Fuel Strip Emulator from HP Oskam engineering in the Netherlands

The warning triangle is there because the bike ECU is seeing low fuel level. The spoof/emulator makes the system see the values for a full tank so no more warning triangle. Assuming there are no other faults of course.

The low volts reading on the heater circuit could be a short circuit or some other over current. What happens when a 35 Ohm resistor is put across contacts 1 and 4 on the wiring loom connector?

You could also trace the loom back to the ECU and look for chafed wires.


The heater circuit is 35 Ohms. maybe the canbus refuses to put power down until it "sees" the line resistance.

The fuel level reads as empty when the sensing circuit goes open. That's enough to raise the warning triangle. It's possible the broken heater circuit will do the same but you seem to have ruled that out.

With the tank off I've checked all wiring back to the ZFE/CPU and no chafed wiring. I'm still getting 35ohms across pins 1 and 4 on the fuel strip connector. The continuity all appears fine so far too.
 
35 ohm between pins 1 and 4 is correct - that's the strip heater. Resistance between pins 2 and 3 should be around 2K ohm for full fuel tank but I'm struggling to get a correct value as my strip is broken. I believe the value goes higher of as tank is filled - more of the strip/tape is warmed so resistance rises.

The guys on AdvRider (who created the everlasting full tank) also put a 1 Meg ohm resistor between pins 3 and 4. For some reason the ZFE could not see the fuel strip without that bias resistor.

I've ordred a 5K potentiometer to have a fiddle about with the fuel level settings. With luck I'll be able to select any level I like.

The copper track sensing strip inside the fuel strip/tape is much finer than the heater strip. I suspect the mylar plastic expansion/contraction cracks the fine copper track and the sensor stops working.
 
35 ohm between pins 1 and 4 is correct - that's the strip heater. Resistance between pins 2 and 3 should be around 2K ohm for full fuel tank but I'm struggling to get a correct value as my strip is broken. I believe the value goes higher of as tank is filled - more of the strip/tape is warmed so resistance rises.

The guys on AdvRider (who created the everlasting full tank) also put a 1 Meg ohm resistor between pins 3 and 4. For some reason the ZFE could not see the fuel strip without that bias resistor.

I've ordred a 5K potentiometer to have a fiddle about with the fuel level settings. With luck I'll be able to select any level I like.

The copper track sensing strip inside the fuel strip/tape is much finer than the heater strip. I suspect the mylar plastic expansion/contraction cracks the fine copper track and the sensor stops working.

My fuel strip isnt reading any ohms between pins 2 and 3.
I tested henks emulator unit on its own and it has 39 ohms between 1 & 4, and just over 2k ohms between 2 & 3.
I still get the empty warning lights on the dash when its plugged into the fuel strip connector though. Very odd.
 
Your fuel strip is doing what most of them do. The sensing track has fractured so reads zero. It's broken. A new strip will read 2K ohms when dry (empty).

Henk's device needs a Twin Cam Hexhead float fitting to the fuel pump and that is wired via his emulator to the original cable connector. The 2K between pins 2 and 3 will then increase as fuel level rises. The ZFE gets what it needs and you have working fuel gauge again.

BTW,
(1) What does Henk's device show between pins 2 and 3 when the float is at full tank level?
(2) Does Henk's device have a 1 Megohm resistance between pins 3 and 4 with infinity between pins 1 and 2?
 
Your fuel strip is doing what most of them do. The sensing track has fractured so reads zero. It's broken. A new strip will read 2K ohms when dry (empty).

Henk's device needs a Twin Cam Hexhead float fitting to the fuel pump and that is wired via his emulator to the original cable connector. The 2K between pins 2 and 3 will then increase as fuel level rises. The ZFE gets what it needs and you have working fuel gauge again.

BTW,
(1) What does Henk's device show between pins 2 and 3 when the float is at full tank level?
(2) Does Henk's device have a 1 Megohm resistance between pins 3 and 4 with infinity between pins 1 and 2?
Sorry Bendy, I bought one of Henks spoofing emulators for 50 euros. He stopped making the float conversion emulators before I could buy one. My ohm readings are static.
Here's a photo of it.
91104af2dd2fe2aaac65422d4e393148.jpg


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The circuit for spoofing the ECU (on the end of the cable connector) is -

35 Ohm between 1 and 4
2K Ohm between 2 and 3
1Meg Ohm between 3 and 4

You can do it with 1A resistors (the 1Meg can be 0.25A) and some self amalgamating tape.

If the ZFE/ECU is not seeing it, you might need to clear the fault codes with a GS-911.
 
The circuit for spoofing the ECU is

35 Ohm between 1 and 4
2K Ohm between 2 and 3
1Meg Ohm between 3 and 4

You can do it with 1A resistors (the 1Meg can be 0.25A) and some self amalgamating tape.

If the ZFE/ECU is not seeing it, you might need to clear the fault codes with a GS-911.
Ah, ok. So Henks spoofer is the correct resistance. It's my bike not seeing it.
Here's the fault screen photo.
954988c74f292a574d1b6697df9339d6.jpg


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Try a 1 Meg resistor between pins 3 and 4. The guys on AdvRider (who worked out the spoof circuit) had all sorts of odd things happening. It turned out their cheap voltmeter was doing the job of a high resistance between those pins.
 
Try a 1 Meg resistor between pins 3 and 4. The guys on AdvRider (who worked out the spoof circuit) had all sorts of odd things happening. It turned out their cheap voltmeter was doing the job of a high resistance between those pins.

Are you saying my voltmeter is too cheap?

21b8b97ceddb514367273ced8ad16f2f.jpg


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Last edited:
The circuit for spoofing the ECU (on the end of the cable connector) is -

35 Ohm between 1 and 4
2K Ohm between 2 and 3
1Meg Ohm between 3 and 4

You can do it with 1A resistors (the 1Meg can be 0.25A) and some self amalgamating tape.

If the ZFE/ECU is not seeing it, you might need to clear the fault codes with a GS-911.
Checked again. Henks spoofer is 39 ohm between 1 and 4.
2k between 2 and 3.
And 1 meg ohm between 3 and 4 (and 1 and 2)

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Henk will have spent time working out how the ZFE works. However this is what the the guys on AdvRider.com did to spoof the full tank. They have a 1 Meg between 3 and 4 but NOT between 1 and 2. All done for a few pennies and you only need to solder the resistor wires. The legs are just pushed into the connector pins and then wrapped in tape.

Edit - mine has 35 ohm between pins 3 and 4 (heater circuit).

a87741ca83dd7e5b0b6503118f28b349.jpg


517464570cb1f959224b32bbe86b5606.jpg
 
On your photo you are showing the 1.0M resistor and the 2.0K resistor wired opposite to your sketch ?
 
On your photo you are showing the 1.0M resistor and the 2.0K resistor wired opposite to your sketch ?

Both are from the AdvRider discussion I've not checked the veracity by trying on my bike. There was another image (probably lost on Photobucket) that agreed with the sketch.

I'm waiting for components to arrive to test it out, but they definitely had only one 1Meg resistor acting as a bias.
 
Ok, Just that when I was at college ( although that was many years ago) Brown - Black - Green - Red was 1.0M at 2%
Red - Black - Red - Red was 2.0K at 2%
 
I learned the colours for an exam and forgot them again.

The guys who discovered the spoof circuit began with the 40ish ohm (35 in my case) for the heater. They found the 2K dry sensor value by trial and error. It still refused to work. Then one chap noticed that it worked when he clipped a cheap multimeter across pins 3 and 4. An expensive Fluke did nothing. The ZFE needs that small voltage bias from the 1 meg resistor and hey presto - the ever lasting full petrol tank.

My dead fuel strip shows infinity between pins 1-2 and pins 3-4. It's also blown the 2K sensor so pretty useless for information.
 
Could you not put a pot inline and read the base resistance, move the pot and watch the fuel strip rise or fall?

once you have a value make it with resitors ??
 
I ordered the resistors and built the Adv Rider spoof circuit for my '07 GSA after I got fed up zapping a few months ago.

I built the circuit exactly by the drawing with the spec of resistors off the drawing too. After I made it I tested it on the bike and within the 20 / 30 seconds previously mentioned the low level fuel warning light went out and the fuel gauge read full tank. I then immersed all the resistors in hardening resin before then plugging back into the bike when it had set hard. This solution has worked well over the past few months for me with no issues, no warning lights & full fuel gauge.

The resistors must have cost me less than a fiver in total to buy but it was a faff to solder together, leaving enough wire to plug into the bike's circuitry and then completely insulate in resin but the result has been worth it for me.

If you want one of each of the three resistors I am using for research Bendy just PM me - I still have at least one of each and will post you a set for free if you need them and it would help......
 
Sadly my ZFE doesn't seem to 'see' the unit I bought from Henk.
I'll just have to live with warnings flashing.
Ill put the unit on eBay at a knock down price, then hopefully sometime soon Bendy will come up with the ultimate solution.

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I ordered the resistors and built the Adv Rider spoof circuit for my '07 GSA after I got fed up zapping a few months ago.

I built the circuit exactly by the drawing with the spec of resistors off the drawing too. After I made it I tested it on the bike and within the 20 / 30 seconds previously mentioned the low level fuel warning light went out and the fuel gauge read full tank. I then immersed all the resistors in hardening resin before then plugging back into the bike when it had set hard. This solution has worked well over the past few months for me with no issues, no warning lights & full fuel gauge.

The resistors must have cost me less than a fiver in total to buy but it was a faff to solder together, leaving enough wire to plug into the bike's circuitry and then completely insulate in resin but the result has been worth it for me.

If you want one of each of the three resistors I am using for research Bendy just PM me - I still have at least one of each and will post you a set for free if you need them and it would help......
I'm assuming Maplins or similar will sell these resistors.

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