R1100GS - Dies after a couple of minutes

gazuk · Apr 11, 2018

Firstly a little history:

Took the bike for a service and asked about an intermittant problem where the bike would just die with all electrice dead (maybe happens once a ride) and It did seem to blow the rear light bulb (got through 3 in a couple of weeks). It was suggested the problem was probably the Ignition loom. Ordered a new one, fitted it, 30 minute test ride and all seemed ok. Put the bike away.

Back to present day:

Returned to the bike after about a month. It started ok but cuts out after a couple of minutes. The engine then turns over but does not start . If I leave it for a while it will start but then dies shortly after. There is a little buzzing from the electrics and it seems to keep resetting (as if the ignition is being switched on)

Came back next day and exactly the same (and it still is). So I seem to have replaced an intermittant problem with a consistant one! Or is it just a coincendence and something else has gone?

Unfortunately cant get this to the GS expert here as it's unrideable so its going to have to go to my local mechanic so was looking for any pointers I could give him (he has just rebuilt a 1150 GS engine for a customer so should be clued up).

Any ideas?

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hops · Apr 12, 2018

Hall sensor possibly, not sure if this link will work but here goes nothing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rs94n2xxylq51t4/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf?dl=0

Sergeant Pluck · Apr 12, 2018

Wiring from ignition OK? It can start to break and cause cutouts.

gazuk · Apr 12, 2018

Sergeant Pluck said:
Wiring from ignition OK? It can start to break and cause cutouts.

I have triple checked the wiring and can't see what I could have done wrong.

I start the bike and stand away and it runs then cuts out. The symtoms are nothing like the original intermittant problem. Does sound electrical but not damaged wires due to cable ties.

If it had carbs I'd swear bling there was a fuel blockage somewhere.

I have lifted the tank to ensure no trapped cable/pipes and started bike with the same result - cutout after a couple of minutes.

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ianboydsnr · Apr 12, 2018

Didn’t they have issues with the ignition wire around the headstock snapping inside the insulation, due to the loom being too tight?

gazuk · Apr 12, 2018

hops said:
Hall sensor possibly, not sure if this link will work but here goes nothing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rs94n2xxylq51t4/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf?dl=0

Can't open link, phone (Android) says file is of an invalid type. I can normally open PDF's so don't know why.

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gazuk · Apr 12, 2018

ianboydsnr said:
Didn’t they have issues with the ignition wire around the headstock snapping inside the insulation, due to the loom being too tight?

Apparently so and thats why I was advised to get a new loom and DON'T cable tie it.

The bike was fine for the 30 minute test ride after that.

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oblertone · Apr 12, 2018

If it stars and runs for a few minutes then surely that points to fuel starvation i.e. Something that gradually runs out rather than electrical which would prevent running at all :nenau

This post is made in the full acknowledgment that I know fuck all about how said systems integrate.

gazuk · Apr 12, 2018

oblertone said:
If it stars and runs for a few minutes then surely that points to fuel starvation i.e. Something that gradually runs out rather than electrical which would prevent running at all

This post is made in the full acknowledgment that I know fuck all about how said systems integrate.

That's what I thought, but not being carbs I have no idea. But it does make funny electrical noises

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Steptoe · Apr 12, 2018

gazuk said:
That's what I thought, but not being carbs I have no idea. But it does make funny electrical noises

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The funny electrical noises and the symptoms you describe all point to a failing/failed hall sensor.

ronnie69 · Apr 12, 2018

gazuk said:
I have lifted the tank to ensure no trapped cable/pipes and started bike with the same result - cutout after a couple of minutes.

Is it possible the engine end of the throttle cables haven't rebedded in their little holder thingies after you lifted the tank? There is (or used to be) a thread (sticky maybe?) with a photo of right and wrong so that even idiots like me can understand the difference.

oblertone · Apr 12, 2018

Steptoe said:
The funny electrical noises and the symptoms you describe all point to a failing/failed hall sensor.

There you go, the Guru has spoken; which merely confirms I know less than I thought I did, which was not a lot.

gazuk · Apr 12, 2018

ronnie69 said:
Is it possible the engine end of the throttle cables haven't rebedded in their little holder thingies after you lifted the tank? There is (or used to be) a thread (sticky maybe?) with a photo of right and wrong so that even idiots like me can understand the difference.

I did think of that and have seen the picture somewhere but all looked fine and the fact that it ticked over and reved fine for a couple of minutes indicated that it wasn't that.

Looks like a need a hall sensor replacement.

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squibb34 · Apr 12, 2018

Hall sensor, fuel pump or pressure regulator. Could be crap in the system, but seems less likely.

Try Steptoe's suggestion first. You should be able to hear/discern what the fuel pump gets up to when you switch on - pump noise, then cuts once reg pressure is reached. If it carries on pumping, or fails to ressume after you start her up then you have the culprit. I assume the battery condition is good - ie c12.8v standing, c14.5v when running at 3000rpm, without any massive drop when you press the starter button.

hops · Apr 12, 2018

gazuk said:
Can't open link, phone (Android) says file is of an invalid type. I can normally open PDF's so don't know why.

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I will PM you my email address, if you ping me back yours I’ll resend the file and a link to a fella on eBay who does replacements much cheaper than most places over here.

squibb34 · Apr 12, 2018

Is this Youtube linky any help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0g5WD7C4K_0

Posh Pete · Apr 12, 2018

Hall sensor failure can be erratic. It's not the sensor that fails. Invariably, it's the wiring to the sensor that breaks.down as the insulation degrades due to engine heat over time. If the engine stops after a few minutes as the engine heats up, I would suspect exactly that.

gazuk · Apr 12, 2018

scotboxer said:
Hall sensor failure can be erratic. It's not the sensor that fails. Invariably, it's the wiring to the sensor that breaks.down as the insulation degrades due to engine heat over time. If the engine stops after a few minutes as the engine heats up, I would suspect exactly that.

Thank you everyone for the responses. I am going to assume it's the hall sensor and get it replaced.

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gazuk · Apr 12, 2018

squibb34 said:
Is this Youtube linky any help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0g5WD7C4K_0

That was useful especially the symptoms bit about the rev counter rising which is what I get.

It also convinced me that I won't be doing this job myself.

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oblertone · Apr 12, 2018

West Sussex to Kingston isn't much of a schlep, go and see the Guru himself.

R1100GS - Dies after a couple of minutes

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What a waste.

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