Rear swing arm bearings... stuck

Followed the info in the link when doing my bearings - easy to do with the correct equipment.
I used BMW bearings, only sealed on outside but made sure that were packed with lots of grease (used high temperature bearing grease).
Checked after 12 months and all was still fine so happy with how I did it.
 
Yes.. been checking, looks like you can't get std bearings in that size with a seal... so may have to buy originals... they must be at least fitted with an external seal.. some on sale are not?
 
Real OEM shows the standard parts. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

The OEM bearings are one piece so presumably have integral seals. If you go OEM, carefully remove the seals and fully pack the bearings with moly grease.

If you choose my option the inner shim can be a full circle rather than a washer. Aluminium will do as that's what the swing arm is made of.

You "could" come up with a grease nipple system, but you would be on your own for design. Even if it works, every time you grease the bearings the excess/old grease will ouse out between swing arm and frame.
 
Followed the info in the link when doing my bearings - easy to do with the correct equipment.
I used BMW bearings, only sealed on outside but made sure that were packed with lots of grease (used high temperature bearing grease).
Checked after 12 months and all was still fine so happy with how I did it.

What was the torque setting for the swing arm to the frame, i seem to remember thinking I would need a bigger wrench to tackle that job.
 
Hi.. you bed the screw down at about 20nm, back of and load to 7 nm.. the big nut then goes down to 145nm... making a socket at the moment to do it..

So, have cleaned the bearings out and fitted them... whats the best grease... Moly or HT bearing grease?... want something really think and gloopy that will stay in place?
 
yes, thanks... had seen it but had a old 30mm impact I never used so made it from that.... hope I can use it soon :(
 
I used car driveshaft CV joint grease and fully packed the bearings. The angular movement is not enough to spit the grease out as it would if you tried the same on wheel bearings.

The right side is done up tight. The left side is only torqued gently to preload the bearings. You can get a special socket for the job so the pin doesn't move while tightening. I did it by marking the stub shaft with a Sharpie pen. No movement no worries.
 
Ok.. Not sure what CV grease is but will look.. Do Halfords do it...
 
Ok.. Not sure what CV grease is but will look.. Do Halfords do it...

CV grease is constant velocity joint grease for car driveshafts, it's covered by a rubber boot to stop it slinging off. I'm not recommending it, just saying what it is.
 
Go to say that's my thoughts... That said the arm pivot is hardly spinning... What's the best grease for load?

What's recommended for the drive shaft as there are no rubber boots
 
Go to say that's my thoughts... That said the arm pivot is hardly spinning... What's the best grease for load?

What's recommended for the drive shaft as there are no rubber boots

The universal joint on the bikes propshaft is sealed, It's the splines that need greasing, there are specialist spline lubes for the job. Do your research and choose.
 
will have a look for spline grease :thumb2

How about White Lithium grease????
 
will have a look for spline grease :thumb2

How about White Lithium grease????

Something that will rub into the metal surface is a better bet. You can get dry powders and high solids Moly greases that do the job. Ordinary grease will quickly rub away leaving the surfaces unprotected.
 
For greasing the splines I use a Castrol Moly grease.
I have seen recommended on line to use Honda moly 60 but not sure what the difference is!
 
I use Moly 60 because its nice and thick and won't fling, plus a little goes a long way. By burnishing it into the splines with an old toothbrush it forms alternating layers of sulphur and molybdenum on the steel surface which can withstand sliding pressures of 150,000 psi.
 
I use Moly 60 because its nice and thick and won't fling, plus a little goes a long way. By burnishing it into the splines with an old toothbrush it forms alternating layers of sulphur and molybdenum on the steel surface which can withstand sliding pressures of 150,000 psi.

Eh.....?? I heard it was only good for sliding pressures of up to 149,750 psi !!!
 


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