R80ST question re play in rear wheel and also parts availability

MarkShelley

MarkShelley

Very similar to Paolo Maldini
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I looked at an R80ST today and with my hands at 12 and 6 there was easily detectable play as I pushed and pulled. At 3 and 9 all seemed well. What is the likely cause, and is it an easy/cheap fix?
The bike had bent handlebars and both side panels were held on with cable ties. I have had a quick google and also looked on ebay in UK and Germany and I can’t see any listed. I know these bikes are rare, so would I be correct in saying these parts will be like rocking hirse poop?
 
MarkShelley said:
I looked at an R80ST today and with my hands at 12 and 6 there was easily detectable play as I pushed and pulled. At 3 and 9 all seemed well. What is the likely cause, and is it an easy/cheap fix?
The bike had bent handlebars and both side panels were held on with cable ties. I have had a quick google and also looked on ebay in UK and Germany and I can’t see any listed. I know these bikes are rare, so would I be correct in saying these parts will be like rocking hirse poop?
Click to expand...

It's play in the bearings, but it's not unusual to have, and everything may be ok, it depends on how much play there is, is there lots?
 
Not unusual to have some play when its cold- my G/S has about 1mm or so when cold, but none at all when warmed up. In terms of the side panels I think you can still get them from Seibernock and one or two of the other german suppliers, possibly moto bins/works as well.
 
ianboydsnr said:
It's play in the bearings, but it's not unusual to have, and everything may be ok, it depends on how much play there is, is there lots?
Click to expand...

Depends what you call lots I guess. I could certainly feel the movement as well as hear the noise as I pushed and pulled.
 
Id also look at wether any play in swing arm pivots. I'd have thought that if play was in wheel that you'd get it at 3 and 9 as well. I thought I had wheel play before but it turned out to be the bevel drive/paralever pivot. I know ST not paralever but would swing arm pivot give results you found?
 
There are two types of final drive, one with a needle roller at the drive side, and one with a taper roller.
The taper roller should be preloaded a couple of thou so minimal play at the rim.
The needle roller type should have a couple of thou end float and a little shake at the rim.
However the large wheel side bearing is a C3 loose tolerance bearing designed to be a shrink fit into the hub which tightens up the bearing a little, but most are now so slack in the hub that they stay with the crown wheel when the cover is removed, and this adds a little to the play to both types.
BMW now recommend the bearings are stuck back in with Loctite 242.
If your drive has the machined cap at the axle position on the shaft side it can be removed and end float and bearing location set from there - type without cannot be set without factory tools despite what some bodgers will claim.
 
Beemerboff said:
There are two types of final drive, one with a needle roller at the drive side, and one with a taper roller.
The taper roller should be preloaded a couple of thou so minimal play at the rim.
The needle roller type should have a couple of thou end float and a little shake at the rim.
However the large wheel side bearing is a C3 loose tolerance bearing designed to be a shrink fit into the hub which tightens up the bearing a little, but most are now so slack in the hub that they stay with the crown wheel when the cover is removed, and this adds a little to the play to both types.
BMW now recommend the bearings are stuck back in with Loctite 242.
If your drive has the machined cap at the axle position on the shaft side it can be removed and end float and bearing location set from there - type without cannot be set without factory tools despite what some bodgers will claim.
Click to expand...
This is the rear end. Which type is this
 
AFIK the FDs with the machined caps are usually needle roller type.
Mine had 2/3 mm shake at the rim when I bought the bike and it hasn't changed much in 170,000 km since.
M1, of course!
 
MarkShelley said:
Is my photo the machined cap type then? What is M1?
Click to expand...
Either unit can be shimmed to remove excess play,but it’s generally a good idea to find out why the play is there.
The needle roller type has a thrust shim which can wear and can be replaced with a thicker oneto remove excess end float,if the other bearings are ok.
For the cost of the seal and gasket set it’s worth having a good looksee,



Edit,one has to differentiate between end float and worn bearings IYSWIM
Then the unit shimmed to maintain correct mesh/ backlash and endfloat or preload depending on the type
 
Contact Swesty on here. I sold him a whole load of standard ST parts including bars. He may not want all of it and be prepared to sell some stuff on. By coincidence he’s from your way too.
Paul
 
That brake rods showing a lot of thread. Id want to take the back wheel out and have a look at the rear drum. It may simply be the lever has been taken off and moved round a tooth or so but worth checking as a rear wheel is going to be virtually impossible to find unless your very lucky.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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