Fuel Strip Emulator from HP Oskam engineering in the Netherlands

flo3flo

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Hello all. I am one of the thousands of GS owners whos fuel strip has failed, permanently showing an empty tank and a yellow warning light.
Last week I bought one of Henk Oskam's Fuel Strip Emulators from the Netherlands. He no longer ships to the UK but luckily I have friend who sent it to me.
It arrived today but did not make any difference.

I very much doubt Henks unit is faulty, although I have emailed him.

Is there a chance that the wiring from the tank/fuel pump back to the ECU is faulty. Is there a way I can test this? (what readings should the four wires be producing at the fuel-strip-connector-block end.)

Cheers.
Flo
 
No.
I bought the emulator, not the converter.
The emulator fools the onboard computer into thinking the tank is full.
 
Heater element voltage

I have spoken with Henk Oskam regarding my issue.

His emulator is working fine following some tests with my multi meter.

He asked me to check the voltage on the two outer pins of the connector that normally plugs into the fuel strip. This should read 5.5volts every 20 seconds with ignition on. Then drops again for 20 seconds.

This voltage operates the fuel strip heater element on a working strip (and runs Henks emulator).

However on my bike, the voltage never rises above 0.07 volts. It also remains at this level the whole time the ignition is switched on. This obviously drops to zero volts after about 30 seconds of the ignition being switched off.

Hopefully Bendy Toy will be along in a minute and explain why my bike is doing this.

Henk thinks my ECU/computer may be faulty. .......Hope not.
 
Just a thought.
I assume that you left the ignition on for a few minutes.
After zapping fuel strips I have had to leave the ignition on for several minutes on some bikes before the gauge suddenly returns to life.
You could try resetting the adaptations in the ECU, or disconnect the battery for a few minutes.
 
Just a thought.
I assume that you left the ignition on for a few minutes.
After zapping fuel strips I have had to leave the ignition on for several minutes on some bikes before the gauge suddenly returns to life.
You could try resetting the adaptations in the ECU, or disconnect the battery for a few minutes.
Thanks for this. I will try it.
When my fuel strip failed the first ever time I got a fault code for it. I cleared it with my gs-911 and it has never come back. Although the triangle and flashing fuel sign has never stopped!


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The warning triangle is there because the bike ECU is seeing low fuel level. The spoof/emulator makes the system see the values for a full tank so no more warning triangle. Assuming there are no other faults of course.

The low volts reading on the heater circuit could be a short circuit or some other over current. What happens when a 35 Ohm resistor is put across contacts 1 and 4 on the wiring loom connector?

You could also trace the loom back to the ECU and look for chafed wires.
 
Well, Ive reset all of the adaptations in the ECU using my GS-911 but the fuel strip heater voltage stays at 0.07 volts. I can bring up the real time values of the fuel strip on my laptop which also shows the 0.07 heater voltage and the 0.00 volts fuel strip voltage (both with ignition on and engine running)
No new fault codes for it though. Not since the first time it failed 18 months ago.
And no other faults found.

Bendy, I dont have a resistor. What is meant to happen if I put one across pins 1 and 4.
Henk told me that his emulator, when plugged in, should show up the bottom fuel gauge bar, indicating the heater element current. Unfortunately my bike simply isnt sending it any more that the 0.07 volts!!

I'll have to try and trace the wiring back to my ECU this winter.
Thanks for your advice.
Flo.
 
The heater circuit is 35 Ohms. maybe the canbus refuses to put power down until it "sees" the line resistance.

The fuel level reads as empty when the sensing circuit goes open. That's enough to raise the warning triangle. It's possible the broken heater circuit will do the same but you seem to have ruled that out.
 
The heater circuit is 35 Ohms. maybe the canbus refuses to put power down until it "sees" the line resistance.

The fuel level reads as empty when the sensing circuit goes open. That's enough to raise the warning triangle. It's possible the broken heater circuit will do the same but you seem to have ruled that out.

Ok thanks for this.

It's all a bit baffling.
When I use the GS-911 to run the fuel strip heater element through a full cycle (in one of it's output tests) I can see the GS-911 flashing which indicates it's asking the ECU to sent the 5.5volts to the fuel strip connector, but all i get is 0.07 volts!!
 
Check the heater output between pins 38 & 39 at the ZFE ECU, (The ZFE only has one plug).
Also would be an opportunity to check continuity between 38 & 39 and the outer 2 pins on the fuel strip plug.
A test to ground with the ZFE plug out would be uesfull.
I normally use a 50w load when doing continuity test on cables as a digital multi meter does not generate enough load to show up some faults.
 
Check the heater output between pins 38 & 39 at the ZFE ECU, (The ZFE only has one plug).
Also would be an opportunity to check continuity between 38 & 39 and the outer 2 pins on the fuel strip plug.
A test to ground with the ZFE plug out would be uesfull.
I normally use a 50w load when doing continuity test on cables as a digital multi meter does not generate enough load to show up some faults.

Thank you. I'll do these tests too.
Cheers.
 
Check the heater output between pins 38 & 39 at the ZFE ECU, (The ZFE only has one plug).
Also would be an opportunity to check continuity between 38 & 39 and the outer 2 pins on the fuel strip plug.
A test to ground with the ZFE plug out would be uesfull.
I normally use a 50w load when doing continuity test on cables as a digital multi meter does not generate enough load to show up some faults.

Depends on what ZFE is fitted, they can have 2 plugs, if its a high version
 
The Mk1 and Mk2 bikes have one connector to the fuel strip and one to the fuel pump. Fuel strip has four wires. Pump has three wires.
 
Check the heater output between pins 38 & 39 at the ZFE ECU, (The ZFE only has one plug).
Also would be an opportunity to check continuity between 38 & 39 and the outer 2 pins on the fuel strip plug.
A test to ground with the ZFE plug out would be uesfull.
I normally use a 50w load when doing continuity test on cables as a digital multi meter does not generate enough load to show up some faults.

I checked pins 38 & 39 at the ZFE end and the continuity is spot on. No chafed wires that i can see anywhere.
And no leaks to ground (with ZFE unplugged)
I'm getting .714 ohms resistence across pins 38 & 39 on the ZFE itself (although my multimeter is very basic)
Cheers
 
I checked pins 38 & 39 at the ZFE end and the continuity is spot on. No chafed wires that i can see anywhere.
And no leaks to ground (with ZFE unplugged)
I'm getting .714 ohms resistence across pins 38 & 39 on the ZFE itself (although my multimeter is very basic)
Cheers

Whats your ZFE part number ??
 
Whats your ZFE part number ??
I thinks it's 6135 7713299
But here's a photo.
6dd1a8f92f61012abef3f36fc9090d6c.jpg


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Voltmeter looks like open circuit to the ZFE. Put a 35 Ohm resistor between pins 1 and 4 at the fuel strip plug and measure volts to earth. The ZFE should see this as the strip heater and put power down.

However, the guys on AdvRider who worked out the full tank spoof circuit said it needed a bias voltage. Simply adding a 2K resistor between pins 2 and 3 did not work.

I tried to break off the epoxy posting on the fuel strip to wires connector circuit, but its was as hard as glass and I eventually shattered the circuit board.

We need the resistance values from a good working strip between pins 2 and 3 also between pins 3 & 4 and pins 1 & 2. Correct resistance between pins 1 and 4 is 35 ohm.

The pins are close spaced so push a thicker stranded wire onto each pin. You can them easily attach a load and test from the free wire's free ends.
 
Google "Opis montaæu pàywaka by Robo v1.3.pdf"

will find a Polish document describing a circuit that allows a Seat Leon or BMW twin cam float sender.

It's adjustable but allows the fuel strip ZFE to work with a float. From what I can deduce (from that and the stuff on AdvRider) the ZFE needs to see 2K ohm at the level resistor to read full and 2.2K to read empty.

The calibration using GS-911 (etc) is to set the reserve light position. The tank is filled with 5 litres of petrol and the reading is used to set the low fuel warning light.

The Polish guys believe the fuel strips fail because thermal expansion and cracks the sensing resistor's copper track. The heater track is wider and presumably stronger. Plastic expands more than metal.
 


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