Final drive corrosion advice

Its not a paint finish problem :blast The well known corrosion problem is apparently caused by poor preparation for painting (according to a BMW dealer) so the corrosion starts under the paint. Its a good job your not an engineer making mistakes like that.:p

Muppet, the term ‘paint finish’ covers everything from the preparation, application and durability -bloody good job you ain’t an Engineer!
 
Muppet, the term ‘paint finish’ covers everything from the preparation, application and durability -bloody good job you ain’t an Engineer!

No it doesn't. It is actually the appearance of the coat, matt, gloss, sheen, satin, orange peel etc. What you describe is the process of painting. Durability is the result of the paint characteristics, application process and environment it is used in. Before you call somebody a Muppet, check your facts.
 
No it doesn't. It is actually the appearance of the coat, matt, gloss, sheen, satin, orange peel etc. What you describe is the process of painting. Durability is the result of the paint characteristics, application process and environment it is used in. Before you call somebody a Muppet, check your facts.

You muppet - the finish that one gets is partly down to the preparation so my facts are correct - paint finish is an ok term to use in this context - you are as bad as that Auwyn person who says that you can’t catch AIDS.
 
No it is not. It is a design characteristic. There is however defects when applying paint that causes the appearance to differ. Corrosion is the natural process of a material returning to its original state. What you see when the paint layer or finish bubbles is corrosion or a lack of adhesion or exposure to heat. Keep your personal insults for those you know in person.
 
Had a reply from the dealer.
They spoke to BMW again, and they won't contribute any further to the cost of replacing the final drive unit.

However, the dealer themselves have offered to "repair and repaint" the final drive unit free of charge, which does mean removing and stripping the unit by the sounds of it.

Does it sound worth the risk for a relatively small area of corrosion?
Should I leave it a bit longer to see how much worse it gets before getting it repainted?

Cheers
 
Had a reply from the dealer.
They spoke to BMW again, and they won't contribute any further to the cost of replacing the final drive unit.

However, the dealer themselves have offered to "repair and repaint" the final drive unit free of charge, which does mean removing and stripping the unit by the sounds of it.

Does it sound worth the risk for a relatively small area of corrosion?
Should I leave it a bit longer to see how much worse it gets before getting it repainted?

Cheers

Corrosion is best caught early. Frankly, I'm a bit surprised a replacement final drive is even considered! I've had a new drive fitted under warranty at less than 1k miles, but I'd have been content to see a proper job done by a good BMW approved body shop - the result is likely to be better than the factory finish by the sound of things.
 
I'd get it done while the offer is on the table - It will be better than the BMW robot that it before :)
 
Hopefully when the 2019 models are released the paint finish will be much better - in the meantime lather the bugger in ACF 50.

I've asked them to go ahead with the repaint.

Coating it in ACF50 was one of the first things I did when I got the bike at the end of the summer.
Even with that, I still worry a bit about riding it when the salt is on the road.
 
I've asked them to go ahead with the repaint.

Coating it in ACF50 was one of the first things I did when I got the bike at the end of the summer.
Even with that, I still worry a bit about riding it when the salt is on the road.

I ride most days during the Winter, salt doesn’t bother me when it’s dry, but you defo need extra protection if it gets wet as well.
 
Good result IMHO, I peel back the rubber seals around the final drive & apply Comma spray grease, it’s never attacked the paint or rubber & ive had no corrosion appear.
I also use Fs365 (unsure how effective it is) but it’s quick to apply, the ACF50 in my opinion I great protector but needs more care & time when applying, I use combination of both & have a few bikes, some very old but virtually no corrosion.

Well done & good luck guys..
 


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