Corrosion on nuts and bolts? R1200GS 2007

Me confused

:eek

So.......... Bendy Toy, Neil W, MattW, and everyone else, what do you use on your bike to replace bolts, have you seen any corrosion, and for how many years??

Thanks!
 
as indicated above - read up on the internet about mixing metals

also consider torque settings

Can't you just buy replacement OEM ones from BMW and look after them?
 
BillN said:
as indicated above - read up on the internet about mixing metals

also consider torque settings

Can't you just buy replacement OEM ones from BMW and look after them?
Click to expand...



Indeed, I have been reading and I also trust other rider's experiences; I have seen somewhat contradictory statements (coppaslip Vs duralac Vs zinc plated) so return over experience is extremely useful to decide the best course of action. I want a solution as definitive as possible, stainless steel is (was?) a possibility because it looks great. I always use a torque wrench anyways, so should be fine.

OEM might also be an option if there is a way to treat them properly against corrosion.

I need to think about it.
 
On my 90/6 and R90s replicas I have used stainless, no issues over 10 years with galling or aluminium thread degradation. Bikes not used in winter but 5k miles or so in the rest of the year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
BillN said:
as indicated above - read up on the internet about mixing metals

also consider torque settings

Can't you just buy replacement OEM ones from BMW and look after them?
Click to expand...

Exactly what I did on frame bolts. But they all lose the zinc coating over time. That’s what it’s there for. Either replace or get them replated.

On the engine front cover I have stainless with copper washers and copper/carbon anti seize all the way up the screws. Some corrosion returned but nothing like it was with the original paint. Centre stand done by the same coater has not fared too well so I suspect it’s not entirely the electrochemical issues.
The little aluminium spacers on the (stainless) side carrier frames have been hammered. I had them coated hoping it would insulate the metals but not a chance. They need to be replaced in stainless.
Everywhere else, I have standard fasteners replaced when they look scabby.
 
chasbmw said:
On my 90/6 and R90s replicas I have used stainless, no issues over 10 years with galling or aluminium thread degradation. Bikes not used in winter but 5k miles or so in the rest of the year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input chasbmw!!
 
Bendy toy said:
Exactly what I did on frame bolts. But they all lose the zinc coating over time. That’s what it’s there for. Either replace or get them replated.

On the engine front cover I have stainless with copper washers and copper/carbon anti seize all the way up the screws. Some corrosion returned but nothing like it was with the original paint. Centre stand done by the same coater has not fared too well so I suspect it’s not entirely the electrochemical issues.
The little aluminium spacers on the (stainless) side carrier frames have been hammered. I had them coated hoping it would insulate the metals but not a chance. They need to be replaced in stainless.
Everywhere else, I have standard fasteners replaced when they look scabby.
Click to expand...

I like that :)
 
chasbmw said:
On my 90/6 and R90s replicas I have used stainless, no issues over 10 years with galling or aluminium thread degradation. Bikes not used in winter but 5k miles or so in the rest of the year.
Click to expand...

Remove the electrolyte and you don’t have a battery = no corrosion no problem.
My Kettle has the same with no winter (or even early spring) usage and equally no problems.
 
My r1150gs had stainless casing bolts, stainless caliper bolts, stainless fork clamp bolts in for the 9 years I owned it and they are still fitted with no problems 6 years after I sold it , my Katana has had similar stainless bolts for the forks, calipers, disc mounting bolts,outer casings, tank mounting,sidepanel,seat mounts etc for nearly 30 years and I've never had one seize or snap.

Similarly I've used them on numerous other bikes including CX500's , trail bikes, various suzuki gs550/750's ,GT750/Gt500/T500 and numerous others and again never had had problems
 
My Kettle has them but it never sees salt and only gets wet when it’s washed.

Check out any corroded engine front cover from a K25 BMW and you will see minimal damage up the centreline (stone chip territory) but huge weals around the screw holes where corrosion has run riot under the paint layer. They “only” had carbon steel screws but still no protection.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

er-minio
Engine cover, final drive repaint.
Replies
5
Views
299
er-minio
er-minio
GSite
Exhaust corrosion on new bike
Replies
19
Views
774
EVskij
EVskij
How to remove OG BMW R1250GS footrests and replace with new ones?
Replies
3
Views
221
Smartbazza
Smartbazza
peej1977
OEM crash bars - Warning!
Replies
1
Views
551
leadfarmer
leadfarmer
luckylucian
Front discs not floating due to alu wheel corrosion
Replies
2
Views
585
luckylucian
luckylucian


Back
Top Bottom