Replace exhaust end can

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The 1150 GSA I got a couple of months back has a Remus Y piece and End can.

I'd like to refit the original CAT and can that came with it though not sure how easy this is or the process.

Is it an easy job to replace both or just the end can which I believe will fit on the Remus Y piece.

Do I need any additional parts???

Thanks

Tom

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I would just replace the end can with the original. I won't insult your intelligence as it's just a couple of bolts.
Putting the cat back on is a little more involved. Still just clamps, but with the addition of removing the lambda probe. This will likey be a bit tight and will need the wiring disconnecting.
Some prefer to just run with the cat and a stubby pipe, but the cat stops easy access to the clutch slave cylinder and gear indicator switch.
The bike will feel a bit flat after replacing the free flowing system, it should self adjust it's fuelling in 2-3 tanks.
 
I would just replace the end can with the original. I won't insult your intelligence as it's just a couple of bolts.
Putting the cat back on is a little more involved. Still just clamps, but with the addition of removing the lambda probe. This will likey be a bit tight and will need the wiring disconnecting.
Some prefer to just run with the cat and a stubby pipe, but the cat stops easy access to the clutch slave cylinder and gear indicator switch.
The bike will feel a bit flat after replacing the free flowing system, it should self adjust it's fuelling in 2-3 tanks.
Thanks for the info. So no exhaust paste needed. Just a simple swap out?
Good to know that it will adjust itself in a few tanks.
Tom

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The two clamps used for a remus Y piece onto the two downpipes may not fit the bmw cat.
 
I would be very happy to purchase the y piece from you for a reasonable sum please....pm me if you are interested

thanks

Reuben
 
I would be very happy to purchase the y piece from you for a reasonable sum please....pm me if you are interested

thanks

Reuben
Hi Reuben
Noted.
I'm going to try some combinations and see which one I like. First is to try the standard can and the Y piece as this appears to return some good results - more midrange grunt.
If I do remove the Y piece I'll get in touch.
Tom

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good man... i can tell you my experience if it can help.

my bike is a 2000 1150gs. it has a standard cat can/bucket/box with a remus revolutions silencer/exhaust/end can. it also has the wunderlich fuel controller fitted. air filter is standard purely because other more experienced owners have declared that the restriction is in the Cat box, and not in the airfilter/airbox

Observations

1. the running of the bike is impeccable with this setup
2. i suspect it is slightly rich and have decreased the effect of the wunderlich (you can modify the fuelling when accelerating and at red line)
3. noise is very well controlled
4. there is definitely more mid range with the wunderlich compared to other 1150s

my advice to you is that if you start modifying fuelling, go the whole hog and do air intake, exhaust and fuel modification properly (if needed with a dyno). this will ensure the biggest grin on your face and the happiest engine too. at least on my other bikes, this was the case

R.
 
good man... i can tell you my experience if it can help.

my bike is a 2000 1150gs. it has a standard cat can/bucket/box with a remus revolutions silencer/exhaust/end can. it also has the wunderlich fuel controller fitted. air filter is standard purely because other more experienced owners have declared that the restriction is in the Cat box, and not in the airfilter/airbox

Observations

1. the running of the bike is impeccable with this setup
2. i suspect it is slightly rich and have decreased the effect of the wunderlich (you can modify the fuelling when accelerating and at red line)
3. noise is very well controlled
4. there is definitely more mid range with the wunderlich compared to other 1150s

my advice to you is that if you start modifying fuelling, go the whole hog and do air intake, exhaust and fuel modification properly (if needed with a dyno). this will ensure the biggest grin on your face and the happiest engine too. at least on my other bikes, this was the case

R.
Thanks for the info

I'm going to try the Steptoe MOD linking points 5&6 in the CAT plug as currently the socket is empty with the Y and Road Remus. Some report good results doing this for that setup and also with no CAT and the standard can.
I get some bangs and pops on the overrun which I believe is a cause of running rich (though I may be wrong)

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what is this i hear....can you p[ost a link to the steptoe mod please?
 
Pops and burbles on overrun are due to air getting sucked back down the non catalyst exhaust. They don’t happen on closed throttle (no fuel injected) but opening throttle a bit will put some fuel through the engine. The more open/shorter the exhaust pipe, the more it will pop on overrun.
Dave Vizard’s videos of engine tuning have a graph of inlet port pressure by crank position on a BL A Series. At times the inlet goes to 7psi negative caused by the rush of exhaust exiting the chamber.
That’s on an old Mini 1275 so a modern bike engine will be doing it by design. A bike’s short exhaust pipe gives plenty of chance for air to get sucked back from tail pipe at low throttle.
 


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