Drying out your Aux LEDS

Great article, now that you have shown how to release the clip, hopefully I should be able to expose mine to a dry atmosphere. I've been poking around from the inside to try and release them.
 
Thanks for posting. I’m off duty tomorrow. Guess what I’ll be doing? JJH
 
Mine isn’t working

Called into Chester Motorrad today ... no problem ... we will fit a new one tomorrow.. didn’t seem at all surprised ... glad it’s under warranty still
 
Called into Chester Motorrad today ... no problem ... we will fit a new one tomorrow.. didn’t seem at all surprised ... glad it’s under warranty still

Wasn’t as simple :blast... no power to light from switch ... so they have ordered new wiring and re booked me in ... with loan bike ( XR :green gri)
 
LED Lamp Replacement

Has anyone purchased just the replacement bulb rather than the entire unit and if so where did you get them from please? My problem was not water ingress but the bulb cooked because the heatsink paste was in the screw head rather on the lamp back! Unfortunately the lamp is out of warranty from BMW. On the bulb it says it is an Osram JFLCF2.2. The Osram website says they have a 5 year warranty but I am not sure how to call this in, if it is at all possible. If anyone has any advice that would be terrific.
 
So last weekend the bike got a decent clean and aftwards the nearside LED was out.:mad: Over-zealous use of the pressure washer on my part is the only explanation! Pop it back in the garage, unplug the socket into the back of the light and leave it to dry out. Back to bike yesterday and everything working again.

Now I'm standing looking at the OEM cable to the light and something feckin obvious stikes me - the wire into the back of the LED is slopping downwards! What a stupid design! Photo below shows you what I mean and that small locating clip (red circle) on the crashbar is the cuprit. The arc of the wire from that clip into the back of the light inevitably means the wire slopes down and water runs straight into the back of the socket.

I haven't had time yet but I will be relocating those clips or modifying the design so that water can't travel uphill!

What a silly design! :augie

Unclip the cable and swivel the clip 180 degrees.
 
Has anyone purchased just the replacement bulb rather than the entire unit and if so where did you get them from please? My problem was not water ingress but the bulb cooked because the heatsink paste was in the screw head rather on the lamp back! Unfortunately the lamp is out of warranty from BMW. On the bulb it says it is an Osram JFLCF2.2. The Osram website says they have a 5 year warranty but I am not sure how to call this in, if it is at all possible. If anyone has any advice that would be terrific.

I searched and searched but couldn’t find new ones.

I think your best option is to look at the identical Chinese ones on eBay that must work out cheaper than trying to buy the genuine article!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Spo...984762?hash=item4b4c8ef63a:g:ORkAAOSwQf9be81x
 
To overcome the water draining down the cable into the fitting an idea would be to fit a tight fitting grommet around the cable close to the light ,this would make any water drip off clear of the inlet.
 
Getting it over the plug on the end of the cable is the challenge.

I resorted to a black elastic band which you could twist tight. Doesn’t look the greatest but it achieves the same thing and you have to search to see it.
 
To overcome the water draining down the cable into the fitting an idea would be to fit a tight fitting grommet around the cable close to the light ,this would make any water drip off clear of the inlet.

Or I’ve wound self amalgamating tape around my new connectors and wires as buying these units is an expensive hobby
 
It is not necessarily just the cable entry where water can get in. I had water get into one of my Chinese copies, half filling it, though amazingly it never stopped working! I found when I dismantled it that the plastic lens on the front is seated on black sealant which in this case was not applied properly around the whole circumference. I removed it and replaced with new black silicone sealant and have had no further problems, though I did also drill a small drain hole in the bottom of the lens so that any water that gets in in future can drain out rather than accumulating.
 
A piece of spiral wrap would also work and it wouldn’t require disconnecting the cable to fit
 
Have followed the process, didn’t have a suitable compound, used a waterproof grease. Clearly the instructions had a compound with electrical aspects, question, does this back plate form part of the earthing circuit? If so will source suitable compound. My light flickers into life and flickers off when ignition off. Now thinking should have used an electrical based paste, just want to make sure what the compound for, current / earth or waterproofing qualities. Ta
 
I was under the impression that the grease was to give a good connection to the metal backing which acts as a heat sink. I don’t imagine it is needed for electrical conductivity.
 
Clearly they have never heard of rain loops on outside electrical cables :blast

Just look at most sattelite dishes where the cable enters the LNB cable goes (U)

aint rocket science
 


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