GSA 2008 48,000 service advice required.

Morning All,

I have a GSA 2008 which now has 48,000 miles on it, bought it at 24,000.

I have so far carried out an air filter change from K&N back to a basic due to rough running around 15,000 miles ago, I have also carried out minor service i.e. oil+filter every 6000 miles, refurbed all calipers with phenolic pistons + seals/ pads, changed my RHS heated grip, bolted the usual stuff on and recently removed my FD to send to Mikeyboy around 10,000 ago.

The suspension is now shot for which I have managed to source a lovely pair of Ohlins (off a member) which I will complete the purchase in a a couple of weeks when my funds allow. I intend to take these purchased items to FTR in Essex and get them serviced before I fit them to my bike. Other than that the bike is running relatively well although sometimes seems to strain a little at higher revs on the A roads, doesn't stutter as such but maybe a fuel/ air issue???? But no major effects and no effects at lower speeds/ revs (always plenty of fuel in the tank).

I intend to take a few days off to fit the Ohlins myself and would like to use this time to undertake any other required maintenance to minimise time off the road.

I have the following questions as a newbie to servicing my bike.

With regard to the suspension are there any tips with regard to the process that a novice should know? (I do have the Haynes manual/ youtube).

Any suggestions what I should do apart from oil+ oil filter. FD oil again? Plugs? Air filter? Anything to do with the throttle bodies/ balancing and that shit with the feeler gauges????

Any advice will be gratefully received.....

cheers.

When I removed my rear shock I discovered there is a brass bush in the swing arm on the bottom mount. Mine was seized in there. I squirted it with wd40 and had to use washers and a bolt to draw it out. Cleaned it up, bit of copper grease and slid it back in.

Plugs are usually check, replace at 24,000. For the cost of oil I'd change it. Air filter, visual inspection, mine always looks brand new when I check it. Tap it and see if any thing comes out.

Grease the fd shaft splines. Most use moly grease. I didn't have any so just used some cv grease I had, better than nowt. Valve clearances are a must really, balancing is good.

commandoallan said:

I have a GSA 2008 which now has 48,000 miles on it, bought it at 24,000......... I have also carried out minor service i.e. oil+filter every 6000 miles,

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So basically your bike hasn't had a service for 24K miles.. All it's had is oil and filter changes.

I found this http://blog.touratech-usa.com/2013/04/17/how-to-bmw-r1200gs-adventure-shock-installation/ useful when I changed my 1200ST's units earlier this year. On mine, the bush mentioned above came straight out.

Pete

Steptoe said:

So basically your bike hasn't had a service for 24K miles.. All it's had is oil and filter changes.

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yep........

milleplod said:

I found this http://blog.touratech-usa.com/2013/04/17/how-to-bmw-r1200gs-adventure-shock-installation/ useful when I changed my 1200ST's units earlier this year. On mine, the bush mentioned above came straight out.

Pete

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Just had a look, I think I will enlist the services of an oppo who also has a 2008 GSA.

How long did yours take? And many thanks for the link.

CV joint grease is a high moly type. Perfect for both swing arms, paralever and drive splines.

commandoallan said:

Just had a look, I think I will enlist the services of an oppo who also has a 2008 GSA.

How long did yours take? And many thanks for the link.

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I reckon no more than a couple of hours - I had to remove the plastics and then the tank on the ST to get at the front unit's top nut, the Touratech how-to suggests you can get it off the GS without taking the tank off I think.

The rear was easy enough, I applied heat to the bottom bolt with my wife's mega hairdryer - there's a small bulge on the bottom surface of the swingarm that's actually the end of the threaded section that the bolt goes into (if that makes sense.....), I assume the GS is the same. I thought it didn't matter too much if I singed the paint there anyway, and gave it a good few minutes blast - the bolt came straight out, no problem at all. The bush came straight out easily enough, I fitted a new one while I was at it.

The front bottom bolt came out easily, top nut the same. I fitted new Shock Factory units. The most awkward bit was tightening up the front unit's top nut. The new one is made with flats on the threaded portion at the top, so you can stop the whole body turning as you tighten the nut - the flats aren't very wide, the only thing I'd got to put on them was an 8mm (I think) spanner, quite small in the hand! Anyway, the torque for the nut's not huge, I managed!

Pete

BMW use threadlock on most fasteners. It needs to be at least 100 dogs C to loosen adhesion. I took mine to 120 no problems.

bleed the brakes and refill with new fluid, change the alternator belt, check timing, change plugs and do all other minor service detail. reset the service indicator. Anything missed?

adventuredon said:

bleed the brakes and refill with new fluid, change the alternator belt, check timing, change plugs and do all other minor service detail. reset the service indicator. Anything missed?

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Pump out the brake pistons (carefully). If any are sticking strip and clean the calipers. You "can" just work the pistons a bit, but they will stick again so best to clean them properly while still easy enough to remove.

Many thanks All.

Thread closed.