PARALEVER BEARING help please

KAR 120C

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Good morning all.

I have an R1150 GSA with 46k miles and taken out for the first time in anger over the weekend just past. On the ride home I noticed squeaky noises from the bike, two up, after a pleasant afternoon. Once home, closer inspection revealed a squeaking 'notchy' feel to the bearings attaching the final drive unit to the prop shaft tube. This appeared to match the noise during the ride.

I would like to ask, does anyone have any comment to make about the greasable bronze bush(ing) 'upgrade' versus the original BMW taper roller bearing installation? Clearly the uprade relies heavily on the greased bearing surfaces as there is no taper adjustment, unlike the OEM BMW bearing. Also, is my bike still rideable with the worn 'notchy' bearings or are they prone to break up very quickly?

Any help will be much appreciated.

Regards,
Michael
 
Good morning all.

I have an R1150 GSA with 46k miles and taken out for the first time in anger over the weekend just past. On the ride home I noticed squeaky noises from the bike, two up, after a pleasant afternoon. Once home, closer inspection revealed a squeaking 'notchy' feel to the bearings attaching the final drive unit to the prop shaft tube. This appeared to match the noise during the ride.

I would like to ask, does anyone have any comment to make about the greasable bronze bush(ing) 'upgrade' versus the original BMW taper roller bearing installation? Clearly the uprade relies heavily on the greased bearing surfaces as there is no taper adjustment, unlike the OEM BMW bearing. Also, is my bike still rideable with the worn 'notchy' bearings or are they prone to break up very quickly?

Any help will be much appreciated.

Regards,
Michael

Google nushings I’ve just ordered a set for mine


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Thank you 'Gothbiker'.

I looked them up, Will investigate further a little later. What have you discovered about them?
 
Google nushings I’ve just ordered a set for mine


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Be sure to heat the bearing fastenings thoroughly before attempting to unscrew, you need to soften the threadlock - or else you risk screwing up the threads (no pun intended and it’s no joke when it happens)



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Be sure to heat the bearing fastenings thoroughly before attempting to unscrew, you need to soften the threadlock - or else you risk screwing up the threads (no pun intended and it’s no joke when it happens)



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I’ve ordered a set for.mine I bought the greaae ones from motorworks and they haven’t lasted too well


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I appreciate the comments thus far. Point taken regarding heating the 'bolt' fastenings. Thank you.

What about the Nushings? Any consensus of opinion about these?

I will revisit this evening. Off to work now!
 
I have a set of the nushings from mouthfulloflake on advrider. not installed yet as mine are still ok, but ive heard good things about them.
 
Mikeyboy rebuilt my final drive 2 years ago and installed a set of the greaseable bushings. Two years on and I've had no problems.
 
I put Nushings on mine. I haven't put a huge amount of mileage on them yet, just a few thousand, but so far they're working well. They only took a week to get to Ireland from USA.
 
My original bmw bearings are now 15 years old and covered 80K miles and are perfectly fine.

Regrease them once a year and keep them perfectly adjusted and i hope i'll never need replace them. .
 
My originals were toast at 11k I had to adjust them at 5k when I got the bike so probably incorrectly fitted in the factory. Second set now on 66k lubed and adjusted once. Hope not to have to replace:D
 
My original bmw bearings are now 15 years old and covered 80K miles and are perfectly fine.

Regrease them once a year and keep them perfectly adjusted and i hope i'll never need replace them. .

Oh WoW!.
I like the idea of OEM bearings on the bike. I am here because they usuually get a bad press. So, my ears pricked up when I read the two comments regarding adjusting them for longevity. Is this something I will find in my service manual? How do you go about adjusting yours? 80,000 miles is much better than all the reports I have read.
 
Oh WoW!.
I like the idea of OEM bearings on the bike. I am here because they usuually get a bad press. So, my ears pricked up when I read the two comments regarding adjusting them for longevity. Is this something I will find in my service manual? How do you go about adjusting yours? 80,000 miles is much better than all the reports I have read.
If you do go for adjusting them, I'd recommend taking it apart, cleaning and refitting the bearings (with new grease of course). Chances are they're shagged, but without getting them out, you won't know.

I think Steptoe has the right idea, to service them. In most cases us mortals forget they're even there until they start squeaking or there's eccessive play. By which time they need replacing!

I used the greased bushes from MW. There was still zero play when I sold the 1150 and that was after at least a couple of years of daily use and a couple of trips to Italy. I also tried to add some grease a couple of times, but very little entered them.



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If you do go for adjusting them, I'd recommend taking it apart, cleaning and refitting the bearings (with new grease of course). Chances are they're shagged, but without getting them out, you won't know.

I think Steptoe has the right idea, to service them. In most cases us mortals forget they're even there until they start squeaking or there's eccessive play. By which time they need replacing!

I used the greased bushes from MW. There was still zero play when I sold the 1150 and that was after at least a couple of years of daily use and a couple of trips to Italy. I also tried to add some grease a couple of times, but very little entered them.



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Thank you for your replies. Unless there are other bearings available I think I have plenty to work on now. All comments very much appreciated. By the way, I wasn't thinking of reusing my existing bearings!

Be seeing you
 
Fitted Nushings to my bike - when I removed the o/e ones circa 50k miles they were utterly donald ducked. Nushings seemed like a good idea and after around 10k miles they're as good as gold, and this involved many thousands of miles in New Zealand on gravel trails two up fully loaded. Reckon they work well.
 
Don't forget, plenty of heat on the pivots when you remove them - that threadlock BMW use is tough stuff. I used the less strong blue stuff when I refitted them and they haven't come loose, but it's worth marking them just in case. Thing that surprised me was how bad the originals werre - looked like they'd come out of the headstock of a bike that had done loads of wheelies.:eek:

P1130032.jpg
 


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