Assault on battery

That sounds really dodgy.
The battery seems to have at least one weak cell. I’m surprised the ECU can operate at 6V.
Running voltage is def too high. Mine shows 14.2 on lead acid 14.4 on lithium.
Disconnect the bike battery and try it with jump leads to the car battery. That should prove if the alternator is ok.
It’s possible the weak battery allows the charging volts to surge. But as you say over volts will kill a lithium.
 
So, got to Friday evening and what better way to relax than running a few voltage checks...
Resting battery - 13.4v
Cold engine start - drops to 6v (!) But starts
Running on tick over 16v to 17v (!!) Does this indicate a knackered alternator/ regulator?

I wouldn't be happy to connect a lithium battery to this voltage as everything I've read says they die above 15v.....


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Your 'at rest' voltage is high (12.6 nominal)
Your charging voltage is also high.

Are you sure your voltmeter is okay?

Otherwise - you could be boiling your battery. Any casing distortion?

Hook up a car battery instead of the bike one, and see what you get
 
At that voltage the battery would be getting warm. I’d reckon on blowing bulbs quite often. Try a different multimeter first. Get rid of the optimate. I hate them. Bye the way I ride every day~ and I can’t remember ever replacing a battery. JJH
 
Ok, the multimeter is toast. Apparently I have some AA batteries that give out 2.6 volts. New meter on the shopping list tomorrow. Watch this space....


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Ok, the multimeter is toast. Apparently I have some AA batteries that give out 2.6 volts. New meter on the shopping list tomorrow. Watch this space....


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Is that each? I can see a q at your door from battery and car manufacturers. JJH
 
Riding most days will give the battery it's ideal life. Starts are easy (bike was used yesterday). Charge will be saturated when bike is first parked so probably never gets into voltage levels were hard sulphation occurs. Alternators also last longer. Disuse, allows the winding cores to rust and crack.

Anyone using bike every other week at weekends and storing for long periods should consider a Lithium or accept that batteries will be consumables. A cheapie replaced every other year will be fine. A lithium makes even more sense when you don't have power to the garage.
 
I'm having similar starting issues when the bike is hot and re-started.....

It's an Odyssey battery and the bike (2010 GSA TC) has 73,000 miles on it....

Starts first time every time from cold, including leaving it for a week..... If I''m out on it and for instance stop for a photo.... and try to re-start it , It almost doesn't go over the first turn of the crank, then bursts into life.....

I've read as much as I can on here, and just checked with a Multimeter.

Engine off 12.6 volts
Cranking it drops to 10 volts, which was consistent in the garage for 5 attempts, and none of them showed the symptoms I've been getting out on the road :confused:

14.4 volts when ticking over .......
 
Odyssey batteries have been known to cause problems with PowerCommanders (mod 3) on starting due to the droop characteristic of the battery which can drop the voltage below that which the PC3 requires. (If I remember correctly - 9.0v)

My problem was only resolved by fitting an OEM BMW battery.

So - could the Odysey be dropping the voltage enough not to activate the starting circuitry on the GS?
 
Odyssey batteries have been known to cause problems with PowerCommanders (mod 3) on starting due to the droop characteristic of the battery which can drop the voltage below that which the PC3 requires. (If I remember correctly - 9.0v)

My problem was only resolved by fitting an OEM BMW battery.

So - could the Odysey be dropping the voltage enough not to activate the starting circuitry on the GS?


it was over 10v on each crank ....:confused:
 
it was over 10v on each crank ....:confused:

Yup, I know - but sometimes a DVM isn't quick enough to catch that momentary dip.

Only offering it as a possible avenue. If the Odysey is proven to be healthy - Swap the Odysey for a standard battery and try again.

Al
 
Yup, I know - but sometimes a DVM isn't quick enough to catch that momentary dip.

Only offering it as a possible avenue. If the Odysey is proven to be healthy - Swap the Odysey for a standard battery and try again.

Al

Thanks for that Al. :thumb2
 
Right then, it turns out the dodgy voltages were down to a multimeter with a flat battery. Irony or wot? So I've now fitted two new batteries - a PP3 from Boots in the meter and a slightly more expensive lithium jobby from South Wales. Result is a bike that now hot starts, although I'm still keeping an eye on things, just in case the shiny new battery is masking something wrong with the starter. Thanks for everyone's help and advice on the subject.


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Result!

Be aware that the lithium battery needs a dedicated charger/conditioner.
 
For Gods sake stop messing about replace it, batteries dont fix themselves.
It will let you down big style, and the clever canbus may not let you jump it, happened to me in Dent and the mates I was with had already shot off at high speed never to be seen again:blast
 
For Gods sake stop messing about replace it, batteries dont fix themselves.
It will let you down big style, and the clever canbus may not let you jump it, happened to me in Dent and the mates I was with had already shot off at high speed never to be seen again:blast

Late to the party, eh? :rolleyes:
 
Result!

Be aware that the lithium battery needs a dedicated charger/conditioner.

I keep reading this about lithium batteries. Here's a question though. Once fitted to a bike, the lithium battery gets exactly the same 'type' of charge from the alternator that the old battery got - you don't have to fit a 'lithium specific' alternator. The old battery can be charged, if needed, by one of those simple mains chargers (500mA?) that cost a few quid (as opposed to being kept on a battery tender - Optimate, CTEK etc - which I know can do nasty things to lithium batteries). Can the simple mains charger do the job on the lithium, as I assume it simply replicates what the alternator on the bike does? :confused:

Pete
 
A simple mains charger will take the lithium to 95% charge. No problem. As you say, DONT use an Optimate or conditioning charger because the wake up boost will wreck a lithium.
A lithium special charger will top it up to 100% but as these batteries can give full discharge current to nearly dead flat, that small deficit is no problem.
Lithiums do not suffer when left standing part charged so have no need for a conditioning charger. 10% charge loss over 12 months.
 


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