1200gs steering head bearing size

jdh1340

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Could someone advise me the sizes of the steering head bearings for a 2010gs,pyramid don't do a specific kit and think its 20x47x20.6mm?
Is there a specific kit other than bmw?
Thanks
John
 
It’s on the Real OEM parts list available only from bmw. Angular ball bearing 47x20x20.6
I popped off the seals and packed mine with CV joint grease because the original was bone dry. No problems over the last 20K miles.
 
Thanks
With the wheel of the ground there's a slight notch when the bars go into straight forward position , d'ya reckon grease might sort it?
 
Thanks
With the wheel of the ground there's a slight notch when the bars go into straight forward position , d'ya reckon grease might sort it?

You can sometimes feel the disc moving in its carriers and mistake that for suspension wear. But if there is wear & tear, grease wont put back worn metal.

My steering head bearing was notchy around straight ahead but no free play at all and no effect on handling that I could detect. You need to check your front swingarm ball joint and the swing arm bearings. A finger on the swing arm while some pulls the forks back & forth should detect any free play.

Check the swing arm bearings by push-pulling the arm sideways. Mine were pretty ropey when opened up but no side play so I greased and put back.
 
Bendy - not sure why the Motorworks bearing would not fit as when you put the OEM part number in it references that bearing.
Also Motobins has a bearing, their part number is 25305 which references to the OEM number as well.
Have I missed something here?
Apologies if I have!
Paul
 
No bendy.there's no movement other than the notch.I replaced the rubber boot on the ball joint and packed it with cv grease.does both bearings need replacing top and bottom?
 
The steering bearing is quite easy to replace. But you need to heat the headstock to 100C. Then the old bearing drops out easily. Get it back to 100 before dropping the new one in. IIRC there is a circlip.
When stripping it out, you need to heat the spindle pin retaining nut to soften the factory threadlock.
Don’t trust the grease it’s supplied with. Pop off the seals and pack it with grease. It’s not a rotating bearing so over filling won’t do any harm and makes it less likely to run dry in the ahead position.

When I did mine I also removed the rocking ball widgets for the fork legs. Cleaned and greased.
 
The steering bearing is quite easy to replace. But you need to heat the headstock to 100C. Then the old bearing drops out easily. Get it back to 100 before dropping the new one in. IIRC there is a circlip.
When stripping it out, you need to heat the spindle pin retaining nut to soften the factory threadlock.
Don’t trust the grease it’s supplied with. Pop off the seals and pack it with grease. It’s not a rotating bearing so over filling won’t do any harm and makes it less likely to run dry in the ahead position.

When I did mine I also removed the rocking ball widgets for the fork legs. Cleaned and greased.

thanks Bendy
I'll take the front end apart over the xmas and have a look at the bearings,I'll replace them when i go that far if they look worn.might be able to get them more local from when i have them out
 
thanks Bendy
I'll take the front end apart over the xmas and have a look at the bearings,I'll replace them when i go that far if they look worn.might be able to get them more local from when i have them out

I got mine from Motorworks at not much more than a no name bearing supplier.
However on swing arm bearings were silly money so I tried angular contact ball bearings and aluminium shims. They done > 20 miles no problem. Due for re greasing when I get chance.
 


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