked up the front shock pre-load a couple of notches and also wound up the rear damper to medium setting the weekend and gave the damper screw another half a turn. Suspension set up was a bit soft for my style of riding and the roads out my way (Teme Valley, Worcestershire, aka Germany). Now handles like it should. Might lose a few fillings now, but a trip to the dentist is cheaper than new suspension!
Click to expand...

Doubt it!!:eek:

My 2005 is absolutely solid at all speeds, don't waste money on a damper, sort the cause. Seen that you have managed to adjust it out but it shouldn't be at the expense of fillings coming loose

Was once told that problems at one end are generally caused by problems at the other - notwithstanding Steptoe's advice - if anyone knows what they're talking about, it'll be him.:thumb
 
Mine handled almost as well in full soft soggy mode as all out sport mode. With soft damping the wheel tracks better over bumps. The Televever stops any tendency to jackknife but wont stop a weave if the steering has become stiff.

When the front damper damping went awol all I got was a funny wear pattern on the tyre. New (lightly used) OEM shocks handled better (obviously) but not as much as I expected.

The front ball joint is easy enough to prove. Loosen the nut (may need heat to >100C) and drop the fork down an inch or so. Waggle the joint peg and take a good look at the rubber boot. Replace and clean inside if the boot is split. With new boot, squirt in some gear oil and reassemble. If the weave goes away, you have at least found part of the problem. When the weave comes back (as it probably will) a new ball joint will sort it. When you do that, fit a new steering yoke bearing as well.
 
When you set up your suspension take note of the sag values. By adjusting the preload you are in fact adjusting sag. This has to be set up for your weight and the bike with fluids. Adjusting the damping is nothing more than adjusting the rate at which the piston moves inside. This can be diagnosed by the handling characteristics entering and exiting a corner, acceleration and deceleration and how it behaves with uneven surfaces. If the bike weaves there is play somewhere.
 
Another thought. Mine feels less secure at motorways speeds with off road style tyres. Conti TKC-70 use the same carcass as the Road/Trail Attack 2 but due to the tread blocks the bike feels skittish at speed. With road biased tyres it feels solid at speed.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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