"Grub Screw" For Clutch & Front Brake Levers - Have I Got The Right Part Here?

"Grub Screw" For Clutch & Front Brake Levers - Have I Got The Right Part Here?

I'm fitting new brake & clutch levers on my 1150GS. There's a grub screw loctided into the levers - it actuates/depresses the piston, AFAIK. It's not coming out. I've damaged the slot head in my efforts to remove the one on the clutch lever, without it budging. So it's in there forever. I'll keep the original levers as spares (with these grub screws in place), but I'll need new ones to fit into my new levers.

I'm pretty sure I've got the right P/N from RealOEM. BMW are getting two in from Germany for me.

Can the Tosser collective confirm that I do have the correct part (same P/N - 32722333064 - for both clutch & brake):

Clutch, #13: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...0_GS_00_0415,0495_&diagId=32_0953#32722333064

Brake, #18: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...0_GS_00_0415,0495_&diagId=32_0930#32722333064


Thanks.

Mark

That's the way I read it. correct part no.

From memory when I replaced my clutch master cylinder piston set, I left the grub screw in place. I think they are loctited as part of the master cylinder calibration. So that full lever travel moves the piston the correct distance.

It's a grub screw with a floating rod on the end so that it articulates. Hence the outrageous price tag. But then you already know that.

Ah Jeaney Mac... Now we're talking about calibration?! I just wanted fancy levers!

Yep - floating rod of 2cm or so. €22 each.

I didn't see anything in my Haynes manual about calibrating anything on re-installation. Maybe I missed it - I'll look again later.

Risk of catastrophic failure if not calibrated?

As far as I am aware, I think it's one of those factory set things.

I'm sure you can work it out, you will have the old levers and grubs screws to use as a reference. If you set the rod lengths the same, you wouldn't be far off.

The pivot point of the old and new levers should be the same, so provided the piston travels the same distance with old and new levers then you should be OK.

You're right - they don't use the word calibrate in the manual, but they do describe the process to ensure the correct plunge-depth for the rod. Seems simple enough. Just waiting now for the grub lads to arrive.

Thanks dude.