Heated handgrip stopped working

Is it an easy DIY replacement Micky, just bolts and unplugging cables etc?

If you had a Meccano as a kid, then yes ...

... if not then no :blast


:beerjug:
 

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The OEM grips are silly money around £200 the pair.
Options -
1 - Get heated gloves
2 - get new elements on eBay peel back the rubbers and solder new element wires to original cable connectors. You will need car body mastic to stick the grip rubbers back.
3 - Fit Oxford grips but they are not cheap and the LH might to fit the fatter tube under the OEM rubber.
4 - get a mortgage and go to BuMW safe in the knowledge your bike remains bog standard.
 
I had both grips fails, not sure why but both went open circuit after the trip to Morocco. Maybe a bit weak after 80,000Kms and the horsing of loading / unloading did the rest. Anyhow...
Got a set of Oxford grips, found the rhs v tight. Sanded and sanded the throttle twist-tube, went to fit the grip and I broke the tube! Rang Motoworks, no secondhand ones available so ordered a pair of new BMW grips, about GBP180. Sobbing, I fitted them and all is well. I may fit the Oxford grips on my R100GSPD. They have been fitted on my Ducati SP3S and they work well, so I am a fan but boy are they a tight fit...
 
Replacemant grip

Just had one fail on my F800.
Easy fix if you know how. A grub screw and undo an electrical connector. £70? For the part..
 
LHS carries the switch block and is attached to the bike via a grub screw into handlebar. Why on Earth they did not use a clamp like the RHS is anyone’s guess.
RHS is supplies complete with throttle cable control.
I did many miles with Oxford Hotgrips on the Yamaha 900. They were much hotter than BMW grips and very reliable.
 
Least cost option for the Beemer is peel back the rubbers trim off any crud and stick on some new elements. The wiring connector is easily connected in. Then roll the rubbers back and stick down. Car body panel acrylic sealant is goodly sticky stuff.
 
You tube has some vids for removing late model grips. The type with printed circuit type elements.
They are VERY well attached at the switch block end. Cutting the rubber to start peeling back risks damaging the elements so don’t do it unless you know the old elements are scrap.
 
Then roll the rubbers back and stick down. Car body panel acrylic sealant is goodly sticky stuff.

Use hairspray.
Acts a lubricant so sliding the rubber grip on is easy. Then as it dries acts as an adhesive.
 
Use hairspray.
Acts a lubricant so sliding the rubber grip on is easy. Then as it dries acts as an adhesive.

The grip rubbers on later models with printed circuit heaters are very well glued down. Maybe even moulded in place. They won’t separate from the heater sleeve without cutting/tearing rubber at switch end.
When fitting new, all that clag has to be cleaned off. So hairspray works fine.

I put the old rubbers back because they were hardly worn. That needed mastic glue to rejoin where it had been ripped away from the original bonding.
 


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