Front shock oil leak

Mine was so bad it messed up the front tyre tread but handling was not especially bad. It never leaked.

Funny you said that. I had to get my front replaced also. The tread depth was fine, but the rubber started to separate from the carcass in bubbles all around the tire. Was weird. Also due to failed front shocker .
 
Hello gents !
If any of you would like to rebuild the OEM shocks let me know ...
Last year I've done four of them (rear) with and without ESA for my friends.
I'm not the professional but i'm mechanic with all the tools
I can do this relatively cheap.
Total cost will be no more then £100 if you can drop this on my doorstep.
This includes Motul oil new seal-head and nitrogen recharge.
I didn't have a chance to do the front shock yet but this shouldn't be more difficult then rear.

61328687df0f9b412e60c487c12c80d6.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

like the hammer and clothespeg:D
 
like the hammer and clothespeg:D

yep why not.. If it gets the job done ;)

currently I'm trying to find a source of hydraulic seals to much the original.
Is there anyone in the trade that could give me an idea where to look ? maybe someone know aftermarket supplier for this kinds of stuff.
This could bring the cost of repair dow
as the seal-head alone is quite deer and it's nothing wrong with the oem part...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Funny you said that. I had to get my front replaced also. The tread depth was fine, but the rubber started to separate from the carcass in bubbles all around the tire. Was weird. Also due to failed front shocker .

The previous front tyre went on and on and on etc. but every one had worn with a stepped back effect on the tread blocks. The rear edge more worn than the front edge. The Diversion 900 was just the same so I assumed it was normal. However the Divvi has pretty basic forks damping only on compression and diving to the stop on braking.

The TKC-70 wore in very weird ways with alternately worn tread blocks so it had a rippled effect. That tyre was changed when I fitted the new shock. The now nearly worn out Conti Trail Attack 2 (same structure as the TKC-70) has worn much more evenly with much less stepping on the tread blocks.

In terms of handling and front end feel, the bike is of course better with newer OEM shocks but considering the old front had 60K miles its not a huge revelation. However since fitting the new shock, tyre wear is much better. Im pretty sure that worn (though not unusable) front shocks give the tyre a hard time.
 
Great news!
Yesterday I've managed to stripped down the front shock that was laying about and get all the parts needed to completely rebuild the shock.
Not sure how shock is performing with that kind on oil in it
2514babed7ddd105119fd7de06d421e9.jpg

Please note this is not a Pepsi inside of that container
171d88c0e1e6a8adc37026a9534b84f3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great news!
Yesterday I've managed to stripped down the front shock that was laying about and get all the parts needed to completely rebuild the shock.
Not sure how shock is performing with that kind on oil in it
2514babed7ddd105119fd7de06d421e9.jpg

Please note this is not a Pepsi inside of that container
171d88c0e1e6a8adc37026a9534b84f3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The quality of standard oil is usually very poor, due to price savings, replacing with a better oil more appropriate for your riding style makes a big difference.

This shows how important regular servicing of suspension parts is.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Any suspension service agent will tell us to have them stripped and re oiled every 15K miles at least. Expecting a thimbleful of oil to keep on going for ever is just - well we change the engine and gearbox oil don’t we?
 
Any suspension service agent will tell us to have them stripped and re oiled every 15K miles at least. Expecting a thimbleful of oil to keep on going for ever is just - well we change the engine and gearbox oil don’t we?

Well said, when you look at it like that maybe we should be a little more realistic :thumby:
 
I asked a suspension airbag supplier if it was possible to use them on bikes. It is - sort of, but the bags are larger diameter than bike shocks so there is just not enough space for them. A shame because ride-height adjustment on the fly is handy to have on a tall bike.
 
I asked a suspension airbag supplier if it was possible to use them on bikes. It is - sort of, but the bags are larger diameter than bike shocks so there is just not enough space for them. A shame because ride-height adjustment on the fly is handy to have on a tall bike.
K-tech do an air suspension allegedly, as did fournales who were French, iirc they did concorde and the tgv.

I had air suspension on my Sigma, got sick of paying to train Mitsubishi mechanics on fixing the leaks. I gave up bashing my head off that wall.



Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
K-tech do an air suspension allegedly, as did fournales who were French, iirc they did concorde and the tgv.

I had air suspension on my Sigma, got sick of paying to train Mitsubishi mechanics on fixing the leaks. I gave up bashing my head off that wall.

The basic air bag types (as used much bigger on HGVs) are reliable but are too fat for most bikes. Those with mechanical pistons leak at seals (no lubricant) and the air volume is low so they stiffen up too quickly on full bump.
Bikes don’t need all the fancy ride height bollox used in posh cars - less to go wrong.
 
The basic air bag types (as used much bigger on HGVs) are reliable but are too fat for most bikes. Those with mechanical pistons leak at seals (no lubricant) and the air volume is low so they stiffen up too quickly on full bump.
Bikes don’t need all the fancy ride height bollox used in posh cars - less to go wrong.
Simples is best, and I'm proof of that !

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
I would like the bike to rise when I'm moving and quickly lower itself when I get to walking speed. That keeps my feet from dragging when in hooning mode but allows comfortable leg/seat positions AND lets me reach the floor when stopped. With fixed (or slow moving) ride height, the bars, seat/pegs/seat height is compromised by the rider needing to reach the floor. Such things would also allow small people to ride big bikes.
 
I would like the bike to rise when I'm moving and quickly lower itself when I get to walking speed. That keeps my feet from dragging when in hooning mode but allows comfortable leg/seat positions AND lets me reach the floor when stopped. With fixed (or slow moving) ride height, the bars, seat/pegs/seat height is compromised by the rider needing to reach the floor. Such things would also allow small people to ride big bikes.
Isn't that called a hoverbike?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Isn't that called a hoverbike?
Citroen did it (expensively) with hydraulics and produced one of the smoothest riding best handlings cars of the day. Their kit is small enough to work on a bike.
Air bags do all sorts of bollox on posh cars. Why not have them on posh bikes as well? Less weight and simple engineering.
 
Best handling\riding GS I have had by far was my 2008 with non ESA Wilbers.....fantastic and miss it...but expensive...I have also had OEM rear suspension rebuilt by MCT to a good standard like many on here.
 
Wilbers “WESA” is your own ESA equipment with a new shock damper and spring. You get the premium suspension ride & handling AND keep the fancy ESA stuff.
 


Back
Top Bottom