extra adjustment on the gear lever

LBL

Registered user
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
1,960
Reaction score
0
Location
Middlesex, England
Hi All,

Has anyone made any further adjustment on the rods on the gear lever, i have brought a set of BMW lowered pegs due to a hip problem which has helped, so the pegs lower by 20mm but the swivel section at the end will only move about 10mm, see pic, therefore, the extra 10mm means either stretching up with your foot to change up or removing your foot off the peg to change down. Ive not got a full response yet from my dealer but seems it cant be altered.

So has anyone done this. I know i can buy Gilles levers but again they foul if you move it down to the lowest setting.
 

Attachments

  • s-l1600.jpg
    s-l1600.jpg
    147.6 KB · Views: 634
I adjusted the lever on my GS (doesn't have the tip adjustment) by using the threaded rod, mine also has shift assist and everything works fine.
 
I've got lowered pegs too. It's a "suck it and see" exercise. Adjust. Ride. Adjust. Ride. What better excuse do you need.
 
Sorry i forgot to say mine is a 66 plate GSA, i believe it isnt the same as a GS. My question is can the GSA rods be adjusted.
 
Take the small adjustment rod out, hacksaw 5mm off each end, Bob's your uncle. I did it with mine after fitting an aftermarket shift lever which needed to be lower.
 
I had a similar problem last year when a back injury meant that I lost much of my ability to tip my foot upwards with enough strength to change gear. I used up the maximum range on the threaded rod adjusting the pedal downwards but I still had to lift my whole foot off the rest to change gear. In the end I fitted a thick rubber sleeve (cut from an old footrest rubber off a Brit bike) over the gear change pedal and this allowed me to change gear without taking my foot off the foot rest. Might be worth you trying something similar?
 
Get this. It's absolutely brilliant and has massively improved the quality of the gearshift because of the free-rotating toe peg which is on ball bearings. So instead of the toepeg dragging against your boot, it just rolls. Apart from the big range of adjustability, gearshifts are actually smoother. One of the best upgrades I've made to the bike.

34052043930_c6d6042507_z.jpg
 
Thanks guys but I need to lower the gear lever, adding things to the gear shift means it's higher on the top which is the problem. Again I've looked at the wunderlich one but it doesn't go low enough
 
It still has the same movement on the if about 10mm which is the same as the stock one, hence why adapting the original is the only way.

Thanks for all the effort though guys
 
It still has the same movement on the if about 10mm which is the same as the stock one, hence why adapting the original is the only way.

Thanks for all the effort though guys

You can also do this it works fine, if the threaded shaft is too short you can order a K1200GT shaft and it is 1/2" or so longer.
 
take your original lever to a commercial vehicle bodybuilder, cut it and reweld to desired angle with some strenthening as well. not difficult is it? :D
 
Personally I think this is getting complicated..
bmw fit the adjustable rod as standard to adjust for differing feet/shoe/boot thicknesses..
Crack off the 2 10mm just with an open end spanner, turn the rod a few turns & you'll see the lever move, find desired position & tighten up locknuts..

Good luck
 
Get this. It's absolutely brilliant and has massively improved the quality of the gearshift because of the free-rotating toe peg which is on ball bearings. So instead of the toepeg dragging against your boot, it just rolls. Apart from the big range of adjustability, gearshifts are actually smoother. One of the best upgrades I've made to the bike.

34052043930_c6d6042507_z.jpg

looks great apart from the 1p crimp terminal:blast
 


Back
Top Bottom