Problems with jack plug for heated jacket 12000GS

RPMDAKAR

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Spent an arn & a leg getting my comfort sorted only to have the Canbus Jack plug refuse to work, any sensible answers welcome!
 
What is the rating of the jacket? Anything over 5A will trip the circuit breaker. This is one of the reasons I went with Keis as my waistcoat & insoles are under 3A combined. Other makes draw more current.

Your solution is to attach the fly lead direct to the battery (or remote accessory nipple)
 
Canbus = Black magic to me, will be fitting the fly leads to battery bright & early, Question, will I still be able to warm both of us up with a rating of 15 amps, jacket & waiscoat combined direct to battery?
 
Output from GS alternator post 2008 is iirc 720 watts so you should be fine maybe start it first though
 
My socket gave bother also. If you have a dead cell in your battery, and just a little low on volts, the thing will not work.

I cant use mine straight after starting the bike.

A new battery sorted it.
 
I have Oxford heated gloves. They switch off if you plug in then start the engine. I need to sort out some more convenient wiring but they do need to be plugged with engine running.
 
All answers seem to point to one thing: have nothing to do with that auxilliary socket and fit your own. I tried to charge the battery on my 04 GS via that underseat socket and it destroyed the ZFE, (the electronic control unit for everything but the engine). Anything that you want to run on the bike like heated clothing or tyre pumps are best run direct from the battery. Take leads from both terminals and run them to a conveniently placed socket which you can mount on some bodywork. I have such a socket mounted on the left side rear part of the beak about level with the steering head: easily accessible and safely isolated from the CANbus system. You can choose what you run from this by the gauge of the wire and the fuse you install. Good luck!
 
You can choose what you run from this by the gauge of the wire and the fuse you install. Good luck!

and that is a very good point.. wire gauge needs to be capable of carrying the load and be as short as practicable
 
Make sure the wiring is heavy enough, 15 Amps is a fair bit. Don’t forget to include a fuse if you’re wiring a socket direct to the battery. If you need 15Amps then fit a 20Amp fuse.
 
20 Amps is at least 240 Watts. More with engine running as voltage rises.
That much power into a heated suit would have to well cooked.
 
.. wire gauge needs to be capable of carrying the load and be as short as practicable

wire gauge is a good point but what's the issue with length. If it's voltage drop you're worried about, I'm no electrician but I wouldn't fret. Given that you can happily run 12v electrics the length of a 70' canal boat, unless the OP want to stay connected 25m from the bike, he should be fine...

:D
 
Check out the wires used to supply headlight. Rated for 50 watts per lamp but the wires look really weedy.
My last bike was losing 20% volts between battery and headlight. Adding a direct feed with relays made a considerable difference to brightness. These days, a 30 watt LED gives at least 2x the light .
 


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