Jump Start

I'll bear it in mind as he makes progress - I have a dual HID upgrade and an array of aux lights and a dash cam so I wouldn't want to drop the capacity greatly but we shall see ...


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They seem to be 40, 55 or 60 Amp. But even the lowest is around 500 watts at normal running voltage.

The HIDs probably uses less power than the halogens. The OEM spots have a dipped beam pattern. Put HID or LED in there and the foreground becomes too bright with inky blackness beyond. OEM main beam is adequate with HID, but the separation angle can't be adjusted so its usually not looking far enough ahead.

With HID or LED in dipped beam I had no need for the OEM spots. I added the long range LEDs to fill in the main beam. Halo rings provide the marker light function previously given by the OEM spots.
 
Don't worry I won't be allowed to go against the surgeons advice ! I know it's not worth it.

As it happens I've just managed to get hold of a highly recommended independent BMW technician nearby (Barry Barber) who is going to collect it tomorrow and will also service it for me so I'm happy with that. :clap

Thanks to all who had offered advice - I'll post what the problem was in due course.

Where is this indy based? ive never heard of anyone closer to us
 
Failing to start ..

So a quick update ..

Barry Barber is based in Portsmouth off the Eastern Road in the industrial estate there. Excellent reviews .. he did 15 yrs I think with SPC before it became Bahnstormer. He provides txt updates but can be hard to track down but it is worth it.

Anyway he has had the bike for a week and still can't get it running. The fuel pump controller is failing intermittently and the new MotoBatt battery is below standard inn his opinion so that my well be going back. He is going to change the plugs this week as well - he's knows I'm still off the road with a knackered foot so I'm not too fussed other than to know it runs. The only thing I've done since a long weekend away on it was to wash it so just maybe water has got in ..

Bloody frustrating but that's like with a BMW. Loads of fun and an occasional hiccup.
 
The motor is quite easy to test. Jump leads to known good battery car battery ideally with plenty of oomph.

Fast turning starter = motor probably ok.

Reluctant starter that improves when negative lead is clipped to bare metal on the engine = earth contact to engine is dirty or cable crimps are corroded.

If that changes with bike battery you should be able to suss if its battery or starter.

Checking system volts at the same time can be helpful. When my old starter was failing it behaved like a weak battery but the system voltage was holding up well. Jump leads (car engine off) did not appreciably increase the system voltage. That pretty much proved the starter was not pulling full power. Cleaned starter brushed helped but it still seemed weak. The final straw was a failed fuel pump. Failed attempts to start the bike while testing pump, controller, etc finally killed the starter. It turned out to be the fuel pump not the controller. Bike was recovered. Next day, the starter was just as slow as the night before and no way could it start the engine.

Don't forget to have the alternator checked. If it's binding, the system voltage on engine start will drop a lot more than normal, indicating the starter is working harder than normal.
 
So sitting in a small bedsit away from home in Clapham waiting to hear that your pride and joy is running again is like waiting for your missus to give birth ..

Bloody bikes !
 
It's running again ..

Significant progress although I don't have all the detail other than Barry has changed the plugs and put one of his batteries on it and it's fired up and is running like a dream. He'll do the service now ...

I'm baffled as to why the brand MotoBatt didn't do the job ...
 


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