Buggered My Battery.....

I took the bike out for an "unloaded" run today, i.e. no extra extras, just the heated grips & LED DRL's on. Readings are as follows -

Before Starting (Straight off of the charger) - 13.6v
Riding (>3000 RPM) - 14.3v - no higher.
Idling - 12.6v
Battery Voltage 6 hours after the ride - 13.1v

That all looks OK to me, the Stator appears to be charging, the Rectifier doesn't let the Voltage go over 14.3v & the battery is holding a charge.

I'll be riding to work later on this week with the Heated Jacket on too & will keep any eye on things.

When it was jumped by the AA he pointed out that the Negative terminal connection was loose - obviously so - all connections are good & tight now obviously, I think that this may have been my issue - thoughts? Everything else seems to be OK, so it may be a case of "user-itus" (I'm hoping so anyway).

Cheers,

Damon

One of the battery connections on my F650 twin came loose ( Motobatt) . I didn't have any starting issues but my HID headlight kept going out and I had the “ bulb” warning.

Now I make a point of checking the terminals every 6 months or so when Im giving the bike a once over.
 
Took it out for a "fully loaded" ride with Grips, Jacket & Trousers all running.

Before Starting - 13v
Riding (>3000 RPM) - 12.8-9v with all on at motorway speeds.
By turning things on/off I could keep it around 13v in the villages.
Idling - 12.6v
Battery Voltage 3 hours after the ride - 13v

Pretty sure that the dodgy connection combined with having all the gear on is what drained the battery last time, I'm happy that I can avoid a repeat by keeping an eye on the Voltmeter from now on....

D
 
No harm having a new battery and the volt meter. For what it has cost you , the meter enables you to keep an eye on the stator condition. I understand these do fail from about 60,000 miles. There was one guy on here who had a lower mile fail, but that appeared to be a one off.

Glad you are sorted and toasty warm again��

Steve
 


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