Twin cam rocker box colour... and home service?

Okay.. may be I should not be servicing the bike!!... Will have a look when I get home!!.. thanks :)
 
There's always Grahams at Queensbury ... very very capable and get my 100, 1150 and TC to do the bits I won't go near...Highly recommended.:thumb2

http://www.grahamsmotorcycles.co.uk/

Thanks Jim.. only joking... I didn't realise they had 2 plug heads, so had never looked.. just out of the garage and the bottom ones are there for sure LOL... I used to use Grahams years ago when they were just off Odsal top... went one day and they had closed so didn't bother again... (going back 25 years??)... only just discovered they moved further up the road and are still going... will pop over this Saturday, see if Graham is still there... and if he remembers me.... a good place to buy the bits anyway!.. thanks...
 
Graham is still there (mainly dealing with the airheads) along with his son Stephen who is a master with the 12's:thumb2
 
I’ve used rattle cans from Halfords and the results were ok. If you have cylinder head guards fitted and the contact between the rubber and the cylinder head is at all hard then the paint will mark, otherwise it’s ok. I found paint codes from the parts fiche at MaxBMW then went to eBay and bought paint from one of the several specialists. Beware of BMW Granite Grey, there are at least two shades of that colour. For my GS Rallye Ford Nimbus Grey was a good match.
 
Thats useful info.. thanks.. Will check it out :thumb2

Just checked them both out.. its neither of them.. its a grey with a brown / gold in it... strange colour?
 
whats this?

secondary?

Replace spark plugs
*)
every 40,000 km (24,000 miles)
Check secondary spark plugs
for first time at 20,000 km (12,000 miles), then every 40,000 km (24,000 miles)

From the service sheets.. any idea what this refers to?

Replace spark plugs*)
every 40,000 km (24,000 miles)
Check secondary spark plugs
for first time at 20,000 km (12,000 miles), then every 40,000 km (24,000 miles)

Whats the 'secondary spark plugs???????

OK... so where is the second one located?... Must be missing something here LOL

Never mind. The next owner will have all the receipts and bits of paper to reassure him/her about the quality of home servicing.
 
Cheeky git!.... I'll have you know I've always done a fantastic job of servicing my bikes and cars..and last BMW I had was 2 plugs per bike, not per head that is for sure... its just my eyes are not what they once were... note to self.. 'double check I've got the right bike on the ramp before I start'

:rob
 
My previous bike needed new plugs every 10,000 miles approximately annually for me). They always came out looking ok but leave them any longer and it would be misfiring on one cylinder before 11K had gone by. At 10K, the plugs were always hard to loosen. At 20K (as required on the Beemer) they'd have been jammed solid.

Take care with those secondary plugs.
 
:thumb2

Will do.... Got a manual now so set up the valve timing last night... Just a tad out on the RH cylinder with the Flywheel lock in place and the TDC double checked with a DTI... these things are quite easy to work on.. That said, if you did ever have to take the Box out for any reason, looks like you have to split the bike in half.. LOL...
 
Tell me more about the "shims" you checked whilst you had the covers off......... That will put your future buyers mind at rest!
 
Tell me more about the "shims" you checked whilst you had the covers off......... That will put your future buyers mind at rest!

Shims are on the valve clerances.. easy job.. just remove the covers (2 bolts).. a plug from each side (there are two per side as I now know :) ).. Put bike in 6th, turn rear wheel until timing marks line up on cams... or the flats on the cam ends are square with each other.. and check the gaps with fealers.. If outside spec, take the C clip off, remove the finger between the cam and the shim.. measure the shim, and go buy the right one to get the gap correct... Simples.. takes about 15 mins per side if nothing needs doing :)
 
When doing the Yamaha (which was a piggin nightmare to get the shims back in), I measured all 8 clearances then swapped the shims about to put them all to mid range. I only needed to buy two new shims. I did midrange because air cooled engine can sound very rattly when clearances are at the wide end of the scale. I would need to recheck them sooner but at 70K all of the shims were factory originals.
 
Indeed... do the same on my ZZR... pig to get at like you say... I tend to go big if I have to better a tad more than tight... and a bit of noise...
Love how these work on the BM's... dead easy to do... as you say, I had to make a special tool to hold the bucketts down down so I could flip the things out on the Japs... on these, just move the finger and there they are :)
 
I have been in touch with Phil at RS BikePaint this week. He was really helpful and sent me a small sample of the cam cover paint, which looks like a really good match. The code he gave me was 38200.
 


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