Can’t find first

tjmouse

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Whenever I go to cold start the bike won’t find first on the first attempt. Cutch up, blip the throttle, try again no problem.

This morning I couldn’t get first at all. Managed to get second and pull away then could go down to first by the junction 50m away.

Any ideas why this might be? Total mechanical numpty here!
 
With the bike turned off, put it in gear and pull the clutch in once. Can you push it?
If not then try pumping the clutch a few times, does it now move ok?

If the above is so then either your fluid is low, the slave is faulty or both.

Some bikes however, slip easier into first when cold by gently/partially releasing the clutch whilst putting pressure in the gear selector. (mine does)
 
How old is the bike?

I suspect the ball joints in linkage has got crap in them and needs a good clean up. It's easy to do and will no doubt cure the problem.

I had this a few years ago and was struggling with the first 3 gears. Took the linkage apart, cleaned up and bingo.
 
With the bike turned off, put it in gear and pull the clutch in once. Can you push it?
If not then try pumping the clutch a few times, does it now move ok?

If the above is so then either your fluid is low, the slave is faulty or both.

Some bikes however, slip easier into first when cold by gently/partially releasing the clutch whilst putting pressure in the gear selector. (mine does)

Thanks - Tried this over lunch and it seems OK so guessing level are fine.

How old is the bike?

I suspect the ball joints in linkage has got crap in them and needs a good clean up. It's easy to do and will no doubt cure the problem.

I had this a few years ago and was struggling with the first 3 gears. Took the linkage apart, cleaned up and bingo.

2009, the linkage does look a little dirty externally (cleaned the bike over the weekend but not inside the frame) so could well be there's some dirt in the joints. I'll have to make time to take it apart next weekend and see if that fixes it :thumby:
 
How old is the bike?

I suspect the ball joints in linkage has got crap in them and needs a good clean up. It's easy to do and will no doubt cure the problem.

I had this a few years ago and was struggling with the first 3 gears. Took the linkage apart, cleaned up and bingo.

This. Common thing with the BMW transmission and often overlooked. Keep it nice and clean.
 
I was pleasantly surprised to find that replacement polymer bushes for the gearshift shaft are only a couple of pounds.
 
Its a dry clutch setup so to no oil drag to help engage the gear dogs from rest. Slip the clutch a little whilst engaging first, it'll become habit after a while of GS ownership.
 
The old Japanese bikes had to be started in gear or first would crash horribly.
The sBeemer has no such problems but (as Pukmeister says), can need a touch of clutch to align the gearbox shafts.
 
The old Japanese bikes had to be started in gear or first would crash horribly.
The sBeemer has no such problems but (as Pukmeister says), can need a touch of clutch to align the gearbox shafts.

That is the biggest load of shite every posted I have owned many early electric start Kawasaki's and never had a problem. Knew many who had early Hondas with electric starts and again never a problem even with the old heal and toe shifts ... can you specify which bikes you are referring to. Nearly all of the old bikes had a bit of chain snap in them but certainly better than the British bikes many which would almost bounce forward on engaging first. However starting in first gear sorry calling bs on that one.
 
Oh dear, what a loud mouth you are. :(

and clearly not very bright.

Any bike with a wet clutch will engage first gear with a crash if the clutch is not separated before starting. With electric start the easiest and most simple way is to start it in gear. Obviously, once the clutch is free'd off they are quiet. It's not rocket science.

Brit bikes could not be started in gear (the old ones anyway).
 
"The old Japanese bikes had to be started in gear or first would crash horribly."

"Any bike with a wet clutch will engage first gear with a crash if the clutch is not separated before starting. With electric start the easiest and most simple way is to start it in gear. Obviously, once the clutch is free'd off they are quiet. It's not rocket science."


Right lets start again... you are talking shite. To have the clutch plates stick as you have suggested a bike would have to lye idle for an age. If I did leave my bike for that length of time I would not be using the electric starter to try and break it... more likely to break the starter motor gearing. Now to the point. In consultation with my brother and also my mate we are all 60+ something and have had Japanese bikes too many to mention from 1974 onwards and none of us ever having to do what you are suggesting was the required practice. Can you tell us what machines you are actually referring to because between us with more than 120 years of accumulated experience and more than 30 different bikes and four manufacturers of Japanese motorcycles none of us have ever had to do what you say had to be done, or indeed know of any of our contemporaries who had to either... in fact we all refer you to the first sentence.
Now my brother's Desmo 900 SS the clutch on that dragged so badly when warmed up that you had to hold it on the brake and or let it crawl when in town because if you went into neutral and then went for first you nearly went into orbit ... but Ducati owners will forgive their bikes this sort of behaviour.
 
"The old Japanese bikes had to be started in gear or first would crash horribly."

"Any bike with a wet clutch will engage first gear with a crash if the clutch is not separated before starting. With electric start the easiest and most simple way is to start it in gear. Obviously, once the clutch is free'd off they are quiet. It's not rocket science."


Right lets start again... you are talking shite. To have the clutch plates stick as you have suggested a bike would have to lye idle for an age. If I did leave my bike for that length of time I would not be using the electric starter to try and break it... more likely to break the starter motor gearing. Now to the point. In consultation with my brother and also my mate we are all 60+ something and have had Japanese bikes too many to mention from 1974 onwards and none of us ever having to do what you are suggesting was the required practice. Can you tell us what machines you are actually referring to because between us with more than 120 years of accumulated experience and more than 30 different bikes and four manufacturers of Japanese motorcycles none of us have ever had to do what you say had to be done, or indeed know of any of our contemporaries who had to either... in fact we all refer you to the first sentence.
Now my brother's Desmo 900 SS the clutch on that dragged so badly when warmed up that you had to hold it on the brake and or let it crawl when in town because if you went into neutral and then went for first you nearly went into orbit ... but Ducati owners will forgive their bikes this sort of behaviour.

Where has this bloke come from? Bendy is quite correct in his statement I think the above is an "armchair expert".
 
Where has this bloke come from? Bendy is quite correct in his statement I think the above is an "armchair expert".


Really? Armchair expert you say. Well I am saying this to this comment "The old Japanese bikes had to be started in gear or first would crash horribly." posted on here which is what I have called bull shite on and stand by my saying it. Now I will happily list every Japanese motorcycle I have owned and ridden in my 40 plus years of biking and there are many dating back into the early seventies. I never had to do what has been quoted for any of them then again some were not electric starts, none the less I never had problems with sticking clutch plates full stop. I am still waiting to hear what machines he has owned and has had to adopt this starting procedure. I said he is talking shite at the start and I am repeating it, it is pure and undiluted shite.
 
How old is the bike?

I suspect the ball joints in linkage has got crap in them and needs a good clean up. It's easy to do and will no doubt cure the problem.

I had this a few years ago and was struggling with the first 3 gears. Took the linkage apart, cleaned up and bingo.

Hate to bring this back to my original issue but Sgt was right. Freed up on the ride to work and a squirt of WD40 has it moving freely now. They’ll get stripped and cleaned properly when I have a free weekend. Cheers :thumby:
 
Hate to bring this back to my original issue but Sgt was right. Freed up on the ride to work and a squirt of WD40 has it moving freely now. They’ll get stripped and cleaned properly when I have a free weekend. Cheers :thumby:

Good news :thumb2 Now back to the argument :blast
 
Hate to bring this back to my original issue but Sgt was right. Freed up on the ride to work and a squirt of WD40 has it moving freely now. They’ll get stripped and cleaned properly when I have a free weekend. Cheers :thumby:

You wont need a weekend. Just note where the clamps are set and take it apart - 10 mins max. 1/2 hour will be enough to put it back even if you are wearing boxing gloves. :D
 
You don't half talk some tosh Bendy, I mean, who wears boxing gloves to try and clean a gear selector linkage, I've cleaned lots of them and I've got lots of mates who have cleaned lots of linkages and none of us have ever wore boxing gloves.:D:D:D
 
Hate to bring this back to my original issue but Sgt was right. Freed up on the ride to work and a squirt of WD40 has it moving freely now. They’ll get stripped and cleaned properly when I have a free weekend. Cheers :thumby:

With age comes wisdom :D HTH :thumby:
 
Haha. I’ll make sure I get the boxing gloves out and time myself then.

Still need a free weekend though - too dark by the time I’m home from work and I don’t have a nice comfy garage to work in :(
 


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