Rear brake binding a little?

beaver

beaver

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As posted on another thread, I've just bled my rear brake as the pedal was going too far down... Having bled the brake, the pedle now moves about 20mm instead of 50mm.. yipee..
But the rear bake was getting hot before, and it still is... maybe a bit better now than before, but still hot.. anyone else get this?

I did about 3 miles on a long straight, then stopped not using the brakes.. front caliprs cold, front discs, just a tad of heat... on the rear, the caliper was warm, but the disc was hot... just hot that I could put my fingers on it okay, but still hot... like radiator hot so 60 deg?.....

Anyone else notice this at all?.. rear pad wear maybe?
 
Is this just the result of the semi linked brakes bringing the rears on and less air flow around the disc than the fronts? After a run, my (sold) GSLC would typically have a bit of warmth on the rear disc even without recent application of the rear pedal but more recent front brake lever use.
 
beaver said:
As posted on another thread, I've just bled my rear brake as the pedal was going too far down... Having bled the brake, the pedle now moves about 20mm instead of 50mm.. yipee..
But the rear bake was getting hot before, and it still is... maybe a bit better now than before, but still hot.. anyone else get this?

I did about 3 miles on a long straight, then stopped not using the brakes.. front caliprs cold, front discs, just a tad of heat... on the rear, the caliper was warm, but the disc was hot... just hot that I could put my fingers on it okay, but still hot... like radiator hot so 60 deg?.....

Anyone else notice this at all?.. rear pad wear maybe?
Click to expand...

Are the pads correct for the rear.............
 
Have you cleaned the brake calliper (pistons, pads, pin and pad/calliper interface faces). It’s surprising how a good clean can make them feel like new again and stop them binding. Old tooth brush and soapy water will do the trick.
 
I think its the result of trying to adjust the pedal travel. The adjustment is NOT for pedal adjustment but something called "blow by clearance" I think I read somewhere that there should be about 1mm play. I also read somewhere advising NOT to try adjusting the lear travel using this as it causes brake binding. I think its explained more on advrider.com forums.
 
Accepting that linked brakes often deceive us, has the ABS unit been cycled as part of the bleeding process? Sounds like there may still be air in the system soewhere; if so the pedal biting postion will probably drop again idc.
 
No, pedal still ok.. I didn't cycle it (do you mean via a 911?)... but you could be right although it is rock solid now and much better...
No, I didnt clean it, but did push in the pistons a couple of times, and the bike has never been wet so wont be gunked up.
On the pedal adjustment, it stops on the cylinder now, so its as far as it can go.. can't see you having to hold it off seating by using the frame as a stop?... do other people pedal stop against the frame or is there a slight gap?
Yes, correct pads.. always BMW serviced and at 11K maybe still on the originals?

When I say I went down a long road and stoped without breaking.. I mean I didn't use either brake.. and it was still warm...

Just going to remove the caliper and take it in bits to clean ;)
 
Smogbob said:
Rear brake pics, you can see it touches frame when up, and only can push about 2cm down.



is that touching the frame?... or is there a gap?.. looks like a gap to me??

cleaned it all out.. pushed the pistons in and out, re-assembled it so see how it goes... you get the swoosh, swoosh sound as you spin the wheel as the pads are still in contact slightly.. i can spin the wheel 1 1/4 turns with a push so quite free... push the brake so the pads open right up, it may spin a bit more?... see how it goes..

..............

Just been reading the other posts (tanks for that).. if there isn't a gap, there should be http://static.advrider.com/data/attachments/296/296678-d96dd73c695a74427205f680d6b79806.jpg

1mm.... TBH, it could be bigger as you've hit the bottom of the piston, but if its hitting, thats not good...
Click to expand...
 
The gap when up between the frame is about 4 sheets of paper thick, that is the quickest way I could measure, and down about 20 to 25 mm depending on how hard pushed by hand.
 
thats ok.. so long as its not holding the piston up any.... a gap of any size will do at rest.... just allows the piston to fully seat....

anyway, thats not my problem as I have 1mm there....

Did you try spinning the wheel... see how many rev you get before it stops ;)
 
beaver said:
thats ok.. so long as its not holding the piston up any.... a gap of any size will do at rest.... just allows the piston to fully seat....

anyway, thats not my problem as I have 1mm there....

Did you try spinning the wheel... see how many rev you get before it stops ;)
Click to expand...

With a good spin about half to a 3/4 a turn at the best
 
Smogbob said:
With a good spin about half to a 3/4 a turn at the best
Click to expand...

Thanks for that :) so mine can't be binding that much... I get 1 1/4 spins doing it as hard as I can... and assume you can hear the pads rubbing?...

May jack up the front.. see if they go fully off, or if you can hear them also?
 
beaver said:
Thanks for that :) so mine can't be binding that much... I get 1 1/4 spins doing it as hard as I can... and assume you can hear the pads rubbing?...

May jack up the front.. see if they go fully off, or if you can hear them also?
Click to expand...

Front wheel 1 1/2 turns and you can hear the pads on discs, rear good turn maximum 3/4 and you can clearly hear pads on disc
 
Does you rear get hot ? :augie

just take it for a 3 mile run down the road and don't use your brakes and .................................... :blagblah

Maybe they all do that Sir?...
 
beaver said:
Does you rear get hot ? :augie

just take it for a 3 mile run down the road and don't use your brakes and .................................... :blagblah

Maybe they all do that Sir?...
Click to expand...

Well that will have to wait till Tuesday, storms forecast here tomorrow...........But just thinking the rear will get hotter anyway as the final drive will throw some heat over, and if you are riding fast and pressing down hard, that will get the rear hot as well, even glowing hot if you really press down on it, front is always cooler.
 
yes.. but like I say.. cold when I set off.. didn't brake in 3 miles... stopped using the engine / gears.... so no brakes at all...not even front... and the caliper was warm.. the disc hot?... can only be friction as they are not coming right off?... but how much is normal??
 
beaver said:
yes.. but like I say.. cold when I set off.. didn't brake in 3 miles... stopped using the engine / gears.... so no brakes at all...not even front... and the caliper was warm.. the disc hot?... can only be friction as they are not coming right off?... but how much is normal??
Click to expand...

How much is not normal, you need to just ride the bike a bit more, its not a Harley
 
I'll be at the dealers in the week spinning wheels LOL
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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