bobbyb382
Registered user
I have searched the forum for any mention of driveshaft phasing doesn't seem to be any, is it because its not believed to be important or simply over looked.
Driveshaft phasing
- Thread starter bobbyb382
- Start date
Search Steptoe's posts-- I seem to remember he posted a video on here dealing with phasing.
In short, the phasing/alignment is important. Earlier bikes came with shafts who's splines were uniform all around, so easy to assemble incorrectly. Later models, or was it just the later Adventure models? Came with a spline that had a keyway incorporated into it, so impossible to misalign....
If you have an earlier model, just mark the shaft before disassembly. It's nearly impossible to see up into the UJ up by the output shaft, so if you pull only the FD off without marking things first, you're gonna have to get the swingarm off to see the UJ and then mark it all up... Maybe Steptoe and Mikeyboy have a trick to save you taking the swingarm off in that scenario?
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If you have an earlier model, just mark the shaft before disassembly. It's nearly impossible to see up into the UJ up by the output shaft, so if you pull only the FD off without marking things first, you're gonna have to get the swingarm off to see the UJ and then mark it all up... Maybe Steptoe and Mikeyboy have a trick to save you taking the swingarm off in that scenario?
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west coast traveller
Registered user
If you Google search "bmw r1150 gs driveshaft alignment" you should find plenty of photos and articles.
bobbyb382
Registered user
I think its swing arm off to be sure of true alignment as Slipperyeel suggests, but a good opportunity to check the front pivot bearings and mark the shaft for next time
Thanks guys...........
Thanks guys...........
A very positive way to look at it. Yes, a chance to give the swingarm bearings a check/clean/replacement.
Be warned, some people have bumped into a real headache removing the pins on one or both sides. I haven't done that job, but I vaguely remember some heat will be your friend from the start. Do a search on here first.
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fatnfast
Registered user
You can easily look up the shaft tunnel with a torch when the final drive is off. I have done it a couple of times. Use a dab of tippex/marker paint at the end of the shaft to identify the position of the gearbox end UJ. You really don't need to remove the swingarm at all.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/418420-R1100gs-drive-shaft?highlight=Shaft+phasing
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/418420-R1100gs-drive-shaft?highlight=Shaft+phasing
Nothing better than advice from someone that's done it!
I thought it was nigh impossible to see the UJ with the FD off.
Good news for the op
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west coast traveller
Registered user
+1. Also when re-connecting the hub to the drive shaft it helps if you stuff a cloth into the rear of the tunnel to hold the shaft central with a bit of the rag hanging out. Partially slip on the uj then pull the cloth out and push hub fully home.
bobbyb382
Registered user
Tried looking up the shaft tunnel with a torch but could not be sure of alignment, so I stripped the swing arm and paint marked the prop, checked the front pivot bearings honda molyed the splines, all very straightforward toughest job was getting the forward rubber bellow back on what a pain.
That's the clutch driven plate replaced with a longer spline type, replacement clutch slave cylinder fitted, and hole drilled for. drainage
just parts for the loom to rerap with self-amalgamating tape and I am done ...... for now......
That's the clutch driven plate replaced with a longer spline type, replacement clutch slave cylinder fitted, and hole drilled for. drainage
just parts for the loom to rerap with self-amalgamating tape and I am done ...... for now......
For the rubber bellows, after fitting the swinging arm, I pulled the driveshaft off the gearbox splines, which gave enough clearance in the tunnel to use a long length of dowel to push the bellows over the lip. Re-fitting the shaft was slightly awkward, but less so that trying to fit the bellows from outside.
For the wiring from my handlebar switches, I used this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TESA-TAP...hash=item3abcc6b086:m:mXro8yDUoPdKvEWGIF_pfMQ
Neater than self-amalgamating tape, and easier to use.
i found that there are two positions where where the UJ are aligned.
One is a little better than the other.
It might look right, but roll one end 180degrees and try again.
At least, that is what is seemed to me.
the first time I ever had the drive shaft out, I didnt know about phasing.
It was very obvious, would fall in to a right corner (i think it was) and difficult to lean in to a left corner
One is a little better than the other.
It might look right, but roll one end 180degrees and try again.
At least, that is what is seemed to me.
the first time I ever had the drive shaft out, I didnt know about phasing.
It was very obvious, would fall in to a right corner (i think it was) and difficult to lean in to a left corner
Basically here is an indexed driveshaft, meaning it only fits together in one position and as you can see it isn't perfectly aligned.
Attachments
Steptoe that's interesting. Are you suggesting that even being out by that amount in your pic, it's still all good? Meaning it doesn't have to be crack on. 'Close' is enough?
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I'm not "suggesting" anything.....You have no choice. That is the only way they fit together.
Ok. So your pic isn't of a duffer. That's how they come.
I would have expected it to be more aligned!
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That is a brand spanking new 1150 indexed driveshaft.
So how does it work. You keep buying them until one turns up, all nicely aligned? ;-)
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There is a bonded rubber joint which has some amount of flex in it when the shaft is under load, which should be enough to bring it into phase.
That's a good point Ian. I'd forgotten about that rubber interface. So actually it looks perfect (if we assume it flexes about 6-7° ).There is a bonded rubber joint which has some amount of flex in it when the shaft is under load, which should be enough to bring it into phase.
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