throttle body synch - approved procedure

Benhur Malta

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Dear all,

is there any universally approved, safe for idiots, procedure to synch the throttle bodies please?

my bike is a 1150gs 2000 edition
 
Here is the procedure, as written by bmw: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/tps-alignment-idle-speed-adjustment-beyond-zero-zero.996719/page-6#post-32357006.
 
have just done my synchronisation....the easiest job ever....and what a difference it makes to the running of the engine....

R.
 
exactly as detailed in the link above.....brass screws first and then cable....after that adjusted both screws to ensure that idling speed was spot on (minor adjustment).....
 
exactly as detailed in the link above.....brass screws first and then cable....after that adjusted both screws to ensure that idling speed was spot on (minor adjustment).....

Assuming Scot's link as there are two above.:beerjug:

I've always been loath to turn any brass screws be they carb or inj orientated.
So I've made do with just cable adjustments which help reduce vibration to a certain extent.
So thanks for sharing. ta.
 
Assuming Scot's link as there are two above.:beerjug:

I've always been loath to turn any brass screws be they carb or inj orientated.
So I've made do with just cable adjustments which help reduce vibration to a certain extent.
So thanks for sharing. ta.
I'd suggest you get those brass screws out and give them a clean. They have to be the easiest and most accessible parts for the set up...and they do get gummed up a little
 
You mean the long drawn out German way ...

That gets the sync right and all cables tensioned properly ... adjusting left and right cables as needed.
 
Apart from it being completely wrong about only adjusting the righthand cable adjuster.... You adjust both keeping the free play as equal as possible.

well I must not be such a numpty after all...I assumed that the system would not work correctly unless you had approximately equal free play on both cables...so I adjusted the right to get the balance correct but then double checked to ensure that free play was approximately equal....not exact, but to my eye we are in the ballpark. more importantly i checked to ensure that both pulleys "slapped" the stop screw when throttle is released, to ensure that they comfortably hut the stop....I assume that is the reason for the free play in the throttle cable right?

what i dont understand is that the moment I did this, my high idle switch(choke) started working correctly....i wonder how the connections work in the "bowden box" (is it even the ciorrect name?)


R.
 
what i dont understand is that the moment I did this, my high idle switch(choke) started working correctly....i wonder how the connections work in the "bowden box" (is it even the ciorrect name?)


R.

Your cables must have had too much play. Now you've taken up the play the fast idle now has an effect rather than just taking up slack cable.

You do know that the fast idle cable has an adjuster under the lefthand grip. You can tighten the fast idle cable so it works if the throttle cables have too much play.
 


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