Final Drive plug

Onahi · Aug 20, 2017

This time last week. I thought I'd change my final drive oil. (6K) A five minute cheap job ive done many times before. However, I snapped the filler screw doing it up. Ordered another from my local dealer at £1:20.
Today, A mate popped in for coffee on his bike. I offered him the opportunity to change his.
A five minute job. However, We snapped his filler plug too

Good job we managed to get the threads out. (Was using a torque wrench set to 20Nm)
My 1150 had the same filler plug for 14 years whilst I owned it, with a new crush washer every time. The 12's plugs are shite.
But reading here and there, it is suggested to change the plug every time too ?
Pfft

fredaroony · Aug 20, 2017

I've never had a problem in the 3 times I've changed it. Might want to get your torque wrench checked

Fullchat · Aug 20, 2017

Many FJR owners have had issues with sump drain plugs. The recommended manufacturers torque settings are way over what they should be in reality. I rarely use a torque wrench on such things. Snug tight is the recommended setting. Of course if you do use a torque wrench the threads should be dry. Lube in the threads will require more load to achieve the same torque and the threads/bolt may give way first.

tanneman · Aug 20, 2017

So you knackered 2 bikes without consulting a manual after the first one :blast

CPJS · Aug 20, 2017

Fullchat said:
ing. Of course if you do use a torque wrench the threads should be dry. Lube in the threads will require more load to achieve the same torque and the threads/bolt may give way first.

It is the other way round, lubed threads need a reduced torque setting (less load) because of the lack of drag of a dry thread.

Warlord · Aug 20, 2017

Very useful info, thanks. Due to change mine soon.

Cheers for the heads up.

fs996 · Aug 20, 2017

CPJS said:
It is the other way round, lubed threads need a reduced torque setting (less load) because of the lack of drag of a dry thread.

You're both basically saying exactly the same thing here...

Santa-2512 · Aug 20, 2017

Did mine up monday. no probs,

i was more worried about the 100Nm bolt, as i have heard they can snap ... both were fine

Smug · Aug 20, 2017

Used to be never trust a mechanic with hammers in the top of his tool box.

Perhaps it should be never trust a mechanic who has to use a torque wrench on a filler screw. :blast

Onahi · Aug 21, 2017

tanneman said:
So you knackered 2 bikes without consulting a manual after the first one

Can you show me please where in the manual it states anything ?
Or Anything different to what I've always done being a BMW GS owner for over 17 years ?
Thanks for pointing this out. I must have missed it ?

Kenny Rodkiss · Aug 21, 2017

You set Lbs ft instead of Nm.?

tanneman · Aug 21, 2017

QRF said:
Can you show me please where in the manual it states anything ?
Or Anything different to what I've always done being a BMW GS owner for over 17 years ?
Thanks for pointing this out. I must have missed it ?

You probably did miss it but some logic should have told you in the back of your mind something is not right. Rarely have I come to manual that has wrong info in it (current job excluded

) so I will dispense with some hard earned experience as I don't know what your ability or education is.

If not stated then it is a dry torque. Wet torque spec will tell you what to lubricate the threads with. For that reason I keep electrical contact cleaner (similar cleaning fluids will do), very handy in such applications to make sure the thread is dry. A thin film of lubricant in the threads will increase the torque value. There are a few guides and you can buy a manual online as a CD. Jim Von Baden has good guides and worth a bit of Google for the you tube videos.

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead.html

At the bottom of the page is a link to the torque value spreadsheet.
As a learning experience here is a video to help you next time.

I worked on helicopters for a long time and getting the torque right is crucial. Not something you want to find out when you depend on your own work. Of course some mechanics don't take such care with cars and bikes but none the less it is good practise to do it right.

Tinker but don't tinker it fucked. Now that you have the link to other step by step videos there is no excuse.

Onahi · Aug 22, 2017

My question was.
Can you show where "in the manual" it is covered ?

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Onahi · Aug 22, 2017

I'm confident of my knowledge and competence when working on this bike or any other.
Over the last 17 years I've lost count of the final drive oils I've changed without any problems at all.
Two fasteners failing within a week just seems a little strange.

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tanneman · Aug 22, 2017

Off course, same with my 11S (basically a downsized high performance 1150 engine and running gear) on which I do most of the maintenance myself. The JVB page bottom link takes you to a PDF file from the BMW service manual. There is no symbol to indicate a wet torque. Haven't heard of changing the plugs every time and looking at my service records have not been charged for such an item. Hmm curious as who said it should be. There should be no difference between all the R types and K12/1300's regarding this final drive casing or the filler screw. The torque specified should not stretch the material beyond its elastic range and even then there is an allowance for the tolerance in calibration. However it is known that the softer material will degrade (in this case the threads appear to spread) after repetitive manipulation (read unscrewing, tightening, applying torque). Then again you can also argue that how many GS LC's has been serviced by the dealers without knackering the filler plug? For clarity you can always give the dealer a call when unsure. Not come across one who would not dispense with sound advice.

Put it under school fees. We have all been there.

Onahi · Aug 22, 2017

Just had my torque wrench checked digitally. Is actually 2nm under. So I can count that out. Ill stick with poor quality fasteners. Backed with my 17 year experience on BMW GS's. I could write a manual.

Steptoe · Aug 22, 2017

QRF said:
Two fasteners failing within a week just seems a little strange.

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Think man, think... What's the common denominator between these rare and strange incidents.

Onahi · Aug 22, 2017

Steptoe said:
Think man, think... What's the common denominator between these rare and strange incidents.

The torque wrench. I know. But I've had the torque checked and its fine. My screw ripped the soft hex fitting, My mates snapped the thread. To Make it clear. I didn't actually do my mates. So it wasn't me

And ..... My 1150 (14 years) and 15 Plate GSA was always fine .
Tell me Neil, Tell me ?

Daffy · Aug 22, 2017

QRF said:
Just had my torque wrench checked digitally. Is actually 2nm under. So I can count that out. Ill stick with poor quality fasteners. Backed with my 17 year experience on BMW GS's. I could write a manual.

So if a manual doesn't exist and you could write it...

With my brains and your talent we could be set up for life

Onahi · Aug 22, 2017

Daffy said:
So if a manual doesn't exist and you could write it...

With my brains and your talent we could be set up for life

I've got a paypal account.... Lets do it.

Final Drive plug

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