Bolt re-use.

How much is a new bolt?

:nenau

Not necessarily the cost but the pain in the arse of getting them.

I replaced a rear disc on my LC and replaced the bolts because the manual said to do so but after doing so am sure it’s only because of the pre-applied thread lock.
 
Pre-applied threadlock?

Elsewhere in the manual, does it not say to 'fit such and such a bolt with a gob of Loctite'?

If the manual trusts you to use threadlock, why not with this particular bolt?
 
Pre-applied threadlock?

Elsewhere in the manual, does it not say to 'fit such and such a bolt with a gob of Loctite'?

If the manual trusts you to use threadlock, why not with this particular bolt?

Who knows? :nenau As someone's posted above, it may be that, from a dealer's point of view, its quicker to use a new, pre-threadlocked bolt than to clean up an old one and its associated hole. But....I seem to recall that the reprom says, for the lower rear shock bolt, to use Loctite of some sort.....on a new bolt. Go figure! :nenau

Pete
 
I did not use thread lock on my rear shock lower bolt. The original was a nightmare to extract I just could not get enough heat (without risking other damage) to soften the old stuff. That's one that I do check. It's never come loose in >30K miles.
 
I did not use thread lock on my rear shock lower bolt. The original was a nightmare to extract I just could not get enough heat (without risking other damage) to soften the old stuff. That's one that I do check. It's never come loose in >30K miles.

On my ST, I heated the lower bolt using my wife's mega hairdryer! :) I directed it under the swingarm - there's a slight bulge there over the threaded hole for the bolt. I figured if it got too hot and scorched the paint, it'd be out of sight anyway. It did the trick, the bolt came out easily.

Pete
 
On my ST, I heated the lower bolt using my wife's mega hairdryer! :) I directed it under the swingarm - there's a slight bulge there over the threaded hole for the bolt. I figured if it got too hot and scorched the paint, it'd be out of sight anyway. It did the trick, the bolt came out easily.

Pete

To be fair I was using a heat gun. :eek: I probably should have set it on "cook" rather than "burn to a crisp"

The bolt went back with a high solids anti seize "paste" and has never shown signs of trouble. I reasoned that similar bolts on the car are not thread locked.
 
A fit bolt is made to a size and tolerance, to fit a bush or locate something acurately (not a standard bolt out of a bin). If it's not worn or scored it should be good to reuse.

I had to take off the front shock when I fitted a new alternator: I used the same bolt to reinstall the shock and hey, I'm still alive. I would reuse that bolt if I were you!
 
You're still alive....at the moment!! :D

Yep, I'm re-using the original one. :thumb2

Pete

Its only about bolts stretching a little, Aluminium ones, and being able to loosen themselves out easier, threadlock and you will be fine, bloody Harley has this gimmick also.
 
Bolts are supposed to stretch just a little it locks the threads and pulls the parts together. Stainless tends not to stretch so shakes loose more easily.
 
Tosh.. get it back in.. bit of blue thread lock on it and it will be fine....
Mate of mine replaced a bolt on his Landrover leaf springs, only to find the new one broke after 2 weeks when he was doing 60 down a local road...
At least you know the existing one is a good one !! :)
 
Bolts are supposed to stretch just a little it locks the threads and pulls the parts together.

which for those that don't know, this is what the torque measurement is . The tension applied to hold the parts together, hence over tightening (torquing) the fastener causes more stretch and may ultimately shear the fastener
 
Bolt pulled to their functional limit need to be torqued. Thread lock, lubed or dry, anti seize,etc all affect the numbers.
In most cases fasteners are well within their limits so torque tightening is not absolutely necessary. Saying that in a factory or where time is limited it’s safer to use a tool than trust to a mechanics skill and ability. Aerospace and where ultimate quality control is demanded is another subject on its own.
 
So I wonder if BMW's line is that its safer to use a new, pre-threadlocked bolt because the torque setting is correct for that particular amount/type of threadlock already applied? I suspect a lot of people might be tempted to use way too much, adversely affecting the tightening of the bolt. :nenau Still doesn't explain why the lower rear shock bolt comes 'clean' and you have to put your own threadlock on though. :confused:

Pete
 
For those who don't have the (basic) skills to tighten bolts properly then playing with brakes and suspension is asking for trouble.

BMW will be taking the easiest route for them to avoid legal issues when things break. Fitting new bolts moves more product and keeps them legally squeaky clean. Shame they can't design the bikes to not fall apart.

BrokenR1200GSA.jpg


And we now have a recall on the 2013 bikes for front fork problems https://www.iol.co.za/motoring/bikes/bmw-recalls-r1200-gs-for-suspension-problem-9993846
 
Does everyone fit new bolts on their cars wheels everytime they have their tyres changed and tyre fitters over torque them with their windy guns.
 


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