Fuel line quick connects

Wizards-Online

Wizards-Online

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I had the tank off last weekend and the white quick release connector that links the two sides of the 1150GSA tank broke as I undid it and pissed petrol all over the garage floor. I got a replacement set from Motorworks which worked perfectly.

I went for a ride this morning and stopped to see everything was good only to find one of the main fuel line quick release was leaking between the join. I checked Motorworks and a couple of sets with clips works out at £135 (may as well replace both while I'm at it) GULP!!! I'm sure the metal ones are worth every penny, but I just don't have those pennies at the moment, though I did find the replacement O-rings so I've ordered some of those - fingers crossed they do the trick, if not I'll need new ones.

My question is what size quick connects are these so I can look at alternate sources, 6mm or 8mm?

Thanks



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They're only worth £135 if you break a plastic one a long way from home.

Change the plastic one's periodically (every few years), be careful not to stress them, use rubber grease or spit on the O rings every time you disconnect them and they'll last along long time.

8mm
 
Quite right, Timolgra. That 8mm Male half of the plastic QD pair does snap for fun, and there's a frightening video on the Toob showing what happens to your right trouser leg if one snaps whilst blasting along. The term 'a human fireball' comes to mind.

So despite the inordinate cost of the replacement metal item, and the unavailability of any third party items at a lower price ( I lashed out on the unbeatable USA JiffyTite pair - kushtie ) there's no sensible solution other than either replace the cheapo BMW plastic male fitting regularly, or for peace of mind, get the metal equivalent. There's no need to replace the plastic female half - that doesn't seem to break so readily. And of course we're only talking about the high-pressure output fuel line, not the lower-pressure return feed to the tank. The fuel pump delivers fuel to the injectors at almost 3bar !

Prepare for a fright :-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTGMFmNG8AI

So please take Kirk's advice at the Illinois BMW Riders forum:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0XCXTokECY

AL in s.e. Spain
 
To be fair, I've seen these on a few different bikes aside from BMW, Ducati and KTM comes to mind as they also use plastic CPC QD fittings as standard on some of their bikes. Personally I keep the o-ring lubricated and am pretty careful with them and haven't ever had problems. Forcing them or not seating them properly will only end in tears, I guess the metal version allows some degree of ham-fistery?
 
Shit, I had some fun when one of these broke on me. I was in a rather posh double garage of my mate in Stuttgart at the time (he wasn't impressed one bit - and he missed the real cursing and swearing part!!!). The best bit is the male part stays stuck inside, so the bloody fuel can keep pissing out! Lol. I would not want that hassle by the roadside! - so change now!

If the male parts on your bike are still plastic, then change them, asap. The OEM metal part is just fine. As is the plastic female part (the part with the release button), so you only need to change half of the fitting.

You can spend a stupid amount of money on changing to all metal. Maybe some will extol the virtues of doing that, but bmw switched to the male metal part as oem, and personally, for me, they were just fine.

Don't forget to buy yourself some hose clips at the same time :)



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got mine from Beemer boneyard a few years back, not for a GSA, just to make life easier getting the tank on and off.
 
I'm currently working my way through my new 1150GS. Its a 2002 bike with only 14k on the clock. Took the tank off today to see what horror lay beneith with rotton wiring loom but it wasn't too bad. Now the thing is, I'm going to replace the QR for the fuel lines for metal ones and I was going to replace all the rubber fuel lines (based on how old they are). However, now, I've had a look at the lines, they all appear to be in good nick (don't appear perished, dried out or cracked). So, do I just leave them or should I replace them anyway?
 
My 2002 1150 still has all the original fuel disconnects and rubber pipes. Just take care when disconnecting the QDs, and a little bit of silicon grease helps reassembly.
My rubber hoses still look in good condition on the outside - hopefully the inside is not breaking up to cause problems!
 
AdrianS said:
My 2002 1150 still has all the original fuel disconnects and rubber pipes. Just take care when disconnecting the QDs, and a little bit of silicon grease helps reassembly.
My rubber hoses still look in good condition on the outside - hopefully the inside is not breaking up to cause problems!
Click to expand...
The clock is ticking. Your male parts are gonna break...at some point, regardless of how careful you think you might be.

And yes, you're right, silicone grease on the O-rings every time they've been opened. Because the fuel does a good job each time of drying out the O-rings. Obviously if you're out on the road then tough. But I did actually carry an old 35mm film canister with some in, so it was always on the bike.


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Not sure if anyone has mentioned this so far - but if you have an ADV with a 30l tank, get an extra 90 deg pair of connectors so you can leave the balance hose on the bike when removing the tank. saves playing 'thread the needle' when you're replacing it...
 
The o-rings arrived today, and based on what's been said in this thread I wasn't hopeful but it worked. Leak stopped! Phew!

Next time the tank is low I'll put new connectors in as that seems the advice. Just wasn't looking forward to either emptying the tank in situ or trying to lift a full GSA tank off!

As always, thanks all for the advice.

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Wizards-Online said:
The o-rings arrived today, and based on what's been said in this thread I wasn't hopeful but it worked. Leak stopped! Phew!

Next time the tank is low I'll put new connectors in as that seems the advice. Just wasn't looking forward to either emptying the tank in situ or trying to lift a full GSA tank off!

As always, thanks all for the advice.

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Click to expand...
It's really not a big deal lifting off a full ADV tank. It's the quick disconnects that count and make it work. With them fitted, you can have the tank of in about 2-3 min.

As Mile O said, having quick disconnects on the link pipe makes perfect sense.




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You don't need to take the tank off, when you pull your old QD off quickly push an 8mm bolt into the pipe.
 
As well as on the two fuel lines, I also have QDs on both ends of the link pipe on my Adv tank. That way you can leave the pipe in place when removing the tank.
 
Wizards-Online said:
Next time the tank is low I'll put new connectors in as that seems the advice. Just wasn't looking forward to either emptying the tank in situ or trying to lift a full GSA tank off!

As always, thanks all for the advice.

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Click to expand...

There is no need to fit new Q/D's if your old ones are fine. If you're clumsy and break things then you're just as likely to break new ones as easily as the old ones. I see bikes all the time with their original 10+ year old Q/D's still working perfectly, use plenty of grease and don't force them.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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