Abitathis&abitathat

That's strange, as it was bead blasted first:blast
Fuck me I must have wasted £10k on equipment,:comfort
I should have asked for guidance on here first:D:D






FYI,
Aquablasting cleans and seals the surface,leaving a soft sheen that is not powdery and Absorbent like dry blast,so it's far easier to clean and will resist corrosion for longer,
However it will not remove paint deposits or excess corrosion so a dry blast unit is also needed

Only mentioned it because you can still see a lot of dark stains on the finning, which my beadblaster removes.
I won't mention it again if pointing out defects bothers you! :)
 
Only mentioned it because you can still see a lot of dark stains on the finning, which my beadblaster removes.
I won't mention it again if pointing out defects bothers you! :)

The dark stains are pitting marks from corrosion,
What make is your bead blaster?
I might upgrade to one the same if it puts metal back on:D:D
 
The dark stains are pitting marks from corrosion,
What make is your bead blaster?
I might upgrade to one the same if it puts metal back on:D:D

In all seriousness, I do get the same problem with cylinder head fins, sometimes the head has to be blasted 2 or 3 times to get rid of the 'staining'.
If I don't remove it all, I get grief from the customer who thinks I've only spent 5 minutes on it, (if only they knew how long a 100% job takes!).
 
In all seriousness, I do get the same problem with cylinder head fins, sometimes the head has to be blasted 2 or 3 times to get rid of the 'staining'.
If I don't remove it all, I get grief from the customer who thinks I've only spent 5 minutes on it, (if only they knew how long a 100% job takes!).
This is very true,and in all honesty I might not use these cases on this build,I have plenty of better ones.
I prefer the look of early smooth cases so may go down that route yet:thumb
 
Recommend you check the frame straight before going too far with it . . . .

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This was one of the main reasons for blast cleaning,
Any serious damage is easier to spot once blasted.
Distorted head bracing or cracked welds etc.
But yes ,the frame looks straight,with no bad corrosion anywhere,the forks will go in in the next few days so further checks will be done prior to investing too much time on it.:thumby:
 
This was one of the main reasons for blast cleaning,
Any serious damage is easier to spot once blasted.
Distorted head bracing or cracked welds etc.
But yes ,the frame looks straight,with no bad corrosion anywhere,the forks will go in in the next few days so further checks will be done prior to investing too much time on it.:thumby:

Blasting also makes the fabricators job easier.:augie
 
The forks on my R80 G/S are stiffer and better damped than the stock forks on my F650!
Both work with a softly sprung Ohlins on the rear , 400 lb spring on the G/S, 900lb on the F650. Sag is around 65mm front 60mm rear on the G/S, 10 mm less on the F650 , as foot pegs already scrape too easy---------.
The G/S has the stock soft springs fitted to road bikes, stock volume of 5 wt Maxima synth suspension fluid, tubular SJ style lower brace and a SJ billet top triple.
F650 has softish Hagon springs,7 1/2 wt Maxima with 190 air gap and preload adjustable fork caps.
 
If you fit progressive springs and a pair of “intiminator” valves along with lighter oil then yes. Otherwise (if they’re off the twin bike) they will dive like Tom Daley.

These forks have already got hyperpro springs in,they coped fine when fitted to my green lane bike,that had a 27 litre acerbis tank on it,
This bike is going to be a no frills flat tracker,so it won't be heavy.
 
If you fit progressive springs and a pair of “intiminator” valves along with lighter oil then yes. Otherwise (if they’re off the twin bike) they will dive like Tom Daley.

They are not off the twin bike - look like Funduro to me. And as this build is likely WAY lighter out front than the stock funduro I suspect these will be juuuusssst fine for the type of bike.

Funduro/airhead fork swap outs are not that uncomman as they seem to work quite well.
 
No such thing as a spring which is progressive to any meaningful degree, only use for them is to identify those who dont know anything about suspension and like to talk as if they did.
Air is progressive, which is why Hagon recommend you reduce the air gap when you fit their so called progressive springs.
But if it is a flat tracker all it needs is the suspension fitted to European speedway bikes, which is so close to SFA it makes no difference!
 


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