DCT Left Hand Rear Brake Lever ?

crotchrocket · Oct 10, 2017

Having seen a few bits of info on the AT forum and now the video below about the addition of a rear brake lever for the handle bar I'm really interested to try it. With a knackered left leg, I didn't realise how much I used the clutch to modulate low speed manoeuvres. because I have to have my left foot up on the peg, I cant use the rear brake coming to a stop or moving off or in moments when filtering and stopping suddenly etc (as my right leg needs to be holding me up!) and the suspension dive on the AT doesn't help either.

There are a couple of rear brake lever systems out there, for dirt bikes. The Ox Brake kit, which adds a cable lever to the rear foot brake lever and Rekluse do a hydraulic one that replaces the master cylinder reservoir. I dont think I can replace the AT master cylinder with one for a CRF450 (which would mean I can add one of those kits) , as the brake piston is much smaller, so surely the bore of the master cylinder piston is smaller etc?

Looking at the video below, is there any reason why I couldn't do everything he did but omit the rear master cylinder? If I don't want use of the foot brake lever, surely I could just add a joint block between the new rear brake line and the new handlebar master cylinder (banjo to banjo) somewhere next to the old master cylinder. The XADV master cylinder obviously has the correct leverage to work. Id literally just need an aluminium block, drill a hole through it, tap it for a banjo bolt each side and connect the existing and new brake lines together? Meaning It can return to stock very easily and removing the need to try and tap / thread in a plug into the stock master cylinder (where the reservoir connects) Thoughts?

adventuredon · Oct 10, 2017

The only thing that concerns me about this has to do with Simon's (haditlowered) off on his GS. If I recall he had muffs on his bike, and a slow, ish speed off with him going over the bars created a world of damage for him and his wrist - not to forget the f up on his treatment. But the actual location of the aftermarket kit on the bars caused the initial break/damage. That hand brake lever in the video might act in a similar way in the event of an over the bars dismount. Removing it to replace might be the answer. pS, why does the dct need a handbrake? Might be stoopid question, but one I forgot to ask!

JJH · Oct 10, 2017

I thought the brakes were linked? Might not need a lever at all. JJH

Daffy · Oct 10, 2017

Apparently if a motor vehicle cannot be parked in gear it must have a handbrake.

JJH · Oct 10, 2017

Sorry I read your post again. You want to be able to just give a touch of back brake at low speed. A lot of racers and stunt bikes have set ups like that. Maybe talk to someone with that background. JJH

GSWizz · Oct 11, 2017

I am happy with the muffs for road use but don't think I would have them for off road use where the risk of going over the bars in an off is much higher. I love the idea of having the rear brake up on the bat for slow speed control. This worked a treat on the Integra when combined with the dct. However I think it would be a mod that had to be disclosed to insurers as it is a fundamental change and might be frowned on or invalidate insurance if not disclosed. I did not like the position if the handbrake in the video. There must be an alternative latching mechanism that would work. Shame Honda does not offer it as an option.

crotchrocket · Oct 11, 2017

Thanks for the responses guys! I too don't like that handbrake lever, but theres no need for it to be on the handlebar anyway in my opinion. you could mount a ratchet lever anywhere really and just buy an appropriate length cable to suit.

JJH, a bit of outside thinking there was excellent ! Got me searching and I found this billet adaptor to plumb a second brake lever into an existing rear master cylinder! Below is a pic of the AT one and the second picture of a universal adaptor in what looks like a very similar MS !! That would save the whole threading/taping of bungs etc into the MS.

http://thesicshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_58_213_331&products_id=1020

Tractors are go · Oct 11, 2017

If, it relates to a modification due to a disability; it is unlawful to put an extra loading on the premium however they are entitled to charge extra because it will cost more to replace vehicle with additions than without. Hopefully that makes sense.

Deleted account 211025001 · Oct 11, 2017

Have you thought of a 'thumb brake' Crotchrocket?

I have similar issues to you but on my right side (and can't use a back brake at all). I'm so used to only using a front brake that it's not really an issue with me but, every now and again, I wonder about trying a thumb brake.

Andres

crotchrocket · Oct 11, 2017

Andres, haven't heard of one, I'll do some googling! thanks

crotchrocket · Oct 11, 2017

The other option, is to take the handbrake cable calliper off and replace it with a hydraulic calliper to a new master cylinder. Though i'd need to look at the mounting points and if they are strong enough. Or get a bracket fabricated for two callipers, like the stunt guys

Deleted account 211025001 · Oct 11, 2017

crotchrocket said:
Andres, haven't heard of one, I'll do some googling! thanks

Very common in racing and you do see them on road bikes sometimes (race rep type things) as well as the odd dirt bike.

Here's a link to one that retains the rear foot brake as well (or you can replace the foot brake if you prefer).

LINKY

Andres

crotchrocket · Oct 11, 2017

Thats excellent thank you !

crotchrocket · Oct 12, 2017

Looked at the rear brake last night, the carrier extends down for the DCT hand brake calliper, so both brakes share the same strength bracket (part 8 on the pic) which is good news. I cant see any reason not to just add a hydraulic calliper with the XADV master cylinder, for a completely separate rear brake?

JJH · Oct 12, 2017

I'm not sure about the suitability of a hydrolic handbrake? It would make more sence to have a cabel oporated rear brake. Oviousley not for brake performance or more importantly abs. I'd be looking at somthing like a hydrolic clutch lever? Plumbd in if the piston was anyway the right size. JJH

adventuredon · Oct 12, 2017

ill keep watching this thread. Once you have the solution I would probably be interested. Id like a rear brake option for the slow filtering etc

Andi_archer · Oct 12, 2017

I like the front rear brake idea but thinking for the handbrake more of a lever action used on large trucks that requires a positive two plane action to prevent accidental operation,mounted somewhere to the front left panel.

JJH · Oct 12, 2017

A trucks handbrake works totally differently to a cable or hydraulic. I don’t want to be negative but I can’t see that working with a cable as there is only 2 positions and not the range of ‘on’ that you need with a cable to take account of wear. Similarly with hydraulic I just don’t see it as a solution. Remember what a truck/bus handbrake is doing. Or more to the point allowing to happen. JJH

Myke Rocks · Oct 12, 2017

Have done this sort of things on both cars and bikes.

Everything here tries to make it look difficult.
To start with, you need a suitable handlebar left hand master cylinder. This is the difficult part. It is likely that a clutch master cylinder will do, but the probability is that the bore will be too great for a brake. Therefore, one will need a clutch master cylinder complete and a matching front brake master cylinder. (Ideally off a crashed identical bike)
The clutch master cylinder will have to be sleeved to take the piston from the brake master cylinder, with 2 o rings on outside to seal it. Having pressed in the sleeve and rebuilt the clutch master cylinder as a brake master cylinder, it is then piped to the existing rear brake master cylinder.
The remote reservoir for this is discarded. A new inlet connection is machined or brazed up to take connection from the new handlebar master cylinder.
The rear brake may now be operated either from the handlebars or by the original rear brake pedal. Either will work it. They are in series.

Myke

JJH · Oct 12, 2017

Myke Rocks said:
Everything here tries to make it look difficult.
To start with, you need a suitable handlebar left hand master cylinder. This is the difficult part. It is likely that a clutch master cylinder will do, but the probability is that the bore will be too great for a brake. Therefore, one will need a clutch master cylinder complete and a matching front brake master cylinder. (Ideally off a crashed identical bike)
The clutch master cylinder will have to be sleeved to take the piston from the brake master cylinder, with 2 o rings on outside to seal it. Having pressed in the sleeve and rebuilt the clutch master cylinder as a brake master cylinder, it is then piped to the existing rear brake master cylinder.
The remote reservoir for this is discarded. A new inlet connection is machined or brazed up to take connection from the new handlebar master cylinder.
The rear brake may now be operated either from the handlebars or by the original rear brake pedal. Either will work it. They are in series.

Myke

A breath of fresh air on this thread. Someone who knows what they are doing. JJH

DCT Left Hand Rear Brake Lever ?

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