Chopping in a 12 for an 8 ??

Too much speed, the faster the bike, the faster I want to ride it. The 800 is a great compromise between my tenere 660 and the 12. I can pottle about on my 660 but not tour, I can ride hard and fast on the 12 but not pottle about on it, for me, the 800 fits the bill both the others can't fill.

Anyway, we are digressing, I'm keen know how much I'll get raped before I cross the door if that's possible.
 
At the risk of upsetting a few reprobates on here :upyou

The F800 is all you need, well certainly all I need :D

132,000 miles now, no corrosion, no issues. Original clutch, cam chain, valve clearances never needed adjusting, all bang on halfway between max/min permitted :thumb

Doesn't use any oil ... 1/4" on dipstick maybe, after two weeks in the Pyrenees and a week and a half down in the Süd Schwarzwald :D

One set of original front brake pads only, original front discs ...

... not like that Engineer chappie fella who dives on his brakes every corner 'cause he's going too fast :D

Lightweight you say? Maybe .... but that's twenty front tyres and twenty-five rear (minimum) :D

132,000 miles in nine years, winter use too :rob

All photographs taken this afternoon ...

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Mind you, I do have an issue with quality control ... the paint wearing off the fairing, the frame and the engine :eek:

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Dunno why JJH carps on about bloody tubed tyres ... had about four pictures in the the last ten years, all easily sorted and never left stranded :D

Tubes and chains aint what they used to be back in the sixties :rob

:beerjug:
 
132,000 miles now, no corrosion

Without doubt, it is a real credit to you, Micky. :beerjug:

I was telling my mate about your bike, tho' sadly his has corrosion in the front wheel hub and left side engine casing that was reported when it was in for its service (5800 miles). Hopefully he'll get it sorted out under warranty.

If more people were more honest with themselves, they'd realise they don't need bigger/faster bikes. But the marketing men have the most of us convinced that bigger is better. I especially always laugh at those blokes that in reality are too small for the likes of a 12GS, but have to have one because of the badge or the image or whatever. Still, whatever makes you happy in your own little world. ;)
 
You might struggle to sell it private due to the cost.
With the advent of the PcP not many people are willing to drop 10k plus cash on a bike.

I've sold mine in under 5 days on here. No drama. Dealer would've sold that bike for £11.995 and made a massive profit of around £3500. PX Value I had from another dealer, made me decide to sell it privately. So I did!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Those 800gs do seem more reliable and loads have racked up huge mileages. However previous 1200 were pretty good. It appears that cost cutting on quality over the last 3 or 4 years has had an impact. This may also affect recently built 800 machines.

However, I rode my sept 2013 from Staffordshire to the west coast of ireland yesterday and was really pleased with the handling, performance. A 1200gs is the one I would choose over an 800. The boxer engine is unique.
 
The boxer engine is unique.

Of course it is ... it's a Boxer Engine :thumb

The F800Gs is unique too ... it's a vertical twin, 800 built by Rotax ... far better engineering :D

:beerjug:

Edit ... I just rode my 800 round the Pyrenees for a couple of weeks, back a week and then down to the Black Forest for a week and a half ... far more fun than a lardy 1200 :D
 
I've sold mine in under 5 days on here. No drama. Dealer would've sold that bike for £11.995 and made a massive profit of around £3500. PX Value I had from another dealer, made me decide to sell it privately. So I did!

Fair enough. I have a few mates who sell a lot of bikes and over the last few years they have found cash sales on the higher end ones are getting harder and harder and the main reason people give is "why spend 10 to 15k as a lump sum when I can get a PcP at £100/150 a month and keep hold of my capital"
If people on here find different then fair enough.
 
Of course it's possible to sell it privately but how many people would hand over 10K+ for a bike and then walk away trusting the seller would actually pay off the finance ? Not me thats for sure. A month later theres a knock at the door and the bailiffs take it away as the seller pissed the money up the wall and didn't settle the pcp finance. Happens quite often in the car world. I'm not saying you would do that as I know you but other people don't.
The dealer will work out how much you still owe on your pcp, then work out how much you bikes worth in Glasses guide and subtract that from the bikes value. You are likely to still owe them money. Once you settle that up you will be starting from zero to get the new 800 so you'll need a deposit to get it on pcp.........I'd save a bit more and get a bank loan, pcp is for mugs. Hope you make the correct choice though Stuart.
 
At the risk of upsetting a few reprobates on here :upyou

The F800 is all you need, well certainly all I need :D

132,000 miles now, no corrosion, no issues. Original clutch, cam chain, valve clearances never needed adjusting, all bang on halfway between max/min permitted :thumb

Doesn't use any oil ... 1/4" on dipstick maybe, after two weeks in the Pyrenees and a week and a half down in the Süd Schwarzwald :D

One set of original front brake pads only, original front discs ...

... not like that Engineer chappie fella who dives on his brakes every corner 'cause he's going too fast :D

Lightweight you say? Maybe .... but that's twenty front tyres and twenty-five rear (minimum) :D

132,000 miles in nine years, winter use too :rob

All photographs taken this afternoon ...

i-9t5rckw-L.jpg


i-kZsdk7G-L.jpg


i-TjSq7pH-L.jpg


i-BsNZfSq-L.jpg


Mind you, I do have an issue with quality control ... the paint wearing off the fairing, the frame and the engine :eek:

i-w6kgrgc-L.jpg


i-LMSCfcq-L.jpg


i-zQNCNxB-L.jpg


Dunno why JJH carps on about bloody tubed tyres ... had about four pictures in the the last ten years, all easily sorted and never left stranded :D

Tubes and chains aint what they used to be back in the sixties :rob

:beerjug:

That bike is a absolute credit to you. I had a gsa version for approx 2 years and coverd approx 56,000 km with no problems. I loved the bike and might still have it but for the tyers. 4 punctures and I just fed up with repairing them on the side of the road. 1 in particular sticks out as I chose to ride it 100 yards to get off a motorway to a garage. I ruined the tube which left me stranded. Yes I know I could carry a tube but I felt I was carting enough stuff around with all tools nessessary for front and rear wheel removal tyer levers little compressor and repair kit. While I usually could repair a puncture on the side of the road it was taking me about half an hour or so. In contrast when I got a puncture in the back wheel of my 1200 I found 2 nails. 5 minutes later I was on my way. Previous experience with tubes leeds me to believe that tubeless is better. They are easier to fix in a puncture and a lot less lightly to suffer a sudden failure as a tube can. Now I know some people will say that tubes are better for off road well I don't know because I don't go off road but my answer is if the wheel is tubeless you can still put a tube in it if you want to. JJH
 
Thanks :thumb

I will concur that tubeless tyres are much less of a faff when it comes to punctures, but it wouldn't stop me from having the 'bike I want :thumb

:beerjug:

Tube tyres do have an advantage if you ride off road. If you dent the rim you can carry on. With tubeless it can be game over!
 
Tube tyres do have an advantage if you ride off road. If you dent the rim you can carry on. With tubeless it can be game over!

We all know that most of the time these type of bike are never off road. If you want to take one off road you have the option to put a tube in if you feel that it would be beneficial. On tube type rims you don't have the option to run without tubes unless you spend a fair bit of money. JJH
 
We all know that most of the time these type of bike are never off road. If you want to take one off road you have the option to put a tube in if you feel that it would be beneficial. On tube type rims you don't have the option to run without tubes unless you spend a fair bit of money. JJH

Yes, quite a bit of money and to me, money well spent.

Or was it ?

Not had a puncture since buying the Alpina wheelset, but maybe it's not about how much I've spent and more about the peace of mind I have. ;) Besides, they look sooooo cool. :D

In all honesty, if I went out and bought an 800GS, I'd most likely buy another set of Alpinas. Or wait for the new 850/900GS to be released as the spy pics seen so far show tubeless wheels fitted as standard. :thumb
 

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Yes, quite a bit of money and to me, money well spent.

Or was it ?

Not had a puncture since buying the Alpina wheelset, but maybe it's not about how much I've spent and more about the peace of mind I have. ;) Besides, they look sooooo cool. :D

In all honesty, if I went out and bought an 800GS, I'd most likely buy another set of Alpinas. Or wait for the new 850/900GS to be released as the spy pics seen so far show tubeless wheels fitted as standard. :thumb

Just as a matter of interest how much did they cost? And what soloution do they have for the spokes. JJH
 
I've sold my last GS, no problem. You pay finance off, sell it privately, regain your capital, you will alway get more back by selling privately than dealer will offer you in PX. Remember that the value of your bike looses -20% the moment it leaves showroom (VAT)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No it doesn't......... :blast
 
Just as a matter of interest how much did they cost? And what soloution do they have for the spokes. JJH

A set of Alpinas are a salty £1650...ish. Not cheap, tho' cheaper than others offerings. Cheapest option is turning your own wheels into tubeless by the likes of an Outex kit. The disadvantage to that solution is there's no safety beads on either rim to hold the tyre on should you get a puncture. On the other hand, you would get more of a warning than the rapid deflation you get with tubes.

The Alpina spokes use elastomers (think O rings, but better) on each spoke to seal the air in. Their website is worth a look for the fine detail.
 
Just as a matter of interest how much did they cost? And what soloution do they have for the spokes. JJH

Here is the link - their website includes a configurator function for Alpina ...........http://www.alpina-wheels.com/

However, whilst it obviously works OK, quite how they make the things airtight seems a bit opaque. Hopefully DavyF can enlighten us............. Good, he has!
 
Hope this "spoked wheel" stuff is helping Cabbie with his forthcoming financial decision. :blagblah:)
 


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