Clutch replacement required, but why?

chopperT

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My new to me 2000 1150GS (40000km) was flaring under high load in 5th/6th gear, between 5-6000rpm. I figured it wasn't going to get better so pulled the trans and checked the clutch. It's all dry, 6.1mm thickness on the friction plate, and the pressure plates still show original machining marks, so not worn. However they are very polished, glazed even. The friction disc looks glazed too.
I'm thinking that rather than having been given a hard time the clutch was nursed/slipped a little a lot, if you see what I mean. Anyone seen this before?
Anyway, new friction plate and spring on the way, and I'll give the solid plates a light glass bead to bring them up.
I'm very glad I disregarded the Haynes manual and just followed my nose. It was a lot less work!

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If its glazed Id suggest it was caused by a badly adjusted clutch actuator/cable causing it to slip when under load
 
Well yes, so new diaphragm spring ordered. That fitted date stamped '99, original fit I guess. And Hydraulic clutch. so no "adjustment" as such.
 
Bit of the thread hijack, hope no one minds, but as i've a query re another clutch issue i thought i'd add it here.
Been out on my 850 again today and my clutch is getting to the point where it bites right at the end of the levers travel. I'd normally guess this suggests i'm due a clutch change. Its a 2000 with 49k, ridden pretty hard by me since about 22k. But, theres no sign of any slippage, even when ragged pretty hard. Coming home earlier by myself I gave it some pretty harsh abuse to see if i could get it to slip, but nothing.
Is it worth looking at anything else before pulling the box off and fitting a new clutch? Could the cable have stretched with age,? There's no slack in it. Or did i read somewhere that the 1100's, that the 850's are based on, suffers from an issue with the actuating lever at the box end of thngs?
 
You ask why. Could be something pressing against clutch lever like muffs. The higher the speed the more pressure on lever and the more slip. JJH
 
You ask why. Could be something pressing against clutch lever like muffs. The higher the speed the more pressure on lever and the more slip. JJH


theres no slip.
just biting near end of travel.

….hello littledumptruck.:beerjug:

If there isn't any adjustment left then it can't hurt to buy a new cable first.

see if that improves things.

Failing that then either your clutch plate is probably nearly worn out or the pressure plate or both……not a horrendous job to do yourself.
 
theres no slip.
just biting near end of travel.

….hello littledumptruck.:beerjug:

If there isn't any adjustment left then it can't hurt to buy a new cable first.

see if that improves things.

Failing that then either your clutch plate is probably nearly worn out or the pressure plate or both……not a horrendous job to do yourself.

Hi Charles, I think jjh was replying to the op, time mark suggests he was replying as I was adding my post.
But I'm thinking it wouldnt hurt to try a new cable, bearing in mind its age. But I've a niggle that says I've read something about bent or worn clutch actuation levers on the 11's.
How'd youre ride to Abingdon go?
 
Hi Charles, I think jjh was replying to the op, time mark suggests he was replying as I was adding my post.
But I'm thinking it wouldnt hurt to try a new cable, bearing in mind its age. But I've a niggle that says I've read something about bent or worn clutch actuation levers on the 11's.
How'd youre ride to Abingdon go?

pmmed you.
sorry jjh my attention wandered,:blast
 
takes about 4 hrs to get the box out.

just take lots of photos of wire runs and connector positions.
steptoe has a tutorial here somewhere that I've followed both times I've taken the box out.
Not a difficult job at all.:beerjug:
 
I'm thinking replace everything. JJH

It's a false economy to change parts of the clutch and not others. Whilst you've got it to bits I'd recommend changing the whole clutch assembly (as suggested by Steptoe, the guru) otherwise you're more likely to have to do it all again much sooner.
 
It's a false economy to change parts of the clutch and not others. Whilst you've got it to bits I'd recommend changing the whole clutch assembly (as suggested by Steptoe, the guru) otherwise you're more likely to have to do it all again much sooner.

thats why I've done mine twice:blast
 
Gailed rubber bonding on a driveshaft gives the same symptoms as a slipping clutch...., also the clutch cover plate and pressure both wear so pointless just replacing the friction plate.
 
The drive shaft rubber looks mint, so good there I think. As I said the machining marks are visible on the pressure and cover plates, so any wear there is minimal. Heck, even the friction plate is barely worn, just everything is polished like glass.
 
Bit of the thread hijack, hope no one minds, but as i've a query re another clutch issue i thought i'd add it here.
Been out on my 850 again today and my clutch is getting to the point where it bites right at the end of the levers travel. I'd normally guess this suggests i'm due a clutch change. Its a 2000 with 49k, ridden pretty hard by me since about 22k. But, theres no sign of any slippage, even when ragged pretty hard. Coming home earlier by myself I gave it some pretty harsh abuse to see if i could get it to slip, but nothing.
Is it worth looking at anything else before pulling the box off and fitting a new clutch? Could the cable have stretched with age,? There's no slack in it. Or did i read somewhere that the 1100's, that the 850's are based on, suffers from an issue with the actuating lever at the box end of thngs?

Before panicking about anything, adjust it first. There are two ways to adjust it. At the actuation lever, then you can make fine adjustments at the handlebar. Cables do stretch and as the clutch wears the bit point moves.

The actuation lever problem, as far as i am aware, suffers from occasional snapping, rather than bending.

I liked the 850 I had, nice bike. I did 100,000 miles on mine. Now on a R1150GSA.
 


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